Primary clutch removal - Page 3 - HCS Snowmobile Forums

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Old 12-03-2019, 09:31 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by XCR1250 View Post
I have never seen an impact wreck a bearing but have heard about it happening, however I have seen cranks twist out a degree or 2 from using an Impact, in the 51 years that I owned a sled and general repair shop (from 1967) I've probably seen less than 10 but still wasn't good. I also worked part time at a Poo/Doo dealer, we never used impacts for removing clutches, I went to Polaris race school in the late 70's where they told us never use impacts to remove clutches. I have many OEM shop manuals, they plainly state, quote:"Caution Do not use an impact wrench or damage to the clutch or crankshaft may occur" Look for yourself in the manuals.

My suggestion is do what works for you and hope it never twists the crank.
I know what the manual says. I also know mechanics love impacts. I'm sure there are dealers who do both. That's why I said ask your dealer and I didn't mean to imply that you did if it sounded that way. I have personally seen shops use impacts my self, especially when busy.

I personally am cheap and borrow Nanner's stub puller and use water.

Without arguing, how does a impact twist a crank? Is the Piston being held by a Piston stop or something? Isn't the crank free to spin? Would it be better if there was no spark plugs in to removing the compression stroke so the crank can spin freely? Like I said I am not arguing, I just truly want to know how it damages it.

I don't even use a impact on my lug nuts on my vehicles because it destroys the shitty plastic fake chrome covers, but that makes sense to me. Crank damage doesn't.

I almost wonder if some of these crank bearings were already damaged or in bad shape pre impact.
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Old 12-04-2019, 07:28 AM   #22 (permalink)
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first thing. put a bit of grease on the tip of the puller. install iot and tighten it good don't over do it. then heat the steel shaft at the fixed sheave with a hand held mapp gas torch. not propane. mapp gas is way hotter. you want it to heat quick. then a good quick rap. not real hard. if nothing let it cool some and re tighten the puller. usually you will get another 1/2-1 full turn. and repeat the above. in most cases it will come off the second round. i have had many pop off right after heating the clutch shaft as i walked away. one yesterday took two times and it came off just as i walked away. and someone had at least 100ft. lbs on the clutch bolt?

if this doesn't work. it's water time. go to our face book NORTHSTAR PERFORMANCE 137 to see how this is done. we have a couple different video's showing how to do this. and yes we use a damaged puller we cut off. this works way better than using a puller. you will see.
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Old 01-11-2020, 05:55 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by northstarrick View Post
first thing. put a bit of grease on the tip of the puller. install iot and tighten it good don't over do it. then heat the steel shaft at the fixed sheave with a hand held mapp gas torch. not propane. mapp gas is way hotter. you want it to heat quick. then a good quick rap. not real hard. if nothing let it cool some and re tighten the puller. usually you will get another 1/2-1 full turn. and repeat the above. in most cases it will come off the second round. i have had many pop off right after heating the clutch shaft as i walked away. one yesterday took two times and it came off just as i walked away. and someone had at least 100ft. lbs on the clutch bolt?

if this doesn't work. it's water time. go to our face book NORTHSTAR PERFORMANCE 137 to see how this is done. we have a couple different video's showing how to do this. and yes we use a damaged puller we cut off. this works way better than using a puller. you will see.
Ok, so I've tried heating the shaft at the fixed sheave and taping on the puller with no luck. I am not sure that I am heating hot enough or tapping hard enough. I have never done this before and am hesitant to go too far and cause damage. I am only using a standard 1/2" socket wrench, not a breaker bar. It seems like I am running out of threads on the puller, so I also hesitate to use a bigger wrench. I have measured as well as probing the hole with a camera. According to the grease marking on the crank I am getting there. I think it is time to try the water method and a longer wrench. Can I do the water method with a puller that is not cut short? I really don't want to buy another one, and it has always worked for me in the past, including on another fusion yesterday.
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Old 01-12-2020, 03:40 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by northstarrick View Post
first thing. put a bit of grease on the tip of the puller. install iot and tighten it good don't over do it. then heat the steel shaft at the fixed sheave with a hand held mapp gas torch. not propane. mapp gas is way hotter. you want it to heat quick. then a good quick rap. not real hard. if nothing let it cool some and re tighten the puller. usually you will get another 1/2-1 full turn. and repeat the above. in most cases it will come off the second round. i have had many pop off right after heating the clutch shaft as i walked away. one yesterday took two times and it came off just as i walked away. and someone had at least 100ft. lbs on the clutch bolt?

if this doesn't work. it's water time. go to our face book NORTHSTAR PERFORMANCE 137 to see how this is done. we have a couple different video's showing how to do this. and yes we use a damaged puller we cut off. this works way better than using a puller. you will see.

I'm not gonna lie, I was a little nervous to try this for some reason. I can't believe how easy that clutch came off using water. I used the normal puller with teflon tape. All I used to tighten it was a standard 1/2" socket wrench. I wasn't even turning hard when it popped.
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Old 01-12-2020, 03:43 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Thanks to everyone that gave advice on this. I tried it all and finally it came free. Glad this experience is over and I learned one more thing from the crew at HCS.

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