Originally posted by justinhul@Aug 26 2005, 01:45 PM Ok so stock gearing is a 23/39 how much could be gained by going down to a 21/41?? and what chaincase oil does everyone like?
What are you trying to gain with the gear change? Stock 23/39(1.70) 21/41 (1.95) there is a pretty big change between the 2 gear ratio's. I use either aimsoil or polaris synthetic for the chaincase.
i WANT A LITTLE MORE OUT OF THE HOLE, I DONT MIND LOSING SOME TOP END, HOW ABOUT THE KLOTZ CHAINCASE OIL??? I JUST PUT AN SLP AIR BOX KIT ON IT V-FORCE ARE GOING ON IT HAS A SLP CAN ON IT AND THE TWINS ON ORDER...
Klotz oil is fine. If you go to aggresive you might end up just spinning out of the hole if you can't get it to hook up. Not sure what you have for studs, but keep that in mind. Do you have any gears to use or do you have to buy them?
Im buying the gears, I work for a dealership so I get them at cost... As far as studding im looking at the screw with the carbide tips... I know right now I dont break loose to badly with it stock... I guess I will find out though the 21/41 gears will be in tommorow, might have to get a little anxious and rip it a few times on the lawn
What made you decide on the 21/41 gear combo? :dunno: Hooking up in the grass and the snow is a whole different ball game. I wouldn't of went that aggressive myself. I would have went with a high 1.7 or low 1.8 ratio.
I think a 22/40 would work nice on the 6. I tested with this gear in my 700 and was a little low for lake/trail. You might find that this will make a bigger difference than you think with your secondary set up. (not sure about the TEAM) You will likely see a 2 mpg drop also depending on how you were clutched to begin with and how you drive. I run my 700 at about 1.7- 1.75 and can see over 115 on the speedo in ideal conditions. Midrange acceleration is also greatly improved even with the stock 1" track (no-studs)and a little suspension/ transfer adjustment.
If you got the gears you might as well try them. The right ratio depends on what you want to do. For sure the 21/41 is gonna rip outta the hole. Top end likely will suffer vs stock . You'll need to reclutch, it will upshift fast now because the secondary has a lot more mechanical advantage.
In general the best thing to do when selecting a ratio is to mark off the distance that represents your interest, (suggest 500-660 ft. for straight drag racing, 1000 ft for all purpose, ¼ mile for only top end) and run against the clock. Gear it down and re-clutch until ET drops off. Of course you'll need representative traction for that (snow, ice or grass depending on what you want to run on). Snow is a little scarce right now in my neck of the woods :cn:
Originally posted by justinhul@Aug 30 2005, 02:04 PM How do you change the clutching on the team clutches? the helixes arent cheap and they are not as easy to just look at and figure out
I would run team #420719 helix 60 gm weights almond/blue primary spring stock secondary spring. You could also go with a 66-44/66-42 or somewhere in there. Do a search on clutching on the 600 should be alot of talk about different setups. :div20:
What does Olaev Aaen say,gear as high as you can without loosing acceleration.........try stock gearing first but use 62g & a black/green on the primary.........leave the secondary alone...........also have a excellent stud pattern(36 scratch lines per 12 bars) with 144 down the middle, jet down to a safe margin as well..............move you're rear scissoor blocks to the rear most position & tie the front down.............this set-up may surprise you as I consistently beat 800PT Doo's in 660' (they also were geared/clutched & had 200studs)..........have fun trying things out,that's the name of the game............my sled was a 05 600edge.....
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