2011 F8 Track Removal - Page 2 - HCS Snowmobile Forums

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Old 01-01-2020, 10:40 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Removing the -1- rotor nut, is easier than removing the -5- bolts that you said you removed holding the caliper. I don't like the idea of the caliper flopping around against the outer side of the tunnel, disturbing things, as you try to fight that track off the drivers. My way, you take one hand and hold the track up against the tunnel, and the shaft will slide toard the Left ( the diamond drive side) Untill it comes out of the caliper and drops out the bottom of the sled.
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Old 01-01-2020, 10:45 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Are the shaft and rotor rusty? Stop and shoot them with penetrating oil if they are.
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Old 01-01-2020, 10:48 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I don't know how to help or direct you in any other way. This is how I've been showing people to do it, since '07, and it is how it was originally outlined in the '07 shop manual.
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Old 01-01-2020, 10:50 PM   #14 (permalink)
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The correct socket for the gold nut is the way to go, but, lots of guys just use a hammer and a large punch to pop it loose. Tighten it the same way. Don't worry about the stake/crimp Mark that's in the nut.
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Old 01-01-2020, 11:17 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Thanks for the help! I'm going Country Cat tomorrow and buying the lock nut tool and new lock nut.

Sadly I won't be able to work on it again until this Saturday (riding this weekend is screwed as a result). Not looking forward to this at all..... I will post back then with an update.

Last edited by TricarboNate; 01-01-2020 at 11:21 PM.
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Old 01-02-2020, 12:00 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Your welcome. You can knock it off with a punch ( as soon as they start to turn, they spin right off easy) and carry the nut to Any autoparts store and they will have the truck hub socket to fit it (either it's a ford socket from the '70s or a GMC socket from the '80s) but their is only 3-4 different sockets likel that and most places still have them. I litterally have re used the same nut probably 20x (that's the exact same nut...on one sled...not 20 nuts on 20 sleds) so I feel pretty confident in telling you you can re use your nut. Put blue thread lock in it if you want. I use antiseize on mine, and on the shaft/bearing/rotor surfaces.
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Old 01-02-2020, 12:05 AM   #17 (permalink)
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There is a spacer inside the caliper between the bearings. It might slide out of alignment whi,e the shaft is out, but you can easily just line things back up with your finger before you pop the shaft back in. Setting the parking brake holds to rotor, so it will stay aligned with the bearings, but if you release the brake it it slides down a little bit, it's easy to realign with the same finger technique. Pretty techy,
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Old 01-04-2020, 03:36 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Well, just got back to working on it.

Rotor nut is removed from shaft.
Brake is locked.
DD is out.
Just trying to remove the driveshaft now....

Doesn't want to move at all. I sprayed a whole can of PB Blaster on both sides of the shaft and am letting it sit now.

Any tips on getting this shaft out besides hammering the piss out of it?
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Old 01-04-2020, 04:48 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Got it out!

Bought a 4lb sledge and used a 2x4 to beat the piss out out of it.
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Old 01-05-2020, 09:24 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Glad you got it. That thing is 8 yeas old...some hammering required. I use to remove those when new and apply antiseize, then they slide out effortlessly by hand after that. Clean the rust off yours, antisieze or grease, it'll be good.
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