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They will be cracked. Replace them with the updated bearings.
 

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best thing to do is to check the fluid (drain/change), if the fluid is milky brown then you probably have a bad bearing.

:m2c:

mike
 

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I would definitely replace both the upper and lower bearings on the chaincase side -- even if they appear to be perfect.

Amazing that they lasted 1,800 miles -- mine failed in 50 miles (first and only problem with my sled though).

The PTO side bearings are fine as-is.

I used part #'s 1602-051, 1602-052, and some Black RTV.
 

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Originally posted by cmscat50@Aug 30 2005, 08:44 AM
My F5 has both the original chaincase bearings.  NO PROBLEMS.  I do bring my old F7 (still 100% ok with 1600 miles on them) bearings on trips just in case.  :doh:
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Why take the chance? It's like playing roulette. Could ruin a ride or a trip. I would just replace them, it's not worth it IMO.
 

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so how are the bearing on the clutch side of the sled??? is this bearing issue soley in the chaincase side of the '03's??

whats all this use RTV crap?? dont the new bearings have seals to work in the chain case filled with oil??????
 

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Originally posted by gsxr1216@Aug 30 2005, 11:49 AM
so how are the bearing on the clutch side of the sled??? is this bearing issue soley in the chaincase side of the '03's??

whats all this use RTV crap?? dont the new bearings have seals to work in the chain case filled with oil??????
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The clutch/PTO side bearings are fine on the '03's (same as '04's), the two on the chaincase side are the problem.

The '04 style bearings use an external o-ring with different flange plates. If you replace the '03 flange plates w/ the '04 ones then you could use the external o-rings instead of RTV.

Personally, I think that the RTV solution is less likely to leak since you can get a complete seal between the bearing and the flange plate...
 

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Originally posted by cmscat50@Aug 30 2005, 11:04 AM
I seem to remember spending my bearing money somewhere else.....oh that was with you.  :beerchug:
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Touche! :duel: Change it anyway. :beer:
 

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Yeah, after you take the flange plate off the bearing should just slide off. The key here is SHOULD. Mine was kind of a bitch, in fact I had to loosen the bolts that mount the chaincase to the tunnel and some of the brake caliper bolts to get behind the bearing and apply a little force. Maybe you'll be luckier than I was. I don't believe there's any special tool to pull it but once it breaks loose from the pillow block it will move. Just needs a little persuasion. :banghead:
 

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Try pulling the speedo housing off the other side and push the whole drive shaft over. Then you can get ahold of the bearing and slide it off. One thing to watch out for is the O-ring on the inner race. It may feel tight but it is just stuck on the o-ring. Should be able to pull it off by hand.
 

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I also had to loosen the back of the chain case to get both of my bearings off. I bought the 2004 flanges and the O ring for the lower bearing. I bought the bearings from my local implement dealer or a auto parts store because they are about half the price and are standard agricultural bearings. The lower one is a standard 1" bearing (RA100RRB) and the upper is a 7/8" bearing (RA014RRB). I am pretty sure those are the correct #s.

Everything has been fine I put 2580 miles on last year and zero problems. If anyone can help me figure out how to stop the chipping of the inner idler wheels in the skid I would take any of that advice.
 

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I think everyone has had a problem with there idlers on the firecats. There is not enough rubber on them making them too hard and the ice and studs (if you have them) chip the rubber. Check out my previous post on how I changed to the ZR style wheels.
http://www.hardcoresledder.com/forums/inde...83704&hl=idlers

:flag_canada:
 
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