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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We got a little snow yesterday, 4-5 inches, time to start tuning before the snow goes again. Couldn't get in any long WOT runs. This set-up seems to run strong and very responsive. Pulls hard in the mid-range, pulls harder as the pipe heats up. Brougt it up to 80 a few times still seems to be pulling strong, ran out of room after that.
Here's my set-up:
SLP single pipe
VF-3 reeds
Tempa-flo set on the dot
Gutted airbox
SLP air horn
2 1/2" flowrites in dash
23/43 gearing
Primary: 10-66's with alm/blue spring
Secondary: Team #719 helix with updated Blk/red spring
136" 1.25" predator track with 108 1.375" studs all down the middle
2 turns fuel screws
1 turn air screws
Clutches aligned with .040 endplay on the secondary
1 1/4" belt deflection

Runs up to 7900 rpm quick and is still climbing when I run out of room

Last year it was all stock except clutching, 121" 1" track w/ 144 studs down the middle, stock gearing, ran ok with 430 mains a little rich but on really cold days it seemed to lean out too much for comfort. Running too good if you know what I mean.



Starting with 450 mains and the plugs look good, slightly rich but it was +25f yesterday

I've got 440's and 430's I could try

Also I rigged up a temp sensor in the y-pipe just where the exhausts come together, running up to 1100 degrees on longer runs, 800-900 degrees mid-range

What is danger zone for exhaust temp ? 1325 degrees at WOT ?
What is the ideal exhaust temp I should be looking for?

Also is anyone running filters on the carbs in their gutted airbox?
I don't have pre-filters on the factory dash intakes, also the headlight is sealed with factory foam but some moisture/snow dust is being sucked by
I was thinking of just getting the SLP uni-filters to go on the carbs to prevent snow ingestion

I got most of the ideas for my mods from you guys on here so thanks for the help.
All good so far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Bonz50,

So 1250+ will be a burndown.

Also I'm new to using Tempa-flo, am I right in thinking on -15F days and/or 2000+ elevation I can turn the Tempa counterclockwise a 1/4 turn to be safe.
 

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almost exactly what my set up is but you need to get it leaner , I run 440 MJ with my tempaflow dialed 1/4 turn lean . I run the larger mj just incase I can only get 87 fuel , I run a RTK high compresion head thats cut for 91+ fuel so this leaves me a safe margin. you want to run your peak RPM at 8000~ 8050 with that pipe.

WOT egt needs to match your wash , every motor and combo will act slightly differnt. My wash is down to 3/16" ~ 1/4" on two of the intake ports so thats about perfect if I still want to do long WOT runs. I could go leaner on th MJ but no more long blast across the lakes...... My EGT at WOT is 1130~1150*f in the y pipe 4.5" off the piston skirt. midrange egt at 40~50 mph is around 1050~1100*f.
 

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Lot's of good info posted here for ya.

I ran a similar setup without a tempaflow.

You're observations on the hot pipe improvement are spot on.
The SLP single needs to be hot to run well.
The gutted airbox needs leaner jetting than most expect to run well.

The 440 mains will likely be too rich unless it's stupid cold out and or you like to clamp WFO for really long pulls.
The 430's run very well and safe down to around 0deg F with the gutted airbox.
The rpm should be around 8000 and closer to 8100 when the pipe heats up.
You'll know when you're jetting is dialed as the rpm will climb 200rpm or so and the 66's will pull hard.
If you're rich you won't pull the 66's with any authority and won't likely see any more than 7800 or so rpm.

The snow/moisture intake problem is well acknowledged with the gutted airbox.
Prefilters are a must or you end up with lot's of snowdust and moisture in the airbox and carbs.....even in the carbs.
When rising in a group in high snodust conditions I ended up with no low speed circuitry for a while due to iced up carbs when I 1st gutted my airbox!!

The 1st year I ran a stock motor with clutching and 121 track and I used 420 mains down to really crazy cold temps (-30degF !!) and ran safe and very well.
My 1st setup was the SLP/Vforce reeds/gutted airbox and I started at 450 mains and the sled would barely get out of it's own way!
440 was cleaner but still slower than stock!
430 and it woke up and I gained 200 rpm and needed the 66's to stay under 8100 rpm.
420 and the sled pulled really hard and ran very well around 15 to 20deg F.

LEAVE the needle in the stock middle position!
The midrange needs the fuel!!

I miss my PROX7....great sled...more than 9000 miles of fun!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Just came back from a few runs with 430's in. The temp outside is 28f. This set-up rocks to 80-90 on the speedo. Pulls hard all thru the range. Better as the pipe heats up. The mains really only effect WOT, right? Still can't get any long WOT runs in. The funny thing is the pipe with 2 sizes smaller mains is not getting as hot, around 1000 degrees,does this make sense?
 

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EGT at WOT takes about 15~20 seconds for it to stablize.... DONT jet useing egt use it as a tool to fine tune one you learn what the motor wants based on plugs and wash then egt .....
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok that makes sense. I checked the plugs and they are golden brown all the way down the insulator. Looks like it should be OK with these mains. The RPM seems to have picked up too, even with the 66's and alm/blue its going to about 8000 right off. This is with the factory tach, might be off.
 

