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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well guys, past few rides when i would start my sled it wouldn't go up on fast idle, would stay at 1400-1500 on cold start instead of the 1800-1900 it normally does when cold for a while and then idle down. It would act like it was going to foul a plug so i played with the throttle as mentioned on a earlier post and it would come out of it ok after a little while. I brought it to the dealer and showed the mech this morning and he was kinda stumped, no check engine light, once it got out of it's initial funk it sat and idled fine for him. He said they were swamped this week but that he would call Poo and ask them what they thought and call me back. Sled runs fine other then it's problem at start up. I called dad and asked him what he thought, he mentioned it could be a tight belt even though I wasn't squeeling or creeping, told me to pull the belt off and start it and see if it changes anything. So when I got home befor pulling it off the trailer I removed the belt and started it, idled at 1800-1900 rpm again never had to touch the throttle, way to go dad!!!! So I shut it off put the belt back on it and re-started, still idled 1800rpm, went through the modes in the MFD to find the engine temp and the screen was blank for temp!!! Everything else functioned fine in the MFD, lifted the hood and wiggled the harness/connectors going up to the hood , nothing. Started switching modes in the MFD and all the sudden it was there and functioning properly WTF!!!! Just wondering if this was a series of goofy events and everything was caused by a belt that's a hair too tight and the MFD deal was a fluke or if this is all connected. I have had the idle issue since changing back to the 080 belt from the 115 so that actually makes sense when I think about it BUT this MFD deal is new, makes me wonder if there is something else up. I am going to loosen my belt a bit before my next ride and see if it cures my problem, any ideas on the MFD???? Think they are related???
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
ANY IDEAS???????????????????????????
 

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ANY IDEAS???????????????????????????[/b]
My brothers 05 900 Switchback acted the same way and eventually got worse. The lights started to go dim after time and the charging bars were down to two and at times 0. The dealer went absolutely nuts trying to find the problem. They replaced numerous parts, but I think the final part that corrected it was the capacitor which is retangular shaped and located infont of the gas tank just below the coils. I think it says made in Japan on it. The capacitor stores power and if not working properly acts like this. There are also two relays that might cause this. One is the chassis relay located on the right side wire harness just to the inside of the muffler close to the TPS. It has a zip strap securing it to the coolant hose. It plugs into the pigtale coming off of the main wire harness and I think is a 4 prong. There is another one identical to this one called the charge relay located infront of the left side footwell. Take off your left side panel and it is plugged into the wires beside the driven clutch. I am assuming that the 700 would be the same. I am not totally sure if this is your problem, but it is a start.
 

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DeerHuntr - I had the same thing happen twice. Once was yesterday and once last season.

Last season I was checking the plugs and after I put them back in and put the plug boots back on I started it up. It would only go to slow idle, ran rough, and the volt indicator was 1 bar and flashing. I checked the plug boots again and wiggled them around a bit and the problem went away.

Yesterday, I was checking the plugs again. But I also was playing with the belt tension. My belt was at about 1.35" delfection (digital calipers). I then tightened the tension to about 0.9 inches of deflection, just to see how it affects things. Took it for a rip and HOLY COW. The machine felt like it was gonna rip my arms off. It had great throttle response and jump. Did some speed runs on the lake and got my best of 104mph (speedo), 101 mph (GPS) on soft pack. When I came to a stop, the belt was squeeking somewhat, the machine would want to move a bit with no throttle, and I could smell the belt. Shut it down and was checking the clutch temps. The driven was warm on the outside and on the inside of the sheaves. The drive clutch was fairly warm on the outside sheave (weight side) and HOT on the inside sheave (motor side). Started it up tapped the throttle, it move ahead, then the gauge went dead for a second, the machine sputtered, them came back with the volt meter at 1 bar flashing and would slow idle really rough. The belt was squeeking. I shut it down and played with plug boots and the problem disappeared.

Got the machine home and got my IR temperature gun. The inside drive sheave was at about 150 F, belt was at 135 F and the driven sheaves were at about 100 F. I like the jump the machine had, but didn't like the squeeling or the temps. I was kinda scared I would blow the belt.

So I loosened the belt to about 1 1/8 " deflection and figured I would give that a try. Went for a rip again. A little less jump but not bad. Better than the 1.35" deflection. Top end on a shorter run hit 100 mph on the gps. Plus the outside temps were warming up. My first run was at about 10 am. It was now about 12:30. Got it home and the drive sheave temps were at the 100 - 110 F range. NO squeeling. AND NO FUNKY MFD GAUGE!

So maybe a combination of tempermental plug boots, and a tight belt as you mentioned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I hate to change the belt deflection cause it pulls like a mother with a tight belt like you said, mine isn't as tight as yours as I am not squeeling at all. Thanks for the heads up on the plug boots, will probably go get some of those NGK screw on ones to put in my trunk just in case. I saw 102 on Sat and had to let off, it wasn't done. I have seen 108 a couple times but 106 is the norm given the correct conditions, all speeds are speedo readings. Ran my buds 07 F10 in about 8" virgin snow in a field and he beat me but didn't run away and hide like I thought he would, I weigh 100# more then he does. We switch and with me on F10 and him on mine it was pretty much a dead heat. That F10 is a NICE sled, would really consider the new F series, seems like they took all the good from the IQ and the REV chassis and put them into one. I will however not ever complain about how bad my 700 vibrates again, at an idle it seems like it is gunna shake its self apart, seems to really smooth out once you get on the flipper though. I really don't think it is any faster then his 03 F7 was in racing him, results seem about the same. It might have more up top then his F7 though, he has seen 110 and on one pull he got 118 on his speedo, seems like she has some legs!!!!
 

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Well, at the 1 1/8 " delfection, still good jump, cooler temps, and there was no squeeling. I'll stick with that for a while. By the way, I don't have the track studded and I weigh about 235 lbs. probably 250 lbs+ dressed. Forgot to mention, when checking the plugs they were black and oily looking. I had the oil pump arm fixed late last season cause it was sticking open and never checked the plugs till yesterday. I gonna get new plugs today and put them in. Might help a little.

FYI when my speedo says 100mph, the gps says 97. 104 on the speedo is 101 on the gps. So I guess the speedo is about 3% optimistic. That is pretty good for a sled speedo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That's my problem is my weight, I go about 320# without gear, my main riding buddy weighs about 200# so the races aren't really fair so i am am happy to be somewhat close, think mine is doing pretty good for a 700 with a 300# albino gorrila riding it, should have bought a 900. I am running 96 studs all in the middle with airlite double backers, no bent ones and no pull throughs, I wouldn't run studs but it is kinda an insurance policy for me, just like em for stopping and the occasional unexpected icy spot.
 

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Mine did the same thing last year. Brought it back to the dealer numerous times before they figured it out. After throwing all kinds of parts at it (under warrenty), they found the intake boot ripped between the motor and the throddle body, replace both now the sled runs good.
 
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