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Discussion Starter #1
Let me start by saying I have searched this forum and many others like it looking for answers. I have a 17 9000 Ltd with qs3r shocks all around. It has a 129 track With 180 1.50 studs. Cat skis with 6 inches of shaper carbide. I have a hurricane stock muffler bundle with 225,240 and 270 horse power available. This is a fun sled when going straight but not in the twisty trails. If I have it set up to hold the line and turn the steering is very heavy and it darts badly On hard pack snow. So I tried different skis ( 5.7 pilots,6.9 pilots and even Yamaha tuner skis With snow trackers) and still no improvement. Still heavy steering with a little less darting So I added a bill Mohr front Shock spring and that’s not much different than my cat spring I can lighten the steering by doing this and adjusting the rear suspension but then it’s got such a bad push in the corners I feel like I’m going to hit oncoming traffic or a tree. With the light steering setup I accelerate to the corner, brake hard to set the skis, slide all my weight (230) up on the gas tank and coast thru the turn. The light steering setup also produces to much transfer. Any gas in the corner and I wheelie. My friends with 137 inch tracks have no problems with this. Change the snow or temps to above freezing and it’s push almost all the time. I have been on their sleds and it’s clear that they are much different,it’s easy to call them as some of the best handling sleds on the snow. I’m starting to wonder if I just can’t ride anymore. On the last ride this past year I took my other sled a Polaris pro s 800. What a nice trail sled that is Light steering no push and easy to keep pace on a very spirited ride. This is not the sled I want to ride, it is missing to much motor. Anyone else with this kind of struggle that can give me some direction?
 

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Ski fix
Stock Arctic Cat skis...

Runners...
Snow Trackers.

End of story.
Almost like it has power steering.
Very sure does in the corners and corners like it's on rails.

Personally I run the aggressive set. They make a semi aggressive too.
Set up per Snow Tracker recommendations.
Instructions are on their site.
Zero darting.

Money well spent.

Side note.
I'm not a fan of the Yamaha skis and neither are many others.

I hope this helps.

Nice sled you've got there. You'll love it when it handles as it should.

My turbo is a 137 though.

My Wifes 14 ZR 7000 is a 129"
Handles nice.

True story.


Jeff B In Maine

Sent via my US Cellular rotary dial device.
 

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I agree Cat ski’s and Snowtrackers set correctly. My opinion on aggressive vs semi aggressive is directly related to how heavily studded you are. That’s just my opinion. Once set up this way or even now if you find its over steering and the rear end is coming out an easy fix is just stud carefully the outside belt. I know lots say you shouldn’t stud the outer belts but tracks don’t last that long either way. I also always shim my ski’s and that also improves steering effort and bite on ice as well as darting even on a single runner carbide. Think of the shimming this way because your riding more directly under the spindle it allows more done force ( weight) but still keeps the steering lite.
 

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With mine I tried them all, including snow trackers and liked best stock cat skis with 8" woody slim jim doolys. I have a 137 with studs and boosted with similar HP. I have zero darting, light steering. You made no mention of your limiter straps, I had to pull mine two holes tighter before it would stop pushing through corners. Before I did this same thing as you, would have to coast through corners. If you wheelie under acceleration you should probably set your coupler blocks in the back for less transfer if you haven't already.
 

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2014 ZR8000lxr 19-20 mileage = 904.5
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I have sno trackers and they are by far the best thing on any of my 3 Arctic Cat sleds I've owned. Skidoo had it right with the Precision skis with the two outer skags and the center one. That setup just plain works and eliminates darting. The SnoTrackers are our best choice. Sure, it's got some heavy steering but that allows it to corner much better. And those SnoTrackers just last forever. I'm thinking these things will last as long as I own this sled. I might have 5,000 mi on them now at least and probably more like 7,000 as i didn't even put them on they were on here before i got it at 4,000 mi.

Steve
 

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Putting in the higher rate front track shock made your issue worse, as its a stronger spring.
Pull limiters up 2 holes.
Run 8" woodys carbides.
Play with front shock springs.
QS3 front shocks set at #2...…#1 changes the dynamic of steering a lot and makes it much easier than #2 but less front end bite as well.
 

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Yeah what he said.....More carbide or less studs....tighten limiter.
Im also a huge fan of USI triple threat skis on everything.Any dooly style carbide will push like crazy in loose or especially packy snow so Im not a fan.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I’ve tightened the straps and got heavier steering but less likely to push in corners. will try pulling the outer studs to balance my front and rear better. Last question. If I loosen my front track spring but pull up on the limiter straps haven’t I limited the shock by doing this and lessoned the effects of a loose spring?
 

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No.The limiter is the final determining factor on the front track shock for what is happening when you apply throttle.
If the sled turns while it is rolling but starts to push when you apply throttle,shortening the limiter strap will help to keep more weight on the skis.
Stiffening the rear spring and /or shock will also help keep the skis planted for a longer period of time when you first get into the throttle but thats fine tuning.Plus it can have negative effects on the ride when the trail gets rough.
 

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With mine I tried them all, including snow trackers and liked best stock cat skis with 8" woody slim jim doolys. I have a 137 with studs and boosted with similar HP. I have zero darting, light steering. You made no mention of your limiter straps, I had to pull mine two holes tighter before it would stop pushing through corners. Before I did this same thing as you, would have to coast through corners. If you wheelie under acceleration you should probably set your coupler blocks in the back for less transfer if you haven't already.
I run this exact set up on my boosted 129 for 8000 miles. Very light steering, a little push but absolutely NO darting. No wheelies. The downside to doolys is that if you have a lot of road crossings you can potentially get a rock stuck in them. You will know immediately when this happens.....
 

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Yeah what he said.....More carbide or less studs....tighten limiter.
Im also a huge fan of USI triple threat skis on everything.Any dooly style carbide will push like crazy in loose or especially packy snow so Im not a fan.
Bingo

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Thanks...
I was going to ask the same question .

I'm thinking it similar to the Bill Moor Stingray Spring.
Stiffer altogether.



Jeff B In Maine

Sent via my US Cellular rotary dial device.
What do you think Jeff?
 
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