Please Help---2000 Polaris 700 XC Antifreeze - Page 2 - HCS Snowmobile Forums

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Old 12-17-2012, 10:18 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Thanks everyone for all the help and tips, I will follow up with everyone with what I find.
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Old 12-18-2012, 08:23 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by rabbi View Post
Actually, with at least 50/50 antifreeze, the boiling point of coolant is way the other side of 250 with no pressure on the cooling system. Raising the boiling point isn't the main reason for pressurizing the cooling system.
Not quite true.

HowStuffWorks "How Car Cooling Systems Work"

Antifreeze - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Things you should know about coolant – hellafunctional

Antifreeze Facts
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Old 12-18-2012, 08:46 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I stand corrected, it would take 70/30 to reach 250 degrees.
Riding an AXYS, pure adrenalin!
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Old 12-19-2012, 06:52 AM   #14 (permalink)
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FWIW.........I also believe you have anti-freeze in the case/pipe(s) as
I experienced this same dilemna after a truck head rebuild with anti-freeze running into the exhaust manifold when I took it apart.Had it smokin' for quite awhile idling,then took it for a short highway run,then it got hot enough to burn it all out and the smoking stopped.Hope your luck is the same.
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Old 12-21-2012, 10:47 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Everyone, today I took a day of vacation at work, decided to take the 700 XC out, did not want to go by myself but noone else was around, The sled worked wonderfully, although I took it easy at first, I constantly was checked my reservoir, it held level, smoke got less and less smell slowly went away, I rode for about 1.5 hrs, all seems well, it appears you were right, anti freeze in places it shouldn't be takes a while to burn off, I want to thank everyone for help that was provided, Brian
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Old 12-22-2012, 04:20 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Outbound86 View Post
Here is what I do and I am sure the naysayers will come out of the woodwork -- let the arrows fly!! "It can't be done", but I have been doing it for years without problems. Take you rad cap off and remove the small rubber gasket - the center one to relieve pressure from the system. The reason for the pressure is to allow for temps over 212f -- if you sled gets that hot or more you have other problems that you need to solve. I run zero pressure in five diesels and three cars plus sleds and other water cooled engines. If I lived in NY city I would run pressure due to hot days in traffic with A/C and slow motor speeds, but I live in areas that I don't sit in traffic. Why would I want to put pressure on my gaskets and hoses and then ride deep into the woods -- done right they should hold up but why do this when the motor runs fine without pressure. I know - I know, the engineers from Poo, Doo and etc said that you need the pressure cap --- fine, and when you get leaks it will give you something to think about.
Ahh yes... I love conventional, fact(less) backed sage advice.

The pressure cap does more than just raise the boiling point.

When you raise the pressure of a cooling system, you help keep away localized hotspots (boiling) and reduce or eliminate cavitation. In some applications, cavitation can be induced by simply lowering the system pressure a pound or two from it's designed pressure.

Removing the seals in a pressure cap is ill advised, especially in a diesel application.

FWIW I've seen the results of cavitation in several cars/trucks. It is characterized by pock marks and/or erosion of metal surfaces. In extreme cases, it can eat through diesel liners, destroy water pump impellers, housing as well as blocks.

Spend more than 30 seconds and search out cavitation damage on Google and you'll understand.

If you're having problems or think you're going to have a problem with coolant leakage, FIX the damn problem, don't circumvent other systems or half ass a fix and you should damn well not give out false info to others so they could potentially damage their engines!

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