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iq conversions

176K views 397 replies 122 participants last post by  Rileykline13 
#1 ·
Ok guys here i go, i have just read through 2 posts about conversions and thats all this forum is now, so i am going to put in my .02 on what you need to do to make them work.

First- the chassis
- depeneding on the sled year you may need to relocate the rear skid to adjust track attack angle. (2005 model)
- The shocks should be revalved softer and along with that come springs, depending on rider weight and use, pick the lbs for you.( you can ride it without,but its like riding a log) The WE shocks could also use some attention to the internal components as in useing some differnt seals and slight moding of the shaft.
- Extra wheels, you will definitly need extra wheels on the skid if you plan on trail riding the sled, 2 will do but 4 is better. the hardware can all be found polaris parts fiches.
- Spindles, i would reccommend brad (1200psi) power addiction spindles mainly because of workmanship these things are works of art, and very functional. He makes them in several differnt sizes now, the most popluar for trails is the 2'' drop. You can cut and weld the stock spindles.
- Skis, the stock skis with good carbide work well, i am running slp powder pros with 6 shapers and this makes the sled handle a lot more like a trail sled.
- Oil lite bearings and bushings, The front a-arm bushings on the sled need to be maintained and serviced regularly if you want the front suspension to function properly. There have been serveral different fixes for this to elongate the service interval. 1. drill all arm pivots,weld on a small boss and then tap and install grease fittings. 2. (faster fix) same idea as the first one. drill the the a-arms and use a pin stlye grease head and inject them this way. Either one you choose, grease them regualry. This process should be repeated on the rear suspension pivots.
- Driveshaft and Jackshaft bearings. These bearings should be maintained and serviced regulary. To elongate the interval you can drill a small hole similiar to the 2end fix for the a arms and use the needle head to inject in the needle port of the bearings.

Second- motor
- Stock, 600 VES
- Stock 440 mill If you choose to run this motor serveral issues must be addressed.
- Center crank bearing. This is the most common failure on the site and the trail. The fix for the problem comes in 2 methods. 1. oil injection- with oil injection you will need to get the pump, cable and hoses. This is an relitivley easy fix but pricey. Then comes the PTO grease zerk. some leave it alone, and that works just fine. I have seen one mod where he drilled out the zerk threads and installed a check valve to oil the pto bearing this way. If this route is not taken a simple "T" in the oil lines to the center crank bearing will work. Oil tanks are also a well spoken about topic for these sleds. the most popular tank is the US Plastics tank that with a bracket can be easily mounted. Another option is an older indy xcr tank that with an easy bracket can work well. The fusion has also been installed but may not be the best route. 2end fix more commonly known as the rippered fix. With this fix no oil injection is nessecary. In this fix you will need to drill out a second oil passage for the crank bearings, this allows more oil to the crank. PM Ripperd with more ?'s. With oil injection you will need to throttle cable from a 01 440 (for the oil cable)
- 600 VES This motor is a reliable choice
- First the motor needs to be shimmed to allow the carbs to clear the jackshaft. This is accomplished by using pro x carb manifold boots, and placeing a 3/4" spacer between the motor strap and the motor itself (longer bolts needed). Along with the spacer a 1/4" shim needs to be placed between the motor mount and the motor strap. When doing the motor install you will need to remove the PTO ehxaust valve and install it once the motor is in the chassis. With the motor sitting higher the PTO spark plug cap may not fit, to fix you will need to notch the steering hoop to allow clearance. The stock 440 torque will work on this motor. The stock belt will also work with set up. The next step is a choice of the owner, whether to run a thermostat or not. Many guys on here have removed the T stat and blocked off the inlet in the head. This set up works!
if you choose to run a T stat you will need to get a coolent bottle with a bypass hole. A rev tank works well because of the head and angle.
- Air box, Electronics, Clutching and Gearing.
- The stock 440 air box will work. you will need to get your hands on a set of 600 air box carb boots. The jetting of the carbs should be set at stock and then adjusted accordinly.
- The wire harness from the 440 will work with the 600. The only wiring needed is the section from the CDI to motor. If you choose to have the 440 cdi remapped to a different curve then this will not be needed. I dont no if anyone has done this (remap) in my opinion the 600 stock cdi is the best choice.
- The stock clutch will work with the 600. There are many different set ups, my favorite is 10-61 weights (ground down) alomond blue spring, Delerin washers in the secondary, and the stock secondary guts. with the newer 321114 belt.
- Gearing is endless a popular set up is 22/43 with stock chain.
Pipe
- Ah yes the pipe. With the 600 VES a 600 y pipe is needed. A simple mod to the stock system will allow for trouble free miles (PM AKprox pilot, he does this and can answer any question)
- Another choice is a pipe being cut and welded to fit, In my case i had a 600 VES pipe and Dynoport can fit which works.
- As of now there is no stock pipe that fits without modification.
Fuel tank(s)
-NEW polaris tank (about 8.2 gallons)
- Wicked tank (8 gallons)
- The wicked tank fits very well and installs in minutes.
600 HO
- This motor is the easiest swap.
- No shims needed!
- Same pipe situation as the 600 VES
- Similiar clutching and gearing set up
- Same Thermostat issue as 600 VES

This is my snyopsis of the conversion, i own a 06 iq with a 600 ves in it and by far the most fun i have had on a sled.
I am sure i have left something out so feel free to add.

