Fuel Surge: How To Fix The Smart Valves *PICS* - HCS Snowmobile Forums

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Old 03-04-2013, 11:13 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Arrow Fuel Surge: How To Fix The Smart Valves *PICS*

Many have been experiencing the dreaded fuel surge on the Procross sleds when the fuel gets below half a tank. Greensmob posted a fix for this back in January of 2012 and many that have done the fix have not had the surge again. I too just did mine on my 2013 XF Turbo 1100 this weekend and my surge seems to be gone as well! So thanks Greensmob for figuring this issue out!

Here are some pics to help do the job yourself. I had never done one before but it seriously took me less than 2 hours and that was with the dis-assembly of all the plastics and re-install of everything.

Here is the summary of what Greensmob posted. It is really that simple:
Quote:
Get your fuel pump assembly out of the sled, look at the smart valves mine was built as follows front smart valve had green diaphragm which is non-vented, the rear two valves were vented one and non-vented the other.
I took the vented one apart just pops apart with a small flat head, and swapped the vented diaphragm white in color to the front smart valve. I’m thinking once the front valve closed the suction from the pump wouldn't let the valve release. Now with the vented diaphragm it still shuts but there is enough of a vacuum break in the diaphragm to let it open again.
STEP 1: Remove all plastics to get to your fuel assembly
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STEP 2: Remove fuel assembly. It’s comes out as one whole unit.
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STEP 3: Place assembly on a clean area. Make sure you place it where you don’t mine fuel leaking. Fuel will leak out of the assembly and valves.
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STEP 4: You can see the difference here of the vented and non-vented value. Notice how the non-vented is still closed shut holding the fuel. You want the non-vented valves (green ones on my assembly) to be in the BACK of the fuel tank!
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STEP 5: Here are the two valves disassembled. See the white one has a hole for venting. This is the valve you want at the top of the fuel assembly. Simply use a small flat screw driver to separate the valves from the valve body. VERY simple to do! You DO NOT need to disconnect the fuel line and switch the whole valve.
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STEP 6: Reassemble everything and feed the fuel assembly back into the tank. You need to make sure you get the two back valves into the back of the tank and placed at the bottom of the tank. Some have used a coat hanger and bent it to allow you to feed the lines and valves back in there. My friend had a skinny enough arm to get his whole arm into the tank to help place them back in there. Here is a pic of the fuel tank for reference. You can see how there is not much fuel depth when fuel gets low.
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STEP 7: Put everything back together and test! No more surge for my sled!
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Hope these help. It really wasn't difficult at all to do. Your wife will love it though when the fuel smell creeps into the house.
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'17 M8000 Snopro 141"
'17 ZR4000 Snopro 129"
'16 High Country XF8000 Limited
'14 XF8000 Snopro
'13 XF1100 Turbo Limited
'12 F1100 Turbo Retro
'10 Z1 Turbo EXT 144"
'09 Crossfire R 1000
'05 ZR 120 (red)
'04 Firecat F6 Snopro
'03 Firecat F7 Snopro
'01 ZL600 EFI ESR
'99 Z370
'88 Yamaha SnoScoot
'86 Kitty Cat
'80 El Tigre 6000
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Old 03-04-2013, 11:26 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I have never had a surge issue, but holy cow how did your buddy get his arm all the way to the back of the tank?
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Old 03-04-2013, 11:49 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Current Sled(s): '17 M8000 Snopro 141"
Previous Sled(s): Many - All Cats
Location: Northern IL. 60178
Favorite Riding Area: Northern WI & Da UP
19-20 Mileage:
18-19 Mileage: 1215
17-18 Mileage: 1350
16-17 Mileage: 1100
Age: 40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vince View Post
I have never had a surge issue, but holy cow how did your buddy get his arm all the way to the back of the tank?
Vince,

He has very long skinny arms. lol. You don't need to reach all the way back there, just enough to make sure the valves get placed correctly.
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----------------------
'17 M8000 Snopro 141"
'17 ZR4000 Snopro 129"
'16 High Country XF8000 Limited
'14 XF8000 Snopro
'13 XF1100 Turbo Limited
'12 F1100 Turbo Retro
'10 Z1 Turbo EXT 144"
'09 Crossfire R 1000
'05 ZR 120 (red)
'04 Firecat F6 Snopro
'03 Firecat F7 Snopro
'01 ZL600 EFI ESR
'99 Z370
'88 Yamaha SnoScoot
'86 Kitty Cat
'80 El Tigre 6000
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Old 03-04-2013, 11:59 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I don't have the problem either, but great post, your pics, with labels are excellent. Thanks for the post!
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Old 03-04-2013, 11:59 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Had to do this to my 2012 f 800.
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Old 03-04-2013, 12:41 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Did you pin this?
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Old 03-04-2013, 05:26 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Awesome post, I used and recommend people to use Greensmob's idea but you explain and illustrate it perfectly.
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Old 03-05-2013, 01:18 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Great write up. Is that wire with the two white plastic blocks on the end what needs to be adjusted to make the gas gauge more accurate? Thanks
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Old 03-05-2013, 09:16 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Nice job NICK
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Old 03-05-2013, 12:26 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I did this on my 2013 f-8 lxr and it fixed it perfectly until the other day at 1300 miles it started to do it again. very disapointing , thought it was fixed for ever. Not sure what to do now, or if maybe I picked up some water or something.
Anyone have any ideas?
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