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Old 10-01-2011, 03:28 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 867
Current Sled(s): '13 Pro RMK
Location: Mukwonago, WI
Favorite Riding Area: UP Wyoming Colorado
Riding Since: 1996

Apply thread locker where you feel you need it when reassembling. I won't be mentioning where to put threadlocker, thats your call. It's a good time to check your slides, grease the skid, verify shock function.
  1. Note the arrows showing track direction under normal driving. Shove the track up into the inside of the tunnel so you can slide the shaft first into the left of the sled and then over into the chain case.
  2. Install the lower gear and put the Eaton clip on the drive shaft, make sure it is seated.
  3. Slide the brake caliper and rotor back onto the shaft.
  4. Install the three 10mm head bolts through the cover behind the caliper inside the tunnel.
  5. Install the skid frame back into the sled, tighten the rear bolts first so it can hang and then you can line up the front ones. This will get the tunnel to suck back together. I used a ratchet strap for this job (before putting in the skid frame), the brake side clip will not fully seat if you can't get the tunnel narrow enough to expose it.

  6. Release the parking brake.
  7. Install the Eaton clip onto the brake rotor side of the shaft.
  8. With the spring tensioner held out of the way, install the chain onto the lower gear, put the top gear in the chain and slide the top gear and chain onto the upper spline. It will go, be patient and rotate the jack shaft slightly if it wont go.
  9. Tighten the top gear bolt and washer.
  10. Put the tensioner back down into the top of the adjuster teeth. You don't need to get crazy with the tension, it is self tensioning.
  11. Reinstall the cover/oil tank assembly.
  12. Fill chain case back up using the sight glass.
  13. Reconnect the oil level sensor and speed sensor connectors and re-zip tie it to the ear on the back of the chain case.
  14. Install the T20 screw that fastens the side panel to the frame tube.
  15. Install the muffler, noting that it sits properly on the frame and that the rubber gasket around the muffler outlet is properly seated. Put on the two springs that hold the muffler down to the frame, the 2 springs that hold on the muffler to the pipe, and the one spring under the pipe. If you took off the whole pipe re-install the 4 springs at the y-pipe and the pipe temp sensor.

  16. Reinstall the rotor cover with its screws and two 3/16" rivets and reinstall the left and right foot well plates.
  17. (This is a great time to clean your clutches and belt with warm soapy water, even from new.) Put the secondary back on, depress the sheaves with the bolt and washer and reinstall the belt noting the directional arrows. Reinstall the clutch bolt and put the large washer back in your tool kit.
  18. Put the cowl back on the gas tank and attach.
  19. Put the seat on and bolt it back on.
  20. Put the hood on making sure to seat the air intake at the front of the sled. Also don't forget to attach the wiring connector. Tighten the four screws.
  21. Refill the air shock and put the valve cap back on.
  22. Tension and align the track according to your owners manual.
  23. Tighten the back axle bolts.
  24. Check everything over, put the side panels back on and after the first ride, re-check the track tension. Make sure you have the tools with you to tighten the track on your first ride, you may find it gets relaxed and need a few more turns after it is broken in.

Anyone who does this and wants me to edit, add or remove steps please let me know and I will clean it up accordingly.

Last edited by johnmaster; 10-01-2011 at 11:47 AM.
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