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Rich jetting will often show higher egt as the fuel is burning in the pipe, not the cyl. As stated, do not go by egt alone for jetting as the "bell curve" can put you lean with low egt, you can skip right over the sweet spot. Definately get the prefilters for the factory foams. I suppose you could by a sheet of the flowrite material, and using velcro so it can come off, put a piece over the entire airbox opening. It will resrict the flow somewhat, how much it is difficult to say. But no more snow dust/foreign material.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Appreciate all the input. I reread the Tempa-flo instructions and I had it backwards. The altitude thing fucked me up. We've had most of our burndowns at the higher elevations but it also colder up there. Basically everything here in the Northeast is flatlander jetting right. Clockwise is richer (1/4 turn max) Counterclockwise leaner (3/8 turn max) with the Tempa.
I'll order the SLP dash pre-filters and some pre-filter material to go over the air horn kit. With the stock airbox I froze the carbs up two years ago running in a pack with wicked fine snow dust conditions. I believe the ice was getting in by the headlight so I added some foam behind the factory foam. The pre-filter material over the airbox intake should ensure the carbs don't see any snow dust whichever way it comes from.
Also I'll pick up some 420 mains sounds like this where I may end up unless its stupid cold out, judging by others setups. Not sure if I'll still be able to turn the 66's jetting that lean though.
By the way, the 136" track hooks way better than the 121". Stock should have been a 136". Can't wait to get some real snow and get it out on the trail.

Thanks again and Happy New Year

Aaron
 

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Hi - I'm gonna run an SLP single w/ can on my 03 PRO X 700 this weekend for the 1st time. ... and I've been searching the PRO X forum and this post seemed to have pretty good knowledge! I've got a gutted airbox, boyesen cages/petals, Red/ Dark Blue Secondary (140-200) Alm/Red primary w/ 64's , i'm going to start w/ 430s since its not going to be TOO cold in MI this weekend, but according to some posts i've been reading I should be pulling 66's?? I would Appreciate any good input.. Thanks - MATT
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'd say try the setup you got and watch what your finish RPM is. Should be around 7900 -8200.

Alm/red 165-310
Alm/blue 150-310

Both springs have the same finish. I'm running Alm/blue w/ 66's and finishing a little over 8000. Every sled is a little different so your setup may work fine. Others may have better advice.
 

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Hi - I'm gonna run an SLP single w/ can on my 03 PRO X 700 this weekend for the 1st time. ... and I've been searching the PRO X forum and this post seemed to have pretty good knowledge! I've got a gutted airbox, boyesen cages/petals, Red/ Dark Blue Secondary (140-200) Alm/Red primary w/ 64's , i'm going to start w/ 430s since its not going to be TOO cold in MI this weekend, but according to some posts i've been reading I should be pulling 66's?? I would Appreciate any good input.. Thanks - MATT[/b]

Matt what helix are you running? you should have no problem pulling 10-66 around sealevel to 4000' with 430 mains.

red/drk blue spring in the secondary works but I found it to be hard on belts, you may want a little stiffer spring like the black/green or the stock black/red.... it will make adifferance on what helix your running , I have a steep 70-44.46er and a 70-46-42 er (719 ) that I run now. the steep helix is harder on belts then the stock 66*.
 

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Bonz50,

So 1250+ will be a burndown.

Also I'm new to using Tempa-flo, am I right in thinking on -15F days and/or 2000+ elevation I can turn the Tempa counterclockwise a 1/4 turn to be safe.[/b]
not necessarily... depends on a lot of factors... but 1250 is a good rule of thumb, you just don't want to run egt's hotter than that unless you are jetted for 500'...

for one never turn the tempa more than 1/8th turn... when set on the dot it is set for -20 iirc... xc-mark is correct, use wash and plugs to help get baselined and then use you egt to keep an eye on things... if you get egt's make sure you spend money on the good fast reacting probes and spend the cash to get a decent gauge as well... i suggest using digatron, best i've seen...
 

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alright, i am kinda stumped now. i have a 03 700 with;

slp single and can
flowrites
gutted air-box
prefilters
430's
165-327 primary NEW
10-62 weights
155-222 secondary NEW(black/red)
#719 helix
23/43 gears
136 1.5" w/162 down the middle


it will only pull 7800 and with belt slip on the primary at the top of the sheeves.i just bought a 140-240 secondary spring for the secondary and will try it tommorow.
piston wash is on the upper limit.and i have brand new valves, springs, and bellows.


it feels to me like it is shifting out too soon and it never climbs past 7900. i feel like something other than the clutching/gearing is not right.
 

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What altitude are you at? The helix will need to be on the shallow angle with that track. You also need 64 gram weights, you likely are not loading the engine enough to heat the pipe properly. You are geared for about 95mph, so you may be running out of gear on a long run. Also, that primary spring is too stiff at shift out. Run an almond/red at the stiffest, or almond/blue. Is the secondary spring black with a red stripe?
 

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i've been running an almond round with 64's on mine, similar mod list and it pulls to about 7900-7950 (just an RCH off of 8000 on a calbrated tach)... sled yanks HARD... pockets is right, you need to change up your clutching a bit...
 

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sorry but are you talking about polaris springs or team? and what do you mean by running a softer spring in the primary and heavier weights , i cant pull r's as it is so will you pease explain in a little more detail so i can fully understand what is happening. i am at about 1000'.the helix is in the 66-44-42 position.
 

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Go to 420 mains. The stiff primary spring, and light weights, are not making the engine work hard enough to build pipe heat to have it provide the proper back pressure, to scavenge the fuel/air mixture back in to the cyl. You may have other issues, but until the clutching is closer, you will not know for sure. Check the clutch alignment, motor mounts, engine torque stop set tight.
 

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well i am running this set up because jason from team told me that ths is what they have had the best luck with, along with the info i gathered from here. i put the red/black spring in the secondary today and it pulls the r's now on the lake.

i was also wondering what the spec for the torque stop is?
 
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