Matt
 
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#2 ·
Great Write Up Matty.

You covered just about everything and pretty much summed it up.

Only one problem I see. We don't want to Elongate or service interval on the bearings we want to Prolong or extend the service interval.....HaHa....I got ya.

Very good, now watch this excellent thread get burried by tomorrow and we will be back to answering every question as they pop up.

Its all fun.

And don't you guys have snow down in America now a days.....you should be out riding.

AkRacing
 
#3 ·
elongate, prolong they both have long in them so it works haha. yea Tom you probably saw my town on tv, about 10 feet of snow here (Oswego,NY) nothing like being at college and having the sled with ya.




And about the questions i give it till tonight. All good information though.
 
#4 ·
Sorry boys but I got through some of that and my mind was a spinning. I am considering, trading my M6 for an 06 iq. Now can I slap low comp domes on this puppy and ride it with pre mix till the cows come home or am I going to be concerned about some crank bearing stuff. Do I need to up the size of the cooler or are the stock ones fine. I know I will need a bigger tank, but it sounds to me like converted over to trail riding this puppy is a little more then I thought. I got a really foolish question but does the dragon ignition thing work with low comp domes. I been trying to read as much as I can in here but haven't been able to dulve into as much of it as I was hoping as I am still not 100% sure if this is a good idea. I really liked it when i test rode it but that was with HC domes. Anyway am I getting in over my head.

thanks

NewfieCat
 
#5 ·
just running pre mix for trails will most likly lead to crank bearing failure, your best bet is to choose between the 2 options stated above and go from there. with the information on this forum and all the guys on here you have nothing to worry about. i would reccomend getting the carb needles from a 01 440, this removes the lean spot in the throttle



matt
 
#6 ·
nice information. having watched this forum for quite a while ive been waiting for someone to do a writeup and compile all this information together. isnt there a way you can sticky a post to the top or something? that would really help keep this good information available since searching for specific things can be tricky. just my thoughts.
 
#7 ·
Nice write up Matt. Now you realize that you are not going to be able to hang out with Tom anymore cuz his longwindedness has obviously rubbed off on you!!!! ha-ha. It would be nice to "sticky" this post to the top, to keep everyone from asking the same questions over and over again. Maybe a little help from the moderator???

Newfie - Unless you're racing an IQ, I would just disconnect the dragon button. If not, you're just asking for trouble. I'm pretty sure that anyone can trail convert these IQ's. Any questions are generally answered by several different guys on here. This is my second year of working on mine. Pay attention to how you take things apart, they go back the same way. However, these things REQUIRE A LOT OF TIME to get ready for trail use. If that's not your idea of fun, then you might want to choose a different sled. But in my opinion, this is the best sled I've owned!! Also, the stock cooler is enough for my 600 ho that I have.
 
#8 ·
haha yea Kerry this will most likly be my one and only long winded post, nothing like wasting some time between classes at college. Im with Kerry on disconnecting the dragon button due to the fact if you dont your chances of eating reed petals is greatly increased.

Matt
 
#9 ·
great sum up by mattys, this should really be pinned in this forum , the same goes for the WE shock info.. it can be a bitch to search for info, especially if you are a greenhorn... a moderator could possibly pinn some kind of info on this with Akiqpilot´s help and all other iq440 pro´s on this site.. :thumbsup:
 
#13 ·
good stuff dudes...awesome work

will put my setup up here as well...05 iq 800 open mod snowcross sled made trailable

- C&A XT skis with polaris mount kit with woodys race carbides
- de-stud stock track
- Powdercoated A-Arms white
- Light Kit
- White Powermadd guards with polaris mount kit
- Rox Sledtreds
- 07 IQ race flap
- Trail Idler Wheel Kit
- Spindles Cut 2"
- Oil pump and lines
- oil bottle
- 2003 800 vertical escape throttle cable
- Racepac Avenger 1 with probes
- 23/43 gearing
- (2) 2.5"slp flowrites, exhaust vent for clutches
- Wikid racin 8 gallon tank


- Engine Tech-Server Racing custom head (cut for my mods and 91 octane safe)
- Head Gaskets
- V Force 3 reeds
- SLP race pipes with engine tech ½" manifold spacers
- K&N filters with snowcharger prefilters
- 2005 Pro-5 Racing Remapped CDI
- 2005 XC 800 carb needles
- 2003 RMK 800 intermediate wiring harness (so i can use the tps)
- WMS/TCP Engine Base Plate
- holtzman ATACC
- billet pull chord handle
-using full snowcross 110 race fuel clutching setup (8000 rpm)
 
#16 ·
Thanks Matty.
I followed your advice/instructions on a 600ves upgrade on an 05 IQ. It worked out mint except for the pipe. I'm still trying to get that figured out. Right now I'm running the 600 Y and the 440 pipe and can. The sled runs great to about 3/4 throttle and then falls on it's face. Hafta get the pipe figured out. This engine rocked when it was nestled in the XCSP.

One note: When I used the the Pro-X carb boots I had carb interference with one carb boot screw on each side. I had to do a little grinding on each carb and I replaced the two hex head screws with flat head screws. Problem solved.

John
 
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