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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The main reason i put the 10.4 on was for blowing belts. I was was told by the dealer I would see some substantial mph in the top end. 5-10mph which seems like alot for a $300 upgrade. I was wondering what other 10.4 clutch owners have found. Results would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
The main reason i put the 10.4 on was for blowing belts. I was was told by the dealer I would see some substantial mph in the top end. 5-10mph which seems like alot for a $300 upgrade. I was wondering what other 10.4 clutch owners have found. Results would be appreciated.[/b]
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The main reason i put the 10.4 on was for blowing belts. I was was told by the dealer I would see some substantial mph in the top end. 5-10mph which seems like alot for a $300 upgrade. I was wondering what other 10.4 clutch owners have found. Results would be appreciated.[/b]
Beamer,

The blowing belts issue on these sleds could have been caused by different issues. However, personally, I think many were due to lack of alignment between driven and drive clutch. This created excessive heat and with a hard compound belt, ultimately blew prematurely. As I am sure you have read, "free floating" the driven to determine your optimal # of washers behind the driven is the preferred method for determining best alignment. With that said, most of us are landing at about 3 1/8" from frame to inside of outer sheave. (search here on alignment for more info on this).

Also, with any new belt, wash it in warm soapy water, allow to air dry, then scuff sides of belt with scotch-brite pad. Also, scuff sides of all four clutch sheaves with scotch-brite pads couple times per season. Finally, "break in" the belt as per mfg instructions.....this too will help belt life (search here on break in).

Regarding top speed, some guys with stock driven have no issues. However, in general and compared to stock your acceleration and top speed should be better with a 10.4, 044 belt, and good clutch kit (assuming your alignment and deflection are okay). Also add the d&d shift assist bearing. This package seems to be the most preferred. Some guys will claim other clutch changes and/or gear changes are the ticket. This may be true, but there is no consensus on what combo works best and you start spending even more $$. So, since it sounds like u have the 10.4 already, dial in your alignment, deflection, "clean" your belts and sheaves, and get a good clutch kit from ods or d&d, including a D&D shift assist, and you should be okay from a bang for your buck perspection.

The only other issue with these sleds is consistent performance out of the clutches. Everyone's still working on that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Beamer,

The blowing belts issue on these sleds could have been caused by different issues. However, personally, I think many were due to lack of alignment between driven and drive clutch. This created excessive heat and with a hard compound belt, ultimately blew prematurely. As I am sure you have read, "free floating" the driven to determine your optimal # of washers behind the driven is the preferred method for determining best alignment. With that said, most of us are landing at about 3 1/8" from frame to inside of outer sheave. (search here on alignment for more info on this).

Also, with any new belt, wash it in warm soapy water, allow to air dry, then scuff sides of belt with scotch-brite pad. Also, scuff sides of all four clutch sheaves with scotch-brite pads couple times per season. Finally, "break in" the belt as per mfg instructions.....this too will help belt life (search here on break in).

Regarding top speed, some guys with stock driven have no issues. However, in general and compared to stock your acceleration and top speed should be better with a 10.4, 044 belt, and good clutch kit (assuming your alignment and deflection are okay). Also add the d&d shift assist bearing. This package seems to be the most preferred. Some guys will claim other clutch changes and/or gear changes are the ticket. This may be true, but there is no consensus on what combo works best and you start spending even more $$. So, since it sounds like u have the 10.4 already, dial in your alignment, deflection, "clean" your belts and sheaves, and get a good clutch kit from ods or d&d, including a D&D shift assist, and you should be okay from a bang for your buck perspection.

The only other issue with these sleds is consistent performance out of the clutches. Everyone's still working on that.[/b]
Thanks. I appreciate it
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The main reason i put the 10.4 on was for blowing belts. I was was told by the dealer I would see some substantial mph in the top end. 5-10mph which seems like alot for a $300 upgrade. I was wondering what other 10.4 clutch owners have found. Results would be appreciated.[/b]
 

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I also agree that blown belts is probably due to misaligned clutches. After I threw the cat alignment bar out the window and aligned them my way, my clutches ran a lot cooler and I picked up a solid 5-6 mph. Over the summer I cut my 10" and am running an 044 cat belt. Holeshot is a little better and midrange pulles a lot better from about 30-60. I havn't done ant long pulls to check top speed, but I'm pretty sure it'll be better.
 
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