Driveline Maintenance Tools and Techniques - HCS Snowmobile Forums

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Old 11-22-2016, 11:11 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Driveline Maintenance Tools and Techniques

At 5500 miles I figure it's time to do some real maintenance on my 2012 M1100T.

I'm going to be putting the Arctic Cat Driven Shaft Kit update (1100 version) in. I also ordered both chaincase seals, the bottom chaincase bearing, and the brake side drive shaft bearing as well.

I'm also going to replace the reverse fork wear pads and put the Arctic Cat Borg Warner Gearing Kit 21 x 49 in since I'm still using the original chain.

The service manual and a few threads mention that you need a ring nut socket (pn 0644-516) to get the ring nut off. It's a $50 socket, do I actually need it?

Also, how much of a pain in the ass did I just sign up for? Any particularly painful steps that are seared into your memory if you've replaced the parts I'll disassembling and replacing?

I've had the driveshaft out to replace the heat exchanger, so I'm familiar with the "interesting" view of the back of the motor you get when you do that. I'm more alarmed by jackshaft removal and replacing the bearings in the chaincase. It mentions needing to remove the inner chaincase from the sled to replace the bearings...

Speaking of, do you need a press to replace the two chaincase bearings?
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Old 11-22-2016, 11:44 PM   #2 (permalink)
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On my 2012 the only issue I had was at about 10,500 miles and that was the coolant bottle splitting, I did upgrade to the 2013 shaft at about 5,000 miles and the rest was all intact when I got rid of it at just under 11,000 miles.
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Old 11-23-2016, 06:49 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I don't remember using the socket tool- instead I think I used a punch to remove ad reinstall that bearing nut. You don't have to remove the inner case but it was a major PITA to replace the lower seal with it in. Use a little heat to warm casing around the bearings and they'll pop out and go in much easier. The biggest pita is the upper pto shaft bearing. If you buy that bearing already pressed on the shaft with a tcl you have to keep it perpendicular to shaft as you install it or the seals will pop off (a pain but I think cat sells a tool for this to keep it square). If you try to drive the bearing off and a new one on you'll need a special tool. OSP made a nice YouTube video for the XF1100 jackshaft install.
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Old 11-23-2016, 07:44 AM   #4 (permalink)
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You should use the socket so you can torque the nut. If the nut backs off it will kill the upper chaincase wobble bearing. I had this happen on a customer sled and had to do job twice.... live and learn I guess. The bearings pop right out if you apply a little heat with a propane torch. Job is not fun but not real hard. I would replace all the bearing just for a piece of mind.
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Old 11-23-2016, 08:40 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by izzni View Post
At 5500 miles I figure it's time to do some real maintenance on my 2012 M1100T.

I'm going to be putting the Arctic Cat Driven Shaft Kit update (1100 version) in. I also ordered both chaincase seals, the bottom chaincase bearing, and the brake side drive shaft bearing as well.

I'm also going to replace the reverse fork wear pads and put the Arctic Cat Borg Warner Gearing Kit 21 x 49 in since I'm still using the original chain.

The service manual and a few threads mention that you need a ring nut socket (pn 0644-516) to get the ring nut off. It's a $50 socket, do I actually need it?

Also, how much of a pain in the ass did I just sign up for? Any particularly painful steps that are seared into your memory if you've replaced the parts I'll disassembling and replacing?

I've had the driveshaft out to replace the heat exchanger, so I'm familiar with the "interesting" view of the back of the motor you get when you do that. I'm more alarmed by jackshaft removal and replacing the bearings in the chaincase. It mentions needing to remove the inner chaincase from the sled to replace the bearings...

Speaking of, do you need a press to replace the two chaincase bearings?
I made my own and would be more than happy to send it to you to use.
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Old 11-23-2016, 09:58 AM   #6 (permalink)
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If installing the new style shaft you do not have to reinstall that nut (on the 800 at least) so just knock it off with a punch.
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Old 11-23-2016, 10:33 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tack836 View Post
If installing the new style shaft you do not have to reinstall that nut (on the 800 at least) so just knock it off with a punch.
I'm installing the kit that "brings it to the 2015 specifications" on an 1100.

Here's the 2012 Microfiche:
CountryCat.com

And here's the 2015 Microfiche:
CountryCat.com

There are less parts in the 2015 version. Specifically parts #6 and #9 of the 2012 microfiche are absent in the 2015 version. Is #9 the nut that you normally have to use the socket on?
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Old 11-23-2016, 10:34 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Can't comment a whole lot, other than I replaced the lower chaincase seal and bearing + brake bearing when I did my track swap, just since I didn't feel like doing it again anytime soon. Both bearings are lightly pressed in. I just cobbled together my own puller out of thread rod/ bolt and a socket that was the right size(s). They pressed out and back in with minimal effort. I didn't use any heat though. With the chaincase seal, I just folded the edge over with a small screwdriver and hammer, and it was enough to yank out with a pliers. I drifted the new one in with a socket and all is well.

Edit: This was on my '16 turbo.
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Old 11-23-2016, 11:03 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Yes #9 is the nut.

https://www.itekindustries.ca/en/ent...-new-part.html
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Old 11-23-2016, 11:32 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Super 8 View Post
I made my own and would be more than happy to send it to you to use.
Sounds like I fortunately don't need it, thank you for the offer though!

As for the supporting the bearing/shaft so that it stays perpendicular. This is to prevent damaging the seal on the clutch side of the jackshaft, or the seal on the chaincase side of the jackshaft? They reference a 6.5in long deep wall socket to do this, but I'm guessing PVC pipe cut to the right length is just as good.

Last edited by izzni; 11-23-2016 at 11:35 AM.
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