[chimmy]

I took apart the front end of my 08 IQR to get my a arms powdercoated. I pressed each ball joint from the arms and that was all fine and dandy then one day i got thinkin (Not knowing the price) maybe i should put new joints in the bottom arms since they are out anyways and have a some play like usual.

So i looked at them closely and saw a hairline crack in each of the races in the 2 big ball joints.. Looked up the price (polaris and jspowersports) and they are like $200 holy shit is that right!?? Has anyone else run into a problem like this?

What are my other options? Should i just get a whole newer front end. Although I would really like to use my freshly coated arms since I went thru all the work!

 

[sled_nutz]

I think the "crack" Is normal on them, my 06 had it along with my buddies IQr. I wouldn't worry about it too much the bearing is pressed in there pretty tight and held in with a c clip it would be pretty hard for it to go anywhere. If you are worried about it theres a couple of other bearing manufactures that make a replacement thats a lot cheaper. I think skf was one of them, i'll see if i can find a part number.

 

[akiqpilot]

Like slednutz says. The crack is normal, they come like that from the factory. If you decide to change them there is an aftermarket bearing for $40. The aftermarket bearing is an IKO Part # GE 35 GS 2RS Also on the box is this number 1051221.

You have to press out the 2 piece brass sleeve from the stock bearing and reuse them with the new bearing. The sleeve presses out with a tap hammer and a punch if you don't have an inside bearing puller. It's simple. That bearing is serviceable and much higher quality.

For grins I just searched that part # in ebay and found the bearing for $13. I.m not sure it's the exact same size we need for the IQ's but a simple measurment or two with a caliper will tell you for sure.

eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

 

[1996xlt]

wow im really glad this topic just happened to pop up, i put the skis back on my sled last night and when i had the front end jacked up i noticed about 3/16 of up and down play in the pto side ball joint and and about 1/16 play in the mag side. how much is to much?

 

[chimmy]

THANKS for the help Slednutz and AK.. I was finding hard to believe that i cracked them while pressing them out because they didnt come out too hard.. Im not too worried bout the play since it is normal and not hurting anything but thanks for the info on cheaper replacement bearings I will check into them since i got them out!! Thanks again>> Chimmy

 

[akiqpilot]

You're very welcome chimmy. Many of us went through this several years ago. I use the IKO bearings and they are very high quality. Much better than stock. I'm not sure about the quality of that e-bay bearing I posted. I might just buy one to see what it looks like.

wow im really glad this topic just happened to pop up, i put the skis back on my sled last night and when i had the front end jacked up i noticed about 3/16 of up and down play in the pto side ball joint and and about 1/16 play in the mag side. how much is to much?

The stock factory bearings get slop in them very quickly. 1/8" and 3/16" is not all that much compared to some I've seen. There is almost no possible way for the bearing to fail even if the slop gets much worse. Having ridden and worked on IQ's with slop even worse than that I can tell you the handling is almost not affected by this play in the bearing. The only real drawback is it makes the front end appear to be real sloppy if you go to sell the sled and the perspective buyer tips it on the side and starts working the ski back and forth.

The IKO bearings eliminate the slop completely

 

[1996xlt]

thanks AK you are the king

 

[TeamFrog]

Like slednutz says. The crack is normal, they come like that from the factory. If you decide to change them there is an aftermarket bearing for $40. The aftermarket bearing is an IKO Part # GE 35 GS 2RS Also on the box is this number 1051221.

You have to press out the 2 piece brass sleeve from the stock bearing and reuse them with the new bearing. The sleeve presses out with a tap hammer and a punch if you don't have an inside bearing puller. It's simple. That bearing is serviceable and much higher quality.

For grins I just searched that part # in ebay and found the bearing for $13. I.m not sure it's the exact same size we need for the IQ's but a simple measurment or two with a caliper will tell you for sure.

eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

Dragging this one off the shelf...

Has anyone tried the IKO GE35ES2RS bearing instead of the GE35GS2RS for the lower control arm? The "ES" bearings are readily available on ebay...for as cheap as $9.95 ea. but Tom recommended the "GS", which I can't find in stock anywhere.

According to the IKO catalog, the only difference between the two is that the GS bearings have "larger load capacities" and "larger permissible tilting angles". Just wondering if the ES has been proven to work for our purposes?

If not, does anyone know where to order the GS from?

http://www.ikont.co.jp/global_data/download/pdf_catalog/cat5502dGE.pdf

Thanks! :bc:

Jeff

 

[chimmy]

I ended up getting mine straight from Tom. Not sure which ones they were, but they fit good and have worked good so far. Hoping he will see this and chime in. I'm thinking they were the GS ones because they were about $40 a piece.

 

[fanatiq]

Went through this earlier in the year
http://www.hardcoresledder.com/forums/354-440-race-modified/553276-front-end-pivots-points.html
The bearings have a split, as a means to get the sphirical bearing in during manufacture

 

[TeamFrog]

Went through this earlier in the year
http://www.hardcoresledder.com/forums/354-440-race-modified/553276-front-end-pivots-points.html
The bearings have a split, as a means to get the sphirical bearing in during manufacture

Sweet...so the ES bearings have been proven to work. I knew about the split...no worries there. I just wanted to know if someone used the ES vs. the GS bearing (as recommended by Tom). You have answered by question.

Thanks!

 

[westinbrad]

I know this is an old thread, but does anyone have the an aftermarket part number for the upper ball joint? Polaris part #7061132