Hello im new here and was wondering what are some good mods for a 1995 Polaris XLT 600?
So far I've got a 121" XTRA 10 suspension and a new cobra 1.25" track and bar risers. next winter im going to do the clutching, Rebuild the engine and put on a SLP or DG exhaust silencer. What else can I do to the engine without harming it? Also how are the SLP or DG silencers for these sleds are they really loud? Thanks!
that is really all you can do, i just got done doing xtra 10 all around on mine and a bar riser. i have a can (not sure of brand) and its pretty loud. clutching is the best thing you can do for yourself, maybe doing different jets on the carbs but that will cause alot of hassle tuning it.
clutching and gearing is about all without spending alot of money. these motors weren't designed to spin past 8500 rpm's as the cranks are the weak link. i would check or replace the needle/seat's in the carb's. and if you replace them use the viton tipped ones. this caused alot of twisted cranks (fuel leaking by them and flooding the crankcase) hydro lock. back in the day. the pto bearing's on the cranks also a problem. if you rebiuld it split the case don't just do a top end. then ask for help on this site when/if you do this as opening up oil holes in the top of crankcase or installing a 4 outlet oil pump and adding a pto oil line is a must. someone here will help alot of guys who know there shit here and will steer you in the right direction. if you are just going to ride it make sure clutches are clean and not worn out this will cause the pto bearing to fail sooner. and don't put a can on it. this is the major reason trails get closed. it also doesn't do anything for perfomance and may lose h.p.? we all need to be smarter about this or we will lose our trail's.
You really don't want to put an aftermarket can on this sled with a stock motor. We dynoed a few aftermarket cans on this sled...including an slp, rumble pack and dynoport....they all lost a lot of hp and low end response. Also all were quite a bit louder but the dynoport can did work well on one of our 600 monoblocks that were ported.
The 95 cranks were pretty weak in that years sled so its a not a good idea to try increasing hp with aftermarket pipes. We had 3 of them and they all had crank failures once you got into the 115 hp range riding them fairly hard.
Imo...these are nice sleds for mostly casual groomed trail riding. Try and find an xc with a liberty twin if your looking for something that can be ridden more aggressive.
Ok so the best bang for my buck would be to clutch it, put a 4 line oil pump in and rebuild the engine and replace the crank.
Do 38mm carbs make a difference? Is there anything else to do the get a little bit more power?
And I'm a pretty aggressive rider, I ride the trails most of the time but do a lot of ditch banging, jumping driveways and powder riding. Is there any thing I could do to strengthen the chassis?
38 mm will make little difference on the older low port xlt motors unless you port them.
Sounds like you have the wrong sled for how you ride. Get yourself an xcsp twin or your going to go broke with the xlt.
Is it worth porting it what are the advantages and disadvantages in doing this?
I would get an edge but can't afford it right now the reason I'm putting the money in to it is because it has to last for another 3-5 years and I love these sleds they seam almost bullet proof, ride really nice and sound awesom!
I've got over 8000 miles on It and 125psi compression and not one problem. And if the sled is set up right there shouldn't be many problems at all. I've herd of some of these sleds with over 12000 miles with nothing being done to the engine except yearly maintenance.
I had a 95 xcr for season and a couple buddies had the xlts. None of those sleds made it through the season without blown up motors, broken skid torque arms and cracked bulkheads. They just don't take the same abuse the later twins did.
If you ride as aggressive as you claim..there is just no way your going to get 8000 miles let alone 12k on these sleds without a whole lot of new parts. My 95 never made 4k before it was trash.
I don't know I've never had a problem in the 2 years I've owned the sled.I must just be lucky. and that's why I'm upgrading everything so I don't have any problems in the future.
youre best off not putting the tripple pipes on it and just doing clutch work. i ride aggressive on mine too but it doesnt matter how lucky you might be its just a matter of time before you catch a culvert or land flat and blow out the shocks or crack the tunnel. im making the best of one of these xlts while i save up money to get a twin but be prepared to be fixing things and dont think that it wont happen to you. ive had my sled for 2 years now and motor wise i left it alone because thats a box of worms you need to just let be. dont listen to the people who tell you to buy an new sled, enjoy this one until it blows up or turns into a yard sale in some field or across a road after jumping it.
Ive seen lots of xlt and xcr mono blocks with 7 to 8000 miles, what ive seen over the years is that alot of the bearing problems start with some rust on the bearing caused by poor summer storage
I agree
I owned 5 XLT's, 3 made it past 10,000 miles, the other 2 were deep into 8000 miles.
