need help with rear suspension setup with different mounting holes on various parts - Page 6 - HCS Snowmobile Forums

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Old 12-14-2009, 08:00 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Old 03-25-2011, 08:56 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Default Heres the pics again that went away before.

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Old 03-25-2011, 08:57 PM   #53 (permalink)
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"Did they weigh it on a ski doo scale without a motor or something" - Chris Burandt talking about the weight of a 2013 pro rmk in a video interview..... priceless!
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Old 03-21-2012, 08:38 AM   #54 (permalink)
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It'd be great if the pics were back...awesome topic though.
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Old 09-30-2012, 04:53 PM   #55 (permalink)
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It'd be great if the pics were back...awesome topic though.
agreed, pictures help
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Old 12-25-2012, 02:04 PM   #56 (permalink)
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Can anyone update the pics on this?? Would like to follow it to set up my sled...thanks!

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Old 12-28-2012, 03:29 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Can anyone update the pics on this?? Would like to follow it to set up my sled...thanks!

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What specifically are you trying to do/understand. Those pics may not be able to be added. I don't know where they are any more.

For good overall performance your lower rear torque arm should be mounted in the center hole in the rail. On the bottom of the rear shock the pivot arm should also be in the center hole on the "H" bracket.

As far as the front torque arm goes you can use either mounting position on the rail. If your front mounting position is wollered out you can move the bolt and bushing to the rear position in the rail and TA. You may want to make a change to the limiter strap length depending on how you plan to run the sled and how much steering effort you end up with.
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Old 01-01-2013, 06:31 PM   #58 (permalink)
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Just wanted to make sure my sled was setup some where neutral for trail riding.... I know its not gonna ride the best but that's fine. I ride pretty fast on the trail most of the time with a little off trail stuff...
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Old 11-30-2015, 05:03 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Just a recap, if you have an '05 then drill out the front torque arm mounting hole that is one hole lower than stock and have your shocks revlaved. If you trail ride a lot you may want to go to a softer front track spring. Stock was a 160 and many prefer a 140. Revalve IFS shocks to match. '06-'10 use and emulsion shock for the front of the track so you can lower the pressure on that to 150psi and it works well for most. Revalve the rear shock, Revalve IFS shocks to match. '11 and newer, up to '16's now, valving and springs have changed a few times but we still recommend revalving all shocks and changing springs according to your weight. If your rear suspension sags and its all lubed up and there are no broken or bent parts and your shocks are fresh then your torsion springs are shot. They go bad frequently and need replaced way more often then they usually get replaced. Revalving will help you obtain proper weight shift and that will allow you to get better traction on acceleration, braking and overall control especially in the stutter bumps/moguls. Contact me for more info. I love to help when I can.
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