Fusion HO600 M10 128 to a Tracks USA 136 - HCS Snowmobile Forums

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Old 01-23-2012, 07:53 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Fusion HO600 M10 128 to a Tracks USA 136

Fusion HO600 M10 128 to a Tracks USA 136. Has anyone done this ext with their m10 128 track? I searched on old posts and someone put there may be an issue extending the m10 to a 136. I"m wondering if anyone knows any details of this.

thanks.
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Old 01-23-2012, 08:05 PM   #2 (permalink)
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tracksusa.com - contact them with any questions you might have. They're great to speak with, won't pressure you at all. If they don't know, nobody does.
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Old 01-24-2012, 08:27 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Fusion HO600 M10 128 to a Tracks USA 136. Has anyone done this ext with their m10 128 track? I searched on old posts and someone put there may be an issue extending the m10 to a 136. I"m wondering if anyone knows any details of this.

thanks.
i want to do it also b ut already have the issue with the back 1/3 of the track not touching the ground.its better if i tightened the limiter all the way up,but makes the skis super heavy to turn and dart.wondering about lowering the rear of the skid somehow.any thoughts appreciated from anyone
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Old 01-24-2012, 09:13 AM   #4 (permalink)
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i want to do it also b ut already have the issue with the back 1/3 of the track not touching the ground.its better if i tightened the limiter all the way up,but makes the skis super heavy to turn and dart.wondering about lowering the rear of the skid somehow.any thoughts appreciated from anyone
If it's handling and riding OK, I wouldn't worry too much about what it looks like when you aren't on it? If you lower the back of the skid, or raise the front of it - you'll be doing about the same thing to your steering as raising the limiter strap. It's their screwy coupling system that's lifting the rear up - and you can't mess with that without affecting the ride....
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Old 01-24-2012, 12:33 PM   #5 (permalink)
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If it's handling and riding OK, I wouldn't worry too much about what it looks like when you aren't on it? If you lower the back of the skid, or raise the front of it - you'll be doing about the same thing to your steering as raising the limiter strap. It's their screwy coupling system that's lifting the rear up - and you can't mess with that without affecting the ride....
i agree with u but it doesnt stop worth a damn up like that.my 600 stops in half the distance.plus people say i spin to much. :-) (it does).i wonder if i shortened up the front torque arm a little and made the shock mount higher.like cut a piece out of the middle and weld it back together with a sleeve inside the tubes. just thinking out loud
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Old 01-25-2012, 09:41 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Is your 600 (the one that stops) an M-10?

Regarding this problem, cutting/rewelding an arm isn't any different than changing the mounting position on the tunnel - only it changes the geometry between the front and rear arms, due to the fact they would no longer be the same length? To do that effectively would be a brain bender for sure!

Have you gone to the heavy front skid spring some guys were talking about a while back?

Just curious, but the coupling roller, where is it at when you're sitting on the sled? Is it still all the way forward/topped, against the bottom/rear, or somewhere in the middle?

Sag set for your weight? Or is this one of those where they've made that nearly impossible to adjust?

Just trying to provide you with some ideas....
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Old 01-26-2012, 07:12 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Is your 600 (the one that stops) an M-10?

Regarding this problem, cutting/rewelding an arm isn't any different than changing the mounting position on the tunnel - only it changes the geometry between the front and rear arms, due to the fact they would no longer be the same length? To do that effectively would be a brain bender for sure!

Have you gone to the heavy front skid spring some guys were talking about a while back?

Just curious, but the coupling roller, where is it at when you're sitting on the sled? Is it still all the way forward/topped, against the bottom/rear, or somewhere in the middle?

Sag set for your weight? Or is this one of those where they've made that nearly impossible to adjust?

Just trying to provide you with some ideas....
no on the heavy spring.unless its shorter it would make it worse.the coupler sets about middle.u can stillset the sag with the rail adjusters.the 600 doesnt have m10.it sits flat on the ground.the m10 only touches from halfway to the front.so there is no stopping power.gets scary if you dont plan on it.maybe i could send a pic somehow.some one told me that fast made a updated front arm for those.backing of the front spring and tightening the limiter will pull it down flat and stop normal and not spin so bad but you lose about half travel.makes it look like a low rider.:-)this sled has been trouble free for 6500 miles and the shock revalaveing has it riding better than anything i have ever rode.so i would really like to fix it some how.apreciate your interest.
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Old 01-27-2012, 08:45 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Was reading another string in the FST section. There was reference to a "lowering kit" from Fast. Might be worth a phone call?

https://www.hardcoresledder.com/forum...ml#post6215292

https://www.hardcoresledder.com/forum...ml#post6215292
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Old 01-28-2012, 09:10 AM   #9 (permalink)
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This is exactly how my sled was when I finally got to ride it in UP last weekend. I'm wondering if the M10 is really worth it? You hear how they bottom easy but take the small bumps well. This has got me thinking to just get the 121 skid and extend that to a 136. When our speeds picked up, to compensate I would go high in the corners and just slide around like I was on a quad. Odd doing that on a sled.
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Old 01-28-2012, 06:13 PM   #10 (permalink)
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This is exactly how my sled was when I finally got to ride it in UP last weekend. I'm wondering if the M10 is really worth it? You hear how they bottom easy but take the small bumps well. This has got me thinking to just get the 121 skid and extend that to a 136. When our speeds picked up, to compensate I would go high in the corners and just slide around like I was on a quad. Odd doing that on a sled.
Used to be that sliding was pretty much normal. I learned how to drive on sleds like that 40 years ago. Today's sleds are a way different story.... they stick like glue in the corners. It's about keeping them right side up?

The M-10 does what it does (ride great!) by remaining coupled nearly full time - there's not much transfer. Without the transfer - you loose all kinds of traction. That's always been the downside of the M-10 coming out of the hole - and things don't change much going around a corner?

Learn how to ride that loose back end - and driving with the throttle is possible. That's fun for us old timers. Think sprint cars here.... VERY fast sprint cars..... and yes, 2WD quads drive the same way.
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