My 93 was ported, piped. made past 10,000, so did my 96 piped.
I did hear alot of people having crank problems, I just wasn't one of them.
Thanks for all the info, helps a lot! And It looks like next winter I'm going to rebuild the engine, replace the crank, clutch it, port it and put on some 38mm carbs. Hope it makes a difference.
And what are the risks with any of these upgrades?
There is always a bigger risk of losing a crank....just a matter of when. A known risk factor is your wallet will be lighter with very little in return if any to show for all your efforts. Imo...why waste your time on this project when there are far better sleds to work with. :wall:
Let the kid play, so what if he blows some money,I think that we all dumped money in old stuff along the way, I think its better than the money going for drugs
I have to def agree with you on that! My 94lngtrk & 98sp crankd the big boys n the day at 660' and on long hauls with gearing for the conditions. The 94 loved the Slp's with stingers(not the later canned 1) and the 98Sp liked Aaens. Had 12tho on the 94, yes i rebuilt and welded crank at 6000ish miles, drilled the oil galleys just like the old 500's and cleaned up transfer's and exhaust side. I twisted the piss out a the 94. The 98 id run 9200. Didnt have lot money in them other then time dialin in.
Do a search on this forum for XLT clutching, I found lots of info last winter about proper setup. On my 96 XLT SP I ended up with the stock primary spring (Blue 120-300) and weights (10-MB), an SLP-BLK secondary spring (44-66), and a 42/34 helix. Make sure you shim your belt to .015-.020" clearance also. I am very happy with the response and backshifting with setup - way snappier than stock!
Probably 20 hp if you are going from a single pipe to triple pipes.You will need to rejet and reclutch as well.
If you are adding an mbrp muffler to your single pipe your gain will be zero.
Actually a 95 xlt with triple aaen pipes made 18 hp on our dyno. Don't even bother buying an aftermarket can for a stock 95 xlt. You won't gain a thing. Only a good aggressive port job with at least 38mm carbs will.
Just my 2 cents worth. I have a XLT SKS 580 triple with over 11.000 miles on it all stock and the engine has never been touched. Planning on having it re-built this summer before I’m stuck on the trail somewhere. Re did a lot this summer but kept it all stock
Good day all just starting to work on my 94 xlt 580 triple before the upcoming season. This year I’m replacing the P85 Primary spring with a blue one. I’ll look to see if the weights and rollers need replacing as well. I bought a black secondary spring and will be replacing the buttons. Not sure if I’ll the money yet to rebuild the engine like I planned. I was wondering can I replace the jack shaft bearing without taking out the engine? I can’t find anything on it .
Oh yeah I also bought a new 42/34 helix. I also saw that “ off-road toys” say something about adding shims for belt alignement. “Make sure you shim your belt to .015-.020" clearance”. How is this done and where can I buy the spacers?
Their stating the shimming for the primary clutch. You need special tools to disassemble it. Basically, using a new belt, the sheaves need to be shimmed with .015''-.020'' clearance, so when the clutch engages you don't get a bog...your starting out in low range.
Good day all just starting to work on my 94 xlt 580 triple before the upcoming season. This year I’m replacing the P85 Primary spring with a blue one. I’ll look to see if the weights and rollers need replacing as well. I bought a black secondary spring and will be replacing the buttons. Not sure if I’ll the money yet to rebuild the engine like I planned. I was wondering can I replace the jack shaft bearing without taking out the engine? I can’t find anything on it .
Not sure what black spring you bought, but the slp one for this sled hasn't been available in many years. Other than the stock spring, any other spring won't perform well.
As far as replacing the jackshaft driven clutch side bearing...you don't need to pull the engine. I'm getting to think this might be far beyond your skill level. I'd get a service manual at the least before you end up with more than you can chew.
I forgot to even bring up the primary clutch may need re-blancing, plus a huge 4' torque wrench is needed to reinstall the spider, and lock nut, let alone this clutch may need a total rebuild if all original. At any rate this job imo isn't for a beginner.
I just want to make sure I understand that if I replace only the primary spring ( currently blue and replacing with a new blue) and going from a red secondary spring and stock helix to a black secondary spring and 42/34 helix that i will need to shim my primary clutch?
Check installed "new" belt side clearance with a feeler gage.
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