IQ 440/800 big block - HCS Snowmobile Forums

440/race/modified This is a brand-specific forum. Posts on this forum are assumed to be questions aimed at similar model owners, and are not looking for comments of a sarcastic or "bashing" nature. Please be aware that if you violate this policy you are in danger of losing your posting privileges on this website.The calling out or posting of another members personal information IE phone number or address is prohibited.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 09-12-2007, 08:05 PM   #1 (permalink)
Super Advanced Member
 
gpxsrx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,219
Current Sled(s): 2015 SR Viper R TX DX
Previous Sled(s): way to many 2 strokes
Location: Ontario
Default

Things to do:
-Order motor plate from Brad (Power Addiction Motorsports,Inc) 1-435-881-6665.
-Remove right rear engine mount.There will be two mounting holes under the mount. Move it to the outside hole closest to the chaincase.Brad plate is set up for that location. You will need 4 spacers for under the motor mount plate 5/16 thick made out of alum or nylon this helps get your C+C 10 5/8".
-Cut lower alum brace between shock towers. I left 1" on either side sticking out. I cut 13 1/2 " out of brace in order to clear water pump housing.
-Next i cut the steering support post on the pto side.I found that i could not get spark plug cap on it was to tight. The total lenght i cut out 12 3/4 ". I also notched out the steel support bar on top in order to service the power valves. What i used for my new steering support bar was a steering post from a Ski-doo Blizzard 5500,7500,9500 from 79 to 81 model year. It was 1" O.D same as the orignal it had a perfect bend. There is more than enough clearance but also it will be easier to drop in the motor. Before you weld it into place make sure to check fitment with cab on.
-Mount motor to Brads motor plate,dont forget to place 4 spacers on the motor mounts first in the chassis. When i mounted the motor to the plate it had no crank or pistons. It a lot easier lifting in and out of chassis. But im sure it can be done with a complete motor. Make sure to have the torque arm bracket mounted on the motor. I used the 440 bracket but it must be turned around the bolt holes must be on the inside of the frame where the torque arm bolts.
-Now its time to pre fit the motor and plate. Place in position and notice where the bottom of the case ans torque arm bracket hit the side of the bulk head. Mark guide line where it is hitting and cut bulk head. Re fit motor and check if you have enough clearance. If you are doing oil injection do the same to the other side to clear oil pump. I went with premix so i did not have to worry about it. Once your happy with the results of the motor sitting in the proper position and have proper clearance.
-Next is the placement of the support bar below the water pump housing. I used 3/4 x3/4 square tube be sure to remove tie rod end rubber boots or they will melt when the bar is being welded. weld everthing up. hope this helps Bruce

Under post # 1 please post these pictures
gpxsrx is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 09-12-2007, 09:27 PM   #2 (permalink)
Super Advanced Member
 
mr.prox's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,571
Current Sled(s): 2013 Pro RMK 800 155"
Previous Sled(s): 800 CFI IQR, 800 IQR, 660 ProX
Location: Your MOM's House
Favorite Riding Area: Off Trail Powder
Riding Since: 1975
Default

you will also need POD airfilters with a big block, i have kickass filters and they just barely clear the jackshaft. bruce is running a tipped up K&N filter, both should work. also get some snoprefilters.
and the pipe of your choice will either need to be custom cut and fit to the chassis unless you find some race twins from the 05 800 racers.
__________________
"Did they weigh it on a ski doo scale without a motor or something" - Chris Burandt talking about the weight of a 2013 pro rmk in a video interview..... priceless!
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
mr.prox is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2007, 09:57 PM   #3 (permalink)
Super Advanced Member
 
bartelma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 306
Current Sled(s): 2011 800 Pro Rush
Previous Sled(s): 2002 800 XC
Location: CT
Age: 41
Riding Since: 2001
Default

All the work looks nice.

I did not have to cut anything for clearance on my 06 IQ. I just ordered the steering post, engine straps and upper support cage for the factory mod from Polaris and then I made 1.5' spacers to go under the block. The engine slides in and can be worked on without issue.

I am thinking of notching and welding the bulkhead to accomidate a oil pump though.
bartelma is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Old 09-13-2007, 03:01 AM   #4 (permalink)
Super Advanced Member
 
HYFLYR's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 883
Default

There you go guys. Thanks for stepping up and making this a thread with pics. I just havent had time, i only step in and check it for a few minutes each day. Do you have your engine in and set ready for a pipe? Where are you at as far as eta or build time into it?
__________________
If your not Boosted, your getting roosted!
HYFLYR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2007, 12:26 PM   #5 (permalink)
Super Advanced Member
 
POLARISXC440's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 581
Current Sled(s): 10 IQR800 DMAX
Previous Sled(s): 2007 IQR 440/600
Location: timmins,ON
Age: 21
Riding Since: 1994
Default

99 xc 600 is a big block too right?
POLARISXC440 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2007, 09:00 PM   #6 (permalink)
Super Advanced Member
 
