Salvage yards.

 

Surprised you didn't find a much newer low mileage sled here in new england. This is going to end up a money pit. Have you looked into just the condition of the clutches, and all the bearing's in this sled?

 

Dude, they are all money pits. This thing will get a handful of ice fishing trips and maybe 2-3 short trial rides a year.

I paid $500 for it, and if my son stuffs it into a tree or blows it up in a year or two then I won’t care.

This is why it is a fan sled, and not all modded up. It was owned by an old man who bought it new. Runs great, starts easy (1-2 pulls, battery is dead), moves forward and back like it should…what else do you want to put a 12 year old on to learn? These fan sleds have long legs when they are taken care of and not beaten. Look at the pictures, does that look like a beaten sled. Damn near 30 years old with original track/seat/cowl/motor. Clearly it’s been cared for and stored out of the weather. It does need a couple things, but all minor.

I found plenty of 99-01 sleds, lots of liquids (no way), lots of hacked and modded sleds (cans, swapped suspensions, destroyed seats), a few unmolested rigs in good shape that were priced like gold bullion.

If I get 2-3 good years out of it and he still likes riding I’ll invest in the next level machine (and I’ll go newer).

 

Good looking machine, especially for a youngster's first. I'm building an '01 XCF with a 488 fan for my 12 year old for his first machine, kind of hard finding motivation with all this rain in NY.

For the hood springs, not sure if the are necessary, as long as you are gentle putting the hood up. You can get aircraft cable and possibly crimp on ends from a hardware store for the cable. For the key switch, unless if you have to have the electric start (maybe save yourself a battery purchase), you can just leave it as is and use the kill switch.

For skis, without question, polaris plastic skis ala late 90s and early 2000s XCs, night and day difference in weight and performance. I have several sets in the attic, if you happen to be in the upstate NY area at all. Good luck with it, my first sleds were $200-300 early '70s ski doos, so a $500 reasonably late model Indy is quite a first sled compared with the old days!

 

Yeah, rain like crazy here in New England too. We’re still swing 50’s during the day and barely dipping below freezing at night. Like I mentioned, I probably guaranteed we won’t have much/any snow…lol.

For the hood cables (I have the spring, it’s the cable that’s broken), I found a cable with ends on it on eBay so I’ll give that a try! Already replaced the ignition switch, so now that’s working as it should. New battery is in, cleaned up all the connections….motor spins right over and fires right up nice!

I have a set of new plastic skis and carbides, just waiting for my son to not be around so I can work out in the shop without him walking in and seeing the machine…lol.

Funny thing, my first sled was a 1974 Cat, buried under snow and leaves in the woods behind my neighbors house. Paid $100 for it, rolled my sleeves up and wrenched it until it ran. I love that old junker….rode it all over the place and had a blast!

Im excited for my son to see this thing, and excited to get out on some rides with him!

I just bought myself a sled tonight….much newer, a sled I’ll had until it’s dead (or I’m done with it).

 

The exterior of the sled may look good, but clutch components, and all bearings you can't see may not be in such great condition unless their checked out even if the engine run's fine. Usually thats the stuff that get neglected until too late.

 

Many hardware stores have the small diameter cable that you need for the hood and also have the ferrels and crimp tool. I just put a small loop in the ends and don't worry about having the factory style end. Just measure the broken one and build yourself one. Too often a cable from one model will not work on another model due to different engines and chassis configurations.

 

Yeah, you can make those hood cables from some stainless aircraft cabling but its usually not cheap, while the cabling is inexpensive, companies have a minimum just for shipping that can cost more than the cable length needed. The ferrels are cheap. Your better off finding a used pre-made cable from a parted out sled.

 

Well, I got a chance to work on the sled while my son is away (which has been tough to do lately).

Got the new skis and carbides on, plugs, battery, chain case oil change, dropped the rear of the skid and replaced the upper bogies, greased all the skid zerks. Got it all back together, then broke out the heat gun and pulled all the old Maine reg stickers off.

Now I’m thinking it might need springs in the rear. The suspension moves up and down, but it doesn’t bounce back when you press it down. Looking at options now.

 

Well, I got a chance to work on the sled while my son is away (which has been tough to do lately).

Got the new skis and carbides on, plugs, battery, chain case oil change, dropped the rear of the skid and replaced the upper bogies, greased all the skid zerks. Got it all back together, then broke out the heat gun and pulled all the old Maine reg stickers off.

