I went with 136x1.25 Ripsaw on my ZR800. I have no need for studs as I ride the trails and fresh powder, no ice racing for me. I was also leaning towards 8" wheels, but even my dealer said the "bang for the buck factor" just isn't there. There are a lot of other things I could do for $300-400 and get more performance. I guess if a guy is racing every week for title/money, they may help. But I don't think I would see a great advantage to having them.
136 BY 1??? OR 1.25???
Well its time to order up the extensions, wheels, and track but I am struglling
to decide which lug hieght to go with on the ZR 900. I don't want to sacrifice any
penetration of the studs for the informal ice racing. Also should I go with the big
wheels or is there not that big of difference?? I mostly trail ride and off weekends head to Anchor bay.
to decide which lug hieght to go with on the ZR 900. I don't want to sacrifice any
penetration of the studs for the informal ice racing. Also should I go with the big
wheels or is there not that big of difference?? I mostly trail ride and off weekends head to Anchor bay.
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Yeah thats kind of what I was thinking but now is the time to decide because the extensions can be purchased either way so it would only be the cost of the wheels.
I put a 1.25 Ripsaw on my ZL 600 and did not stud it. I love it. Its far lighter and gets so much more traction on snow than my 1-inch stocker with studs that it was like adding 10-20 horse power. Amazing handling, acceleration and braking improvement (except on ice). In icy conditions I did have to slow down more for corners but it remained very predictable on ice.
Definately go with the 136" ripsaw 1.25, then stud her up with some 1.375 picks for the Ice. You won't be dissappointed.
I agree: Go with the Ripsaw, and if you want to ride ice, add studs.
I went with the 8" wheels and would recommend it. I figure you've got more weight to turn with the longer track, so make it a bit easier to turn it with the bigger wheels.
If you are going to go with studs, make sure you extend the coolers!!
I went with the 8" wheels and would recommend it. I figure you've got more weight to turn with the longer track, so make it a bit easier to turn it with the bigger wheels.
If you are going to go with studs, make sure you extend the coolers!!
i am on anchor bay every weekend in the winter and trust me unless you plan on going out there just to ride around you need picks or chizles the trail stud thing just dont work i dont know what kind of other riding you do but if its just trail i would go with the 1" track and then when you head out to the bay pull out some studs and put in picks. jmo
The Ripsaw is a great on and off trail track but if hard launches on ice are a priority I'd go no longer than a 1" lug with 1.200" chisels or chisels+pics(4 per row). Better yet, shop around for a good used speed track and swap when you want to play. After you've changed tracks a few times you can do it quicker than you can change out 216 studs-especially if you have to index the chisels. If you're running 660' on the bay and can hook up on the launch you'll want to drop the gearing anyways(22/41 on the low side to 23/40 on the high side) and it's alot easier to "slam" the rear skid with it out. As far as the rear idlers, I recommend going with the Arctic Cat 8" wheels, axle and spacers from the Mountain Cat. The whole setup with 4 wheels can be had for around $125. I've got all the part #'s if you need them. The larger idlers will help make up for the efficiency you lose with the longer track. With 216 Gold Diggers(1.325") in my 136" Ripsaw I could still fully shift out the clutches(stock gearing-26/41) on glare ice in under 2000'. :div20:
i'm with jefro 56. cats 8 inch mountain cat wheels are lighter than most aluminum ones. i ran the 2004 mountain cat 900 set up with 3 wheels. i got a good deal from tracks usa when i bought the extensions and track like 16 bucks each in black and 30-40 bucks for the rear wheel set up. take a look-not trick but functional.
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jefro56 If I decide to go with an extra speed track would you still stick with the 1 incher or do you think the 1.250 W/ 156 studs for the trails. I'm thinking ive got a couple of good 121 tracks and an extra skid frame maybe 121 would work with chisels for the lake.
Shuttlevalve: The 3 wheel setup is the way to go for off trail in the U.P. but I added the 4th wheel by using another nylon axle spacer and cutting the aluminum tube spacer the same amount as the width of the nylon spacer and the wheel bearing. The 4 wheel setup gives me better stud penetration on hardpack and ice and is stronger for jumping and hammering it down whooped out trails. The wheels seem to be holding up well-unlike alot of the billet wheels that are having trouble with the rubber separating from the aluminum. I actually get alot of compliments on the wheels and 136" conversion ......" wow, looks factory".
Nastcat: I would definately go with a 1 1/4" track on the trail or even 1 1/2" if I was going off trail and didn't want to stud. A 1" track won't harness a 900's torque on a soft trail worth a darn. As far as studding, for just trail use 156 down the center(3 per row) would be the ticket but if you're going to use the track on the bay also you'll want to go 4 per row and stud the outer belts too. And sure, a 121" will work on the ice but with good bite and aggressive clutching you'll have to be careful you don't wear it on the launch. A 136" will be much easier to setup for a hard leave. I'd say sell the 121" tracks and skid and use the money on a .540" lug drag track and get used to holeshoting well setup F-7's.
Nastcat: I would definately go with a 1 1/4" track on the trail or even 1 1/2" if I was going off trail and didn't want to stud. A 1" track won't harness a 900's torque on a soft trail worth a darn. As far as studding, for just trail use 156 down the center(3 per row) would be the ticket but if you're going to use the track on the bay also you'll want to go 4 per row and stud the outer belts too. And sure, a 121" will work on the ice but with good bite and aggressive clutching you'll have to be careful you don't wear it on the launch. A 136" will be much easier to setup for a hard leave. I'd say sell the 121" tracks and skid and use the money on a .540" lug drag track and get used to holeshoting well setup F-7's.
