2015 polaris assault 800 144x2 suspention set up - Page 2 - HCS Snowmobile Forums

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Old 02-17-2019, 08:21 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Ok thanks. Can I do one side at a time? I have only removed these before on another skid to change shocks. Not easy to do this


Loosen track, removed both bolts, have an assistant help manipulate skid forward or aft (because the rear scissor arm will be what you’re fighting) until the front arm aligns with whichever bolt holes in the tunnel you want to use, install bolts and tension/align track. I use to do this by myself, in about 10-15 minutes.
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Old 02-19-2019, 11:15 AM   #12 (permalink)
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ok great, thanks
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Old 06-20-2019, 08:50 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Bump up
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Old 06-23-2019, 08:50 AM   #14 (permalink)
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suspension 101. your front track shock is the pivot point of your sled. messing with this and the limiter strap can have very bad effects. # 1 have your shocks rebuilt to make sure they are up to spec. you should only need revalving if you are over 260 lb's or under 180 lb's or very aggressive rider that jumps a lot. set you front track shock at factory spec. your front IFS spring pre-load set just so the springs keep the keeper on with the front end off the ground. the rear pre-load now use for weight transfer and front end bite.

all assaults need gripper ski's or equivalent aftermarket ones with 6" shaper bars.

set all clicker to 3-4 except the front track shock. set at 2.

make a one turn only adjustment at a time on the front IFS shocks if needed? and 1-2 clicker adjustment at a time. to many people just start turning the clicker to 8-10 or so. your shocks wont even move here. front IFS shocks to stiff or to much weight on the ski's, it will high side not enough it will push.

if you can't get it dialed in then you may need stronger or different weight springs especially on the rear arm.
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Old 08-05-2019, 10:01 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Like Rick said get the shocks rebuild I have seen lots that have the clicker c-clip busted out. Any adjustments in this state will have little to no affect on your suspension.
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Old 11-03-2019, 03:43 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Old 11-04-2019, 10:09 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by northstarrick View Post
suspension 101. your front track shock is the pivot point of your sled. messing with this and the limiter strap can have very bad effects. # 1 have your shocks rebuilt to make sure they are up to spec. you should only need revalving if you are over 260 lb's or under 180 lb's or very aggressive rider that jumps a lot. set you front track shock at factory spec. your front IFS spring pre-load set just so the springs keep the keeper on with the front end off the ground. the rear pre-load now use for weight transfer and front end bite.

all assaults need gripper ski's or equivalent aftermarket ones with 6" shaper bars.

set all clicker to 3-4 except the front track shock. set at 2.

make a one turn only adjustment at a time on the front IFS shocks if needed? and 1-2 clicker adjustment at a time. to many people just start turning the clicker to 8-10 or so. your shocks wont even move here. front IFS shocks to stiff or to much weight on the ski's, it will high side not enough it will push.

if you can't get it dialed in then you may need stronger or different weight springs especially on the rear arm.

With your weight be around 200Lbs, Northstar has you really close on the set up for your needs, without knowing the actual trail conditions. The WE's are an excellent shock, you can also play with the oil you put in the shock to assist in your rebound. Depending on the trail and the whoops, I like a Honda 5 weight, versus the U.P. Michigan railroad grades, then I up the oil weight for the Cadillac ride to accompany the "no speed limit"!!! BTW, it sure looks like the Mosquito Inn will be open for the Winter, ran the Harley up there back in September, and the owners are looking to be in it to win it as they say!!!!
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Old 01-13-2020, 09:46 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by northstarrick View Post
suspension 101. your front track shock is the pivot point of your sled. messing with this and the limiter strap can have very bad effects. # 1 have your shocks rebuilt to make sure they are up to spec. you should only need revalving if you are over 260 lb's or under 180 lb's or very aggressive rider that jumps a lot. set you front track shock at factory spec. your front IFS spring pre-load set just so the springs keep the keeper on with the front end off the ground. the rear pre-load now use for weight transfer and front end bite.

all assaults need gripper ski's or equivalent aftermarket ones with 6" shaper bars.

set all clicker to 3-4 except the front track shock. set at 2.

make a one turn only adjustment at a time on the front IFS shocks if needed? and 1-2 clicker adjustment at a time. to many people just start turning the clicker to 8-10 or so. your shocks wont even move here. front IFS shocks to stiff or to much weight on the ski's, it will high side not enough it will push.

if you can't get it dialed in then you may need stronger or different weight springs especially on the rear arm.
What are stock specs on all 4 shocks? I have a 2014 SBA and I'm constantly fighting with when ditchbanging vause it just nose dives. I wanna set everything up back to factory specs, and work from there

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