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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought a 01 mtn cat 1000 this fall, with stock 144x2 track. Rode it a couple of times so far and not dialed in yet. Not totally worried but still puzzled.

It has D&D pipes with stingers, mild ported cylinders, stock heads. D&D power breather with gutted airbox and a tempaflow and VF3 reeds. Running 430 jetting, I know it's rich, not a lot of carbon on the piston, more centered area. But it wasn't super cold over new years either. Will probably drop to 420's. Needles are in the 4th hole and I increased pilots from 35 to 40 but not sure I needed to. It starts good and idles ok and has not fouled a plug, I've got 250 miles on it so far.

When I first got I took the chain case cover off and discovered 20/39 gearing and thought that wasn't stock, so put 23/40 in but now think it was stock and I'm not shifting out either, haven't had a chance to run a half mile but think it's geared to tall, so going to run 22/41 for next trip. I'm still working on the clutching but know it's gonna change when I gear it down.

My big issue is it has an occasional backfire through the exhaust, sometimes one after another and then nothing and then it does it. More low speed but also heard it in the mid. First thought was the kill switch as they are known to have issues. Unplugged it and still doing it. The other issue is it seems to sometimes run great and pull upwards of 9000 rpm and other times on same day only run low 8000's. I suppose it's possible it's my taller gearing and the lack of the motor to be able to pull the rpm when rolling along and floor it. I know I need more testing time to sort this out but the backfiring has me puzzled.

Any suggestions?
 

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congrats. on the tcat. ibought one last year and like it.20-39 is stock gearing for mountain cats mine has 136x2 track.im thinking of trying 23-39. your 20-39 gearing is for 5000 feet+. this gearing spins out of the hole too much.irun 400 jets at 2300 feet [central alberta] .the popping could be your carb freezing safty switch [not sure tech term]. if you squeeze the throttlelever crooked the eng will cut out.mine did that took awhile to figure out.may need newlever bushings
hope this helps.
 

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I bought a 01 mtn cat 1000 this fall, with stock 144x2 track. Rode it a couple of times so far and not dialed in yet. Not totally worried but still puzzled.

It has D&D pipes with stingers, mild ported cylinders, stock heads. D&D power breather with gutted airbox and a tempaflow and VF3 reeds. Running 430 jetting, I know it's rich, not a lot of carbon on the piston, more centered area. But it wasn't super cold over new years either. Will probably drop to 420's. Needles are in the 4th hole and I increased pilots from 35 to 40 but not sure I needed to. It starts good and idles ok and has not fouled a plug, I've got 250 miles on it so far.

When I first got I took the chain case cover off and discovered 20/39 gearing and thought that wasn't stock, so put 23/40 in but now think it was stock and I'm not shifting out either, haven't had a chance to run a half mile but think it's geared to tall, so going to run 22/41 for next trip. I'm still working on the clutching but know it's gonna change when I gear it down.

My big issue is it has an occasional backfire through the exhaust, sometimes one after another and then nothing and then it does it. More low speed but also heard it in the mid. First thought was the kill switch as they are known to have issues. Unplugged it and still doing it. The other issue is it seems to sometimes run great and pull upwards of 9000 rpm and other times on same day only run low 8000's. I suppose it's possible it's my taller gearing and the lack of the motor to be able to pull the rpm when rolling along and floor it. I know I need more testing time to sort this out but the backfiring has me puzzled.

Any suggestions?[/b]
Check your Throttle Position Sensor. It is the little plastic pieces under your Throttle. If they wear out, they make the sled do what you are saying.
 

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I bought a 01 mtn cat 1000 this fall, with stock 144x2 track. Rode it a couple of times so far and not dialed in yet. Not totally worried but still puzzled.

It has D&D pipes with stingers, mild ported cylinders, stock heads. D&D power breather with gutted airbox and a tempaflow and VF3 reeds. Running 430 jetting, I know it's rich, not a lot of carbon on the piston, more centered area. But it wasn't super cold over new years either. Will probably drop to 420's. Needles are in the 4th hole and I increased pilots from 35 to 40 but not sure I needed to. It starts good and idles ok and has not fouled a plug, I've got 250 miles on it so far.

When I first got I took the chain case cover off and discovered 20/39 gearing and thought that wasn't stock, so put 23/40 in but now think it was stock and I'm not shifting out either, haven't had a chance to run a half mile but think it's geared to tall, so going to run 22/41 for next trip. I'm still working on the clutching but know it's gonna change when I gear it down.

My big issue is it has an occasional backfire through the exhaust, sometimes one after another and then nothing and then it does it. More low speed but also heard it in the mid. First thought was the kill switch as they are known to have issues. Unplugged it and still doing it. The other issue is it seems to sometimes run great and pull upwards of 9000 rpm and other times on same day only run low 8000's. I suppose it's possible it's my taller gearing and the lack of the motor to be able to pull the rpm when rolling along and floor it. I know I need more testing time to sort this out but the backfiring has me puzzled.

