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A little background. I grew up in a radiator shop I’m a industrial mechanic/millwright and stationary engineer
then I guess you know how to bleed a cooling system, lol!
.. but some issues on these sleds are just weird
 

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Its so easy to pull the head I would pop it off and make sure the orings aren't melted.It sure sounds like a blown head gasket.
Initially thought the same, but op did a pressure test. If so there would be coolant in the cylinders and loss of pressure.

On the other hand edge sleds can be a pita to bleed. I 've run into some that run on the hot side taking a couple rides to purge all the air out of the system.
 

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I still think it’s not been bleed right. His first post says all he gets is steam when he opens the bleed screw. Then It will boil out the overflow after running.

To the OP. Your absolutely positive that you filled the engine with coolant. If you just fill the overflow tank to the full line you will be way below being full in the engine. The pressure tank is lower than the tstat housing.

To be absolutely positive you have the system full. Pull the hose coming out of the tsat housing off and fill coolant through that. That should back fill the whole system until it starts coming out of the tstat housing.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Initially thought the same, but op did a pressure test. If so there would be coolant in the cylinders and loss of pressure.

On the other hand edge sleds can be a pita to bleed. I 've run into some that run on the hot side taking a couple rides to purge all the air out of the system.
Ive pressure tested sleds that held pressure but had issues when running....weird I know.
It takes about 3 minutes(plus draining the coolant down) to pull the head off and take a peek inside.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Broke the engine down again. Found a small warp in the head. .003 must get worse when hot found some oil in the coolant I removed. I read today that the combustion chamber pressure doubles during detonation. Head is being shaved down now. Tore the water pump down and took the belt off this tome and tried to move it and found it was very tight. Loosen the nut off and turned free. Checked the bearing and seal. Yes I’m sure I have bled it right as I mentioned I grew up with my old man owner a rad shop and have bled my share of vehicles
 

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Im guessing the orings under the head were flat too.Make sure you don't over torque the head.If you had the engine all apart Im not sure if you are aware that the head gets torqued before the cylinder base nuts on that engine
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Yep I saw that last year when I did the top end. Polaris is good to let us download any manuals for free
 

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I've seen heads way worse than .003" and not have an issue. Check the o-ring grooves in the cylinders very carefully for any debris. Also check to see that the cylinder decks are level with each other. Did you throw a straight-edge across the tops of the cylinders to make sure they weren't the problem? Out of curiosity, what is the history of the engine? If the cylinders have been plated, I've seen those not have a flat "deck", so don't seal to the head properly. Your symptom sounds like cylinder pressure is leaking into the cooling system. That will both cause the engine to "burp" coolant out of the overflow bottle and tend to overheat.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Got the heads trued up and new o rings. Machinist said they were pitted and .005 out. Put it all back together last night and filled it up with fresh coolant running good so far.
 
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