Primary clutch removal - Page 2 - HCS Snowmobile Forums

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Old 11-30-2019, 06:44 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Lexuslover View Post
yes, just give it a good tap, DON'T hammer it. You can use water too, but since mines usually on a lift, the grease doesn't run out of the hole. If it was on the ground i'd tip it and use water.
I forgot to try this today. I'll make sure to have this thread open next time.

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Old 11-30-2019, 06:58 PM   #12 (permalink)
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It seems like I'm using all the threads on the puller, and not reaching the back of the crank hole. I tried again today with a little grease on the tip and in the threads as well, but no go. I've used the puller at least a dozen times on my XCs and my Dad's Classic, but I don't remember how deep the threads usually go. I decided to work on a different headache today, so I didn't spend a lot of time on this one. When I lay it down to put the skid back in (after a parts run) I'll try adding water, Teflon tape, and a little heat if it still won't come out. I may wait till I get to use that puller on an XC to see how deep it goes..

I've had them fight to stay on before, but never this bad.

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First do some measuring.
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Old 11-30-2019, 08:57 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I've used a small propane torch at times on a stubborn clutch with the puller as tight as it can go. Get the inner sheaves good and warm, then use a plastic mallet on the clutch with a few light taps. Usually the clutch with pop and come loose.
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Old 12-01-2019, 05:59 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I have seen cranks twist sections, mostly the PTO end when using an Impact, they are only a pressed fit and can twist a degree or 2.
That's why I said high quality gun that puts a real quick load on it.
I cant hardly believe putting a heavy strain on the crank by holding the clutch and turning on the puller is any better....that's always when I see pullers getting bent too.
About 99 percent of the time they pop in about 1 second or less with a good impact.
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Old 12-01-2019, 06:07 PM   #15 (permalink)
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That's why I said high quality gun that puts a real quick load on it.

I cant hardly believe putting a heavy strain on the crank by holding the clutch and turning on the puller is any better....that's always when I see pullers getting bent too.

About 99 percent of the time they pop in about 1 second or less with a good impact.

Is it really any harder than mashing the throttle from a stop or landing on the throttle? Granted the belt should slip but the poor primary end of the crank takes a beating just riding alone.



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Old 12-01-2019, 06:15 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Instead of grease use water. Iíve used grease and it makes a hell of a mess and can get air pockets. I bent the tip of my puller many years ago. So I cut the tip off and use water now. Tip the sled on its side and fill with water. Then use a heavy layer of Teflon tape on the threads of the puller. I always use a impact gun because your not really putting a metal on metal contact on the crank. Just pure hydraulic pressure. Leave the belt on too because when it pops, it comes off with a vengeance.
I've also tried grease a couple times, but found it hard to avoid air pockets.
First I did with water came smashing into the belly pan with quite some force , but later ones I'v paid attention to avoid trapping air and then they come off much gentler. Water wont compress

best thread sealer I've found for this application is loctite sealing cord
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Old 12-01-2019, 06:43 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Is it really any harder than mashing the throttle from a stop or landing on the throttle? Granted the belt should slip but the poor primary end of the crank takes a beating just riding alone.



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Well that's just it . A LOT of cranks get twisted from engines that get flooded with fuel too.
Plus it also seems like the long tracks and heavily studded machines have more crank issues.
Im 48 and probably removed my first clutch around 13.I take off a few a week with an impact and never had an issue.They usually come off in about one second.
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Old 12-02-2019, 10:48 PM   #18 (permalink)
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If you have a good firm grip on the clutch with one hand, keeping it from rotating, while you are hitting the puller with a impact, the hammering effects of the impact are not going to effect the bearings or phasing in any harmful way . If you are not holding the clutch at all, then I could see some potential for harm there .
I jammed my right wrist badly last year while holding the impact with it , when one popped off a 2012 800 with a bang ! Hurt for 6 weeks and I still feel it occasionally a year later .
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Old 12-03-2019, 12:39 AM   #19 (permalink)
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I don't really see how an impact would damage a bearing. From my understanding an impact wrench mostly provids a twisting force with very little downward force.

Ask your dealer what they use to pull clutches. I doubt they waste time on water, grease, or any of those tricks. Mechanics love impacts.

I think one of these suggestions should work for you and are all good options. I like the idea of keeping the belt on to save your clutch and face from getting wrecked.
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Old 12-03-2019, 05:42 AM   #20 (permalink)
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I have never seen an impact wreck a bearing but have heard about it happening, however I have seen cranks twist out a degree or 2 from using an Impact, in the 51 years that I owned a sled and general repair shop (from 1967) I've probably seen less than 10 but still wasn't good. I also worked part time at a Poo/Doo dealer, we never used impacts for removing clutches, I went to Polaris race school in the late 70's where they told us never use impacts to remove clutches. I have many OEM shop manuals, they plainly state, quote:"Caution Do not use an impact wrench or damage to the clutch or crankshaft may occur" Look for yourself in the manuals.

My suggestion is do what works for you and hope it never twists the crank.
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