2012 rush top end - Page 3 - HCS Snowmobile Forums

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Old 02-13-2020, 11:02 AM   #21 (permalink)
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precautionary, but a lot will send their injectors out to be flow tested / cleaned. just a thought
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Old 02-13-2020, 12:21 PM   #22 (permalink)
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precautionary, but a lot will send their injectors out to be flow tested / cleaned. just a thought
Definitely something to consider. I figured at such low miles and about 700 trouble free miles winter last year they would be fine, and i stored it over the off season with ethanol free gas. Is there a service interval they should be cleaned/inspected at?

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Old 02-13-2020, 01:33 PM   #23 (permalink)
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precautionary, but a lot will send their injectors out to be flow tested / cleaned. just a thought
Definitely something to consider. I figured at such low miles and about 700 trouble free miles winter last year they would be fine, and i stored it over the off season with ethanol free gas. Is there a service interval they should be cleaned/inspected at?

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I would pull the whole engine and be doing crank seals, and also making sure no piston material is in the bottom end. Also make sure the throttle body boots aren't leaking, etc.
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Old 02-13-2020, 09:09 PM   #24 (permalink)
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I would pull the whole engine and be doing crank seals, and also making sure no piston material is in the bottom end. Also make sure the throttle body boots aren't leaking, etc.
The motor is out currently, there may be an issue with the rod bearings, so the crank might need to be rebuilt. I might as well do crank seals while I'm there. The piston defintely got very hot, but the coolant never got over 150

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Old 02-13-2020, 11:15 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Does that green oring look like it got pinched at all?I saw a couple of those not installed correctly that had issues.
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Old 02-14-2020, 09:02 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Does that green oring look like it got pinched at all?I saw a couple of those not installed correctly that had issues.
I'll take a look when I get home. Are you saying the o ring could have been crooked and partially blocking the nozzle? I did do the top end with the engine in the first time, now the engine is out so if I did mess it up i shouldnt this time.

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Old 02-14-2020, 05:46 PM   #27 (permalink)
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The green o ring looks like its fine, although it appears that I dented the sleeves on the injectors while removing/installing them. Also, should the injector be discolored like this? Also, everything seems to still have oil on it, so does that basically narrow it down to a fuel/air issue?

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Old 02-15-2020, 01:19 AM   #28 (permalink)
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injector is junk. replace it. when rebuilding these motors take the seat, fuel tank, air box, driven clutch , clutch guard, etc. off. a lot easier to remove injectors,etc. straight shot adjusting oil pump pulling reeds, and injectors without damaging them. work smarter not harder.
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Old 02-15-2020, 10:54 AM   #29 (permalink)
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injector is junk. replace it. when rebuilding these motors take the seat, fuel tank, air box, driven clutch , clutch guard, etc. off. a lot easier to remove injectors,etc. straight shot adjusting oil pump pulling reeds, and injectors without damaging them. work smarter not harder.
I definitely learned my lesson the first time, once I got the tank and the airbox out, I got the engine out real easily. How do i go about replacing the injector? They look like they're epoxied into the harness, so do I have to buy all 4 with the harness or can i send the whole thing out and it remanufactured?

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Old 02-15-2020, 03:09 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Previous Sled(s): 12 PRO R 800 w/ LRTM3 Torque Master engine 2004 PRO X 700
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for my 2012 Pro R 800 i purchased a long rod torque master engine from Indy Specialty. the best thing i ever did. 9500 miles on that engine and still running strong. they also offer a complete fuel injector service.
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