:div20: quote=indytriple,Aug 24 2005, 10:59 AM]
Definately go with the 136" ripsaw 1.25, then stud her up with some 1.375 picks for the Ice. You won't be dissappointed.
<div align="right">index.php?act=findpost&pid=845956
[/quote]
:div20:
ripsaw & 8" wheels
Definately go with the 136" ripsaw 1.25, then stud her up with some 1.375 picks for the Ice. You won't be dissappointed.
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[/quote]
:div20:
ripsaw & 8" wheels
[/quote]Originally posted by shock doc@Aug 27 2005, 07:13 AM
:div20: quote=indytriple,Aug 24 2005, 10:59 AM]
Definately go with the 136" ripsaw 1.25, then stud her up with some 1.375 picks for the Ice. You won't be dissappointed.
<div align="right">index.php?act=findpost&pid=845956
:div20:
Who makes pics or chisels longer than 1.200"????????And I'd start worrying about the studs folding over at that length.........
jefro56 hows about them part #'s looks like a good set up. I think the speed track is the the way I'm going to go W/ripsaw for the trails.
Nastcat, try these:
8" Idler Wheel-Black----------2604-524 (Need 4 total) #34 in diagram
8" Idler Wheel-Green---------2604-525 #40
8" Idler Wheel-Red------------2604-526 #40
Axle-----------------------------2604-283 (1 required) #33
Spacer--------------------------1604-940 (1 required) #32
Bushing,Adjuster---------------2604-260 (4 required) #35
Screw, Cap---------------------8020-223 (2 required) #41
Washer--------------------------0623-664 (2 required) #12
Cap,Idler Wheel----------------1604-952 (2 required) #42
If someone wants to run a 3 wheel setup, they would only need 3 of the Bushing,Adjusters and add one Washer---0623-921 (#31 in diagram)
Remember, for a 4 wheel setup you must cut the spacer(1604-940) the width of the bearing, Bushing,Adjuster, and the washer(.109").
I'll be pulling my skid in the next week or so and I'll measure my spacer and give you the length.
Also, you will definately need to extend your coolers for stud clearance. I used 1" aluminum square tubing and had it welded after I removed the factory "end plate" and before installing the new extension. I cut 2 extra pieces of sq. tubing the correct length if you want them. I live just south of Metro Airport.
8" Idler Wheel-Black----------2604-524 (Need 4 total) #34 in diagram
8" Idler Wheel-Green---------2604-525 #40
8" Idler Wheel-Red------------2604-526 #40
Axle-----------------------------2604-283 (1 required) #33
Spacer--------------------------1604-940 (1 required) #32
Bushing,Adjuster---------------2604-260 (4 required) #35
Screw, Cap---------------------8020-223 (2 required) #41
Washer--------------------------0623-664 (2 required) #12
Cap,Idler Wheel----------------1604-952 (2 required) #42
If someone wants to run a 3 wheel setup, they would only need 3 of the Bushing,Adjusters and add one Washer---0623-921 (#31 in diagram)
Remember, for a 4 wheel setup you must cut the spacer(1604-940) the width of the bearing, Bushing,Adjuster, and the washer(.109").
I'll be pulling my skid in the next week or so and I'll measure my spacer and give you the length.
Also, you will definately need to extend your coolers for stud clearance. I used 1" aluminum square tubing and had it welded after I removed the factory "end plate" and before installing the new extension. I cut 2 extra pieces of sq. tubing the correct length if you want them. I live just south of Metro Airport.
Pulled my skid yesterday to send shocks out for rebuild. Spacer for rear axle(1604-940) needs to be cut down to 4 3/8" for 4 wheel setup. :div20:
[/quote]Originally posted by jefro56@Aug 29 2005, 08:52 PM
Nastcat, try these:
8" Idler Wheel-Black----------2604-524 (Need 4 total) #34 in diagram
8" Idler Wheel-Green---------2604-525 #40
8" Idler Wheel-Red------------2604-526 #40
Axle-----------------------------2604-283 (1 required) #33
Spacer--------------------------1604-940 (1 required) #32
Bushing,Adjuster---------------2604-260 (4 required) #35
Screw, Cap---------------------8020-223 (2 required) #41
Washer--------------------------0623-664 (2 required) #12
Cap,Idler Wheel----------------1604-952 (2 required) #42
If someone wants to run a 3 wheel setup, they would only need 3 of the Bushing,Adjusters and add one Washer---0623-921 (#31 in diagram)
Remember, for a 4 wheel setup you must cut the spacer(1604-940) the width of the bearing, Bushing,Adjuster, and the washer(.109").
I'll be pulling my skid in the next week or so and I'll measure my spacer and give you the length.
Also, you will definately need to extend your coolers for stud clearance. I used 1" aluminum square tubing and had it welded after I removed the factory "end plate" and before installing the new extension. I cut 2 extra pieces of sq. tubing the correct length if you want them. I live just south of Metro Airport.
<div align="right">index.php?act=findpost&pid=852486
when you say extend coolers do you mean back towards the rear of tunnel?
Yes, you need the crossover hose at the very rear of the tunnel so the studs don't damage it when the suspension reaches the end of it's travel. The extra cooling won't hurt, either.
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
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