FactoryAir1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,709
Current Sled(s): 09 IQR
Previous Sled(s): Lots
Location: New Hampshire
Favorite Riding Area: Tight Trees
Default

Quote:
Things to do:
-Order motor plate from Brad (Power Addiction Motorsports,Inc) 1-435-881-6665.
-Remove right rear engine mount.There will be two mounting holes under the mount. Move it to the outside hole closest to the chaincase.Brad plate is set up for that location. You will need 4 spacers for under the motor mount plate 5/16 thick made out of alum or nylon this helps get your C+C 10 5/8".
-Cut lower alum brace between shock towers. I left 1" on either side sticking out. I cut 13 1/2 " out of brace in order to clear water pump housing.
-Next i cut the steering support post on the pto side.I found that i could not get spark plug cap on it was to tight. The total lenght i cut out 12 3/4 ". I also notched out the steel support bar on top in order to service the power valves. What i used for my new steering support bar was a steering post from a Ski-doo Blizzard 5500,7500,9500 from 79 to 81 model year. It was 1" O.D same as the orignal it had a perfect bend. There is more than enough clearance but also it will be easier to drop in the motor. Before you weld it into place make sure to check fitment with cab on.
-Mount motor to Brads motor plate,dont forget to place 4 spacers on the motor mounts first in the chassis. When i mounted the motor to the plate it had no crank or pistons. It a lot easier lifting in and out of chassis. But im sure it can be done with a complete motor. Make sure to have the torque arm bracket mounted on the motor. I used the 440 bracket but it must be turned around the bolt holes must be on the inside of the frame where the torque arm bolts.
-Now its time to pre fit the motor and plate. Place in position and notice where the bottom of the case ans torque arm bracket hit the side of the bulk head. Mark guide line where it is hitting and cut bulk head. Re fit motor and check if you have enough clearance. If you are doing oil injection do the same to the other side to clear oil pump. I went with premix so i did not have to worry about it. Once your happy with the results of the motor sitting in the proper position and have proper clearance.
-Next is the placement of the support bar below the water pump housing. I used 3/4 x3/4 square tube be sure to remove tie rod end rubber boots or they will melt when the bar is being welded. weld everthing up. hope this helps Bruce[/b]

Just thinking out loud here, but if you use 5/16" spacers on all four motor mounts, how does that change the center to center of the clutches? Does it bring the primary closer to the secondary? By how much? Again, not saying it's wrong, if it works for you it works.....just having a hard time seeing how. That and Brad has never mentioned that anyone would have to add spacers when using his motor plate. I haven't asked him specifically, but this is the first time I've heard of the need for spacers with his plate.
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
FactoryAir1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2007, 10:31 AM   #7 (permalink)
Super Advanced Member
 
MBR44's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,450
Current Sled(s): SKS 155 Turbo, Assault 144, Highcountry turbo
Previous Sled(s): 1100 Turbo Outlaw
Location: Gaylord, MI
Default

I had to place 3 spacers under the front mount with brads plate also. He recommends that you put the spacers in the rear mounts but it pushes the c-c off about 1/2". I took them out and placed them in the front and bam perfect. I called him about it and he didn't know but he was happy it is right now.
__________________
Moylan Bros Racing
Tea Cup Racing
MBR44 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2007, 03:26 PM   #8 (permalink)
Super Advanced Member
 
gpxsrx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,219
Current Sled(s): 2015 SR Viper R TX DX
Previous Sled(s): way to many 2 strokes
Location: Ontario
Default

The reason for the 4 5/16 shims under the motor plate is to raise the motor in the chassis. In order for the air filters to clear jackshaft. i used K&N 20 degree angle filters. Without the spacers under the motor plate there is no enough clearance to put any type of filter on carbs. THANKS PETEREPEATER for pointing out the mistake. i tried to edit the post but i have no edit button. Thanks Bruce
gpxsrx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2007, 04:58 PM   #9 (permalink)
Super Advanced Member
 
FactoryAir1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,709
Current Sled(s): 09 IQR
Previous Sled(s): Lots
Location: New Hampshire
Favorite Riding Area: Tight Trees
Default

Quote:
The reason for the 4 5/16 shims under the motor plate is to raise the motor in the chassis. In order for the air filters to clear jackshaft. i used K&N 20 degree angle filters. Without the spacers under the motor plate there is no enough clearance to put any type of filter on carbs. THANKS PETEREPEATER for pointing out the mistake. i tried to edit the post but i have no edit button. Thanks Bruce[/b]

what are you using for carb boots?
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
FactoryAir1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2007, 05:31 PM   #10 (permalink)
Super Advanced Member
 
gpxsrx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,219
Current Sled(s): 2015 SR Viper R TX DX
Previous Sled(s): way to many 2 strokes
Location: Ontario
Default

Quote:
what are you using for carb boots?[/b]
pro x short carb boots
gpxsrx is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:54 PM.



Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.