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Now I’m thinking it might need springs in the rear. The suspension moves up and down, but it doesn’t bounce back when you press it down. Looking at options now.

Check the rear track shock also. I've seen everything from frozen crosss-hafts, broken/weak torsion springs to a bad hydraulic shock in those sleds. The skid needs to be removed, and the suspension gone through.

 

Great first sled for your boy, he will become a lifetime hardcoresledder all because of that sled. Nice job super dad!! Smiles from ear to ear coming your way shortly. your boy will never forget that moment, CONGRATULATIONS to both of you and many happy years ahead sledding together.

 

I found a local guy parting out a 99 XC 500, he has the skid and wants $100 for it. Would this be an “Edge” skid or an Extra-10? In either case, would it require a track replacement (does it need a longer track for the swap)?

 

Exta 10. You would have to drill and relocate mounting brackets or suspension won’t work right. I converted my 92 500 SP years ago. Like Too Slow said those shocks are probably shot. They are hard to find too. A buddy has an Indy Lite 340 that needs one. Yours looks pretty good. His was a free pos that sat for 10 years. Rings were stuck, crank bearings growling when I got it running. He just wanted a yard sled for his kids. He put a voltage regulator in and that it money wise! Bearings quieted up after a few hrs. Last year he took a 70 mile ride on it😳. I couldnt believe it! Still fires up and goes. They are pretty tough I guess. So I think yours will be fine for what your purpose. Best of luck with it👍

 

Does anyone have a good clear copy of JBShocks diagram for the XTRA-10 swap? It looks like the website is gone, and all I can find are sort of grainy copies. I printed one, it is still tough to read. Even if someone just has the measurements, i will write them on the paper. Just wanting not to make a mistake when poking new holes...lol

 

If you go to the polaris general discussion forum page...theres a thread right there that the measurements are all listed.

 

 

There are 2 other diagrams for the 136 track length and the 133.5 track. I assumed that you were considering a 121"

 

here's the 136".

 

JB shocks didn't have a diagram for a 133.5 track so I took measurements from a 1997 XLT RMK.

 

Long time indy trail 488 fan owner here. Looks like that was stored inside and hopefully away from small rodents but the best adivice I got with my sled was to check under the fan shroud every year. Sure enough, while I have never found actual mice, most years there is crap from them begining to build a nest. its under the side you cant' see. many fan engines have died over heating due to the critters packing crap in there.
Also, on your sled. annually check for vacuum leaks at the main seals and around carb boots. I do this with a combination of starting fluid or brake spray and more recently using propane.

 

Nuge
I saw in your other thread someone mentioned the intank fuel line. Its an easy thing to overlook. They make crazy expensive line designed to be immersed in fuel. I have used 3/16th tygon. while it is too small for the application. if you put ends in boiling water and use some lube you can get it to compression fit on the thru tank fitting and brass line weight/screen. This alleviates having to use a clamp which does not fit thru intank fitting. Polaris uses some sort of compression ring over the barb, some use thin brass or stainless wire in place of a clamp. The tyvek starts getting hard around the 10 year mark. I would not use conventional black line or the crap cheap blue line.

 

I wouldn’t go smaller on a fuel line than stock. Less fuel volume to carbs. If you pop the grommet out of the tank slide fuel line through grommet and then installclamp and filter. Then lube the grommet and pop it back in. Then you don’t risk tearing the grommet.

 

Grassbound
I don't have one here to measure but I think the inside diameter of the brass intank weight/screen is around 3/16th so that is your choke point anyway. I don't think you will have any problems with fuel flow on a small displacement fanner in any case. I don't know what grommet youre talking about. I haven't come across one on the couple of indys and evolved chasis that I have worked on.
All that said. I have wondered how the big 700 and 800 get enough fuel flow out of one little intank line. I assume the big sleds use the same single intank line. same intank line/weight screen.

 

The grommet is the rubberbushing that the line goes through into the tank. So if the filter is 3/16” you’re good to go with 3/16” tygon. I was thinking you went to smaller than stock.

 

Guys
This was bugging me so I dug around and found a polaris stock intank line weight/screen. they are made of brass. the inside diameter measured with cheap calipers is .180 thousandths or right around 3/16th.