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I can't see where there would be a problem with that, even studded. As you can see from my Sno Pro track with 1.5 studs, there's still a lot of room. But, check it out for yourself to be sure.

 

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If you can run a 1.5 track fine than you should be able to stud the outside of the track and not hit.
has anyone studded the outside and got away with it.
 

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I really doubt you can go to the longer lugged track on our firecats.
The 2003 snopro sled has the front suspension mounted 3/4" lower in the chassiss on the front and they went back to 9 tooth drivers. I think thats the only way they came up with enough clearence to go to the 1.5 or 1.65 lugs. You have to remember that the clearence you see is not going to be the same under motion.
 
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Hey SnoProG. I don't know you are getting away with 1.5" studs? I have rubber marks the full length of the tunnel and if I had 1.5" studs it would rip it to shreds? I should have taken some pics when I had the skid out but sure seems like there is no way that 1.5" studs would not rip the chit out of the tunnel? Let me know what happens. Do you jump it hard?

[edit] On second look I see you have no studs on the outside or middle of the track. Makes sense now but still seems like it would be close?
 

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No problem with clearances, there's a lot of room left as I view the top of the lug at the driver end of the tunnel. I'd have to say from the end of my 1.5' studs to the tunnel ceiling is a good 3/8". I didn't measure exactly; so don't hold me to that. It just looked like a whole lot of tolerance was left. I don't jump hard; but, I am about 250 lbs and ride pretty hard and might end up getting 12 to 20 inches of air at the maximum. If it is possible for the back end of the skid to compress more than the front "driver" area, then, it may be a concern for 1.5 lug tracked and studded sled. I always check my tunnel out after riding and don't have any problems. I guess another concern should be the track arc as it rotates around the skid at speed. May the middle of the tunnel, lengthwise, should be the area the could be damaged with a studded 1.5 track. I don't know it the track actually does that when it rotates. I guess if the track gets a bit loose, it could happen even with the 1.35" studded track.
 

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If you stud in the proper location (ie: NOT in the middle and NOT on the outside, 1.50" studs will not hit the tunnel IF you adjust the track to the proper tension. Also, 1.50" Studboy's measure exactly the same as 1.45" Woody's.
 

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Originally posted by duke1n@Jan 21 2003, 12:34 AM
Hey SnoProG. I don't know you are getting away with 1.5" studs? I have rubber marks the full length of the tunnel and if I had 1.5" studs it would rip it to shreds? I should have taken some pics when I had the skid out but sure seems like there is no way that 1.5" studs would not rip the chit out of the tunnel? Let me know what happens. Do you jump it hard?

[edit] On second look I see you have no studs on the outside or middle of the track. Makes sense now but still seems like it would be close?

I believe the track will only rub on the outside due to the design of the tunnel.
 

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You also need to watch for clearance on the rear heat exchanger when rear suspension is compressed. I have 1.45 woodys in my track, and there are several fins bent over on the exchanger from jumping.
 

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If you can run a 1.5 track fine than you should be able to stud the outside of the track and not hit.
has anyone studded the outside and got away with it.[/b]
Yes, you will shred your tunnel! :wacko: :wacko:
Cat S.
 

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There is a guy in our area running a 2 inch 144 on F7 sno pro . I was looking at it and visited with him yesterday. Sounds like the 2 inch works fine he didn't change anything with the chaincase. As far as how he came up with a 2 inch he took a 15inch X 144 X 2 and trimmed it down to 13.5 so it fits the firecat. He did a good job but said it was a real pain. He's had it out west once but said the snow was so hard so it was hard to tell how it will do.
 
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