Any suggestions?[/b]
you could be over jetted and the eng could be loading up inlow throttle, then needs a couple of braaaaps to clean out, thus change in rpm
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm under the impression that when you unplug the kill switch wires at the handlebars that also eliminates the throttle safety switch? It looks that way to me. I did take the pin out of the trottle and the bushing and all are good. I am going to unplug all the electrical wiring and blow it out and put die electric grease in there. Also my buddy has a good CDI for me to try next time out as well. The backfiring in general is not noticable other than hearing it. At first I thought I was hitting rocks with the carbides but have since realized it's a quick little backfire so you don't notice it in the tach. Thanks for the confirmation on the gearing, my buddy has one and he said his had 20/39 and is running 22/41 so that is the direction I'm going from 23/40 which should help the shifting out.

Is it possible for a TPS unit to be intermitten with issues? In the performance manual it says when it doesn't work it goes into fail safe which I'm sure is lack of advance in the timing. The way I was describing how it didn't always want to pull the rpm had me thinking that was the issue, now wondering if tall gearing and poor clutching are more the issue. More test time needed! Where is the snow.

Thanks for all the comments.
 

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I'm under the impression that when you unplug the kill switch wires at the handlebars that also eliminates the throttle safety switch? It looks that way to me. I did take the pin out of the trottle and the bushing and all are good. I am going to unplug all the electrical wiring and blow it out and put die electric grease in there. Also my buddy has a good CDI for me to try next time out as well. The backfiring in general is not noticable other than hearing it. At first I thought I was hitting rocks with the carbides but have since realized it's a quick little backfire so you don't notice it in the tach. Thanks for the confirmation on the gearing, my buddy has one and he said his had 20/39 and is running 22/41 so that is the direction I'm going from 23/40 which should help the shifting out.

Is it possible for a TPS unit to be intermitten with issues? In the performance manual it says when it doesn't work it goes into fail safe which I'm sure is lack of advance in the timing. The way I was describing how it didn't always want to pull the rpm had me thinking that was the issue, now wondering if tall gearing and poor clutching are more the issue. More test time needed! Where is the snow.

Thanks for all the comments.[/b]
if you have stock clutches they will be set up for mountains. my dealer changed mine.he used to race these sleds so he putin parts for best accell. 62/50 helix red spring and purple primary with58 wts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
if you have stock clutches they will be set up for mountains. my dealer changed mine.he used to race these sleds so he putin parts for best accell. 62/50 helix red spring and purple primary with58 wts.[/b]
We're going to run 10-66 weights and grind the tips, pulls much harder in the mid range. Springs and helix's are plenty so we'll come up with something.
 

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I'm under the impression that when you unplug the kill switch wires at the handlebars that also eliminates the throttle safety switch? It looks that way to me. I did take the pin out of the trottle and the bushing and all are good. I am going to unplug all the electrical wiring and blow it out and put die electric grease in there. Also my buddy has a good CDI for me to try next time out as well. The backfiring in general is not noticable other than hearing it. At first I thought I was hitting rocks with the carbides but have since realized it's a quick little backfire so you don't notice it in the tach. Thanks for the confirmation on the gearing, my buddy has one and he said his had 20/39 and is running 22/41 so that is the direction I'm going from 23/40 which should help the shifting out.

Is it possible for a TPS unit to be intermitten with issues? In the performance manual it says when it doesn't work it goes into fail safe which I'm sure is lack of advance in the timing. The way I was describing how it didn't always want to pull the rpm had me thinking that was the issue, now wondering if tall gearing and poor clutching are more the issue. More test time needed! Where is the snow.

Thanks for all the comments.[/b]
WHO SAYS WERE BUDDYS?????????? Got the cdi sitting on the bench when ever you want to come over an fetch it.
 

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I know it could be alot of things but i would also check your flotes if your carbs are already off . Some times they will stick . I would also check exaust temps/cylinder temps and make sure your cylinders are all building temp/heat .
 

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I had some backfiring that caused my gear that runs my counter balancer to break after i got it back together i tried to start it and i had no spark turns out i had stator problem!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I had some backfiring that caused my gear that runs my counter balancer to break after i got it back together i tried to start it and i had no spark turns out i had stator problem![/b]
Well that is my issue after all this messing around. Took it up north as a second sled, went for a spin and ran like crap, only pulled ~8000 and no power. Made it back to the truck and died. No spark. Now that I'm home tonight I pulled it over without the plugs and one or two would fire lightly but all three and no spark. The headlight does light up when rolling over so thinking it can be rewound. Anyone have a stator (good one)? All the 570 fan motors take the same thing and 2000-02 zrt800's and all big 1000's. Maybe we'll get this thing making the hey before the winter is over yet. I will say one day out in the field behind our house in December it just ripped across the field but since then it could barely pull itself. So glad it finally puked so I can get it running right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
rmstator.com got one there for 200.00 with 1 year warranty[/b]
Well I got a good used one off ebay. To my surprise it wasn't the same one I took out. So after consulting my buddy the sled had a 99 stator and flywheel on the 01 CDI. Can anyone say not compatible? I borrowed the correct flywheel and mounting plate and put it back together. We had a couple good inches down here on Sunday so took it out in the field. Holy crap that thing rips like it never has.

Have to wonder what the previous owner was doing, he must not be a wrench. But anyway across the field it was running 9500 with ease. So I put some heavier weights, lighter spring and steaper helix in real quick to tone it down some. It's close enough for now to take all the tuning parts with me up north on the next trip. So all is good except the cost of the electronics. Since the very beginning it was slowly burning itself up. Which explains why it has ran worse everytime I rode it.

So thanks to all who chimed in, never in a million years would anyone have guessed this. LOL
 
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