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Old 03-26-2020, 09:27 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Why? More importantly, do you have the skills? You shouldn't have to set the floats unless the wrong needle/seats or parts were installed/misinstalled.

Example: My riding buddy once rebuilt his carbs. It didn't run right. He replaced the stator, still didn't run right. Weeks of trying various things including pistons and rings. Still poor running. Finally, we pulled his rebuilt carbs. Found one of his main jets laying in the float bowl!!!!

Cost him lots of $ before his mistake was discovered.
do I have the skills ? nope but its a good way to learn and I don't have much into the machine LOL
the carb boots needed to be replaced (disintegrating at flange ) so I figured I might as well since it was sitting for a while. The float tabs were visibly different so I looked up spec and set them-
so yes I've wasted some time with it but learned a few things. If I took it to a shop and got it sorted out I suspect it'd cost more than the machine is worth. I absolutely agree that a manual would be good and I'll take him up on that offer .
Thanks for all the help !
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Old 03-26-2020, 09:31 AM   #12 (permalink)
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You can down-load the shop manuals on-line for free.
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Old 03-26-2020, 09:36 AM   #13 (permalink)
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do I have the skills ? nope but its a good way to learn and I don't have much into the machine LOL
the carb boots needed to be replaced (disintegrating at flange ) so I figured I might as well since it was sitting for a while. The float tabs were visibly different so I looked up spec and set them-
so yes I've wasted some time with it but learned a few things. If I took it to a shop and got it sorted out I suspect it'd cost more than the machine is worth.
I absolutely agree that a manual would be good and I'll take him up on that offer .
Thanks for all the help !
Sadly, many folks want to save a few $ and end up learning the hard way. I run a small engine repair shop from home. For at least 30 years. I've worked on engines of all kinds for much longer. I don't need the extra income. I try to teach all my customers how to do their own repairs if they contact me before they waste a lot of $. Some still have to learn the hard way. I could write a best selling book on this.
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Old 03-26-2020, 09:47 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Not directed at OP , agreeing with PI on some people:
/If your only tool is a hammer, everything looks like a nail.
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Old 03-26-2020, 09:48 AM   #15 (permalink)
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yep you are absolutely right ! I knew I was going down a rabbit hole with this LOL
I have another sled which I rode this season so its not like I was down and out. I have a digital VM, going to check the values at plug today -
if this isn't the problem I think I will cut my losses .
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Old 03-26-2020, 02:07 PM   #16 (permalink)
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so back to the carbs, I watched it carefully running on a stand. 1 carb is overflowing out the vent tubes, I suspect flooding that cylinder. Switched carbs l to r and the problem followed. What would you guys be looking for ? needle and seat, choke setting etc
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Old 03-26-2020, 02:11 PM   #17 (permalink)
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so back to the carbs, I watched it carefully running on a stand. 1 carb is overflowing out the vent tubes, I suspect flooding that cylinder. Switched carbs l to r and the problem followed. What would you guys be looking for ? needle and seat, choke setting etc
Pressure test it.
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Old 03-26-2020, 02:54 PM   #18 (permalink)
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so back to the carbs, I watched it carefully running on a stand. 1 carb is overflowing out the vent tubes, I suspect flooding that cylinder. Switched carbs l to r and the problem followed. What would you guys be looking for ? needle and seat, choke setting etc
Could be anything from leaky floats, improperly set float level to a bad needle/seat assembly...or maybe some crap stuck under the needle. Bad or poorly set chokes will make a sled run rich or foul the plug.
On another note, careful what carb boots that you buy for replacements. Kimpex for one brand are junk. Their too hard. Imo, try to buy genuine mikuni boots if still available.
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Old 03-26-2020, 05:10 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Location: SE Lower Michigan
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so back to the carbs, I watched it carefully running on a stand. 1 carb is overflowing out the vent tubes, I suspect flooding that cylinder. Switched carbs l to r and the problem followed. What would you guys be looking for ? needle and seat, choke setting etc
I'm guessing that you set one float too high. If so, pressure testing by turning carb upside down and applying 5 psi of air pressure to the fuel inlet won't show the problem.

Instead, test rightside up in a vise using fuel poured into a clear fuel line till full when held alongside the carb and vertically. Include a tee with a low pressure gauge in the line. Add up to 5-6 psi air pressure and watch fuel level drop a bit as it fills the bowl. If it keeps dropping and starts to leak out of various orifices, stop. Then drain fuel, removes float bowl and check with just air pressure while holding it upside down. Spray WD-40, etc around all places it may be leaking while under pressure. If no leaks are seen, then float is likely set too high or float is full of fuel and can't rise enough (Low buoyancy) to close needle/seat.
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Old 03-26-2020, 09:25 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Gotcha, I'll have to run it on a stand until it fails and then check . Unfortunately the little snow cover we had is gone.
I cleaned and rebuilt the carbs and set the floats recently... But you mentioned plugged bowl vent hoses ? come to think of it I think they have plastic plugs in them, could that be an issue ?
On your rebuild did you replace needle and seat? If so did you use genuine Mikuni parts or some other brand? There are some cheap ones out there that aren't worth installing.
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