what tools are required to remove the jackshaft to replace bearings - Page 3 - HCS Snowmobile Forums

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Old 06-09-2019, 09:29 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by too slow View Post
Save your money and go with the all balls bearing. They last just as well for a lot less.
think that's what royal sold me. good to have spares anyway.throw em in the pile of other assorted edge parts in the shed for now i spose lol.
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Old 06-09-2019, 09:31 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Lexuslover View Post
bro, you need to swing that shit over here to Manitoba, we'll drink some locally made Crown Royal (with ginger or coke) and bust that beast up and fix it right. Talk shit about that asswhip Trudeau then, hug, high five, chest bump and i'll get your ass outta my shop. It's easy as shit, just come by. lol
if you were local my buddy id be already on the way with a 2-4 and a crate full of parts
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Old 06-09-2019, 09:46 PM   #23 (permalink)
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You can buy the driveshaft bearing kit from all balls part# 14-1004. You get both bearings seals, and hardware for around $25. Removing the driveshaft on this sled is simple and straight forward. Pulling the rear skid takes more time.
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Old 06-09-2019, 09:59 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by too slow View Post
You can buy the driveshaft bearing kit from all balls part# 14-1004. You get both bearings seals, and hardware for around $25. Removing the driveshaft on this sled is simple and straight forward. Pulling the rear skid takes more time.
so the best way to remove the skid from what i gather is ;


loosen the 4 bolts holding the skid to the tunnel

shut the fuel off

tip er up on its left side

loosen off the track tension bolts all the way

take tension off the torsion springs

pull front out first

swear a lot

about right?


i didn't loosen the track or take the tension off the springs when i removed the skid from the rmk last year in minus 10 outside...fun times.not thinking at all.
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Old 06-10-2019, 08:55 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ZR 800 efi View Post
so the best way to remove the skid from what i gather is ;


loosen the 4 bolts holding the skid to the tunnel

shut the fuel off

tip er up on its left side

loosen off the track tension bolts all the way

take tension off the torsion springs

pull front out first

swear a lot

about right?


i didn't loosen the track or take the tension off the springs when i removed the skid from the rmk last year in minus 10 outside...fun times.not thinking at all.
Yeah, but not necessarily in that order. Helps to have a couple cold ones nearby.
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Old 06-10-2019, 12:17 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by too slow View Post
Yeah, but not necessarily in that order. Helps to have a couple cold ones nearby.

for sure.
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Old 06-10-2019, 11:46 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by too slow View Post
You can buy the driveshaft bearing kit from all balls part# 14-1004. You get both bearings seals, and hardware for around $25. Removing the driveshaft on this sled is simple and straight forward. Pulling the rear skid takes more time.
to me , the driveshaft bearing on the chaincase side looks fine.

dunno wtf to think of the clutch side driveshaft bearing but it looks like water got in there cause it looks like cotton candy mixed with choclate mousse which cant be a good sign lol.water definitely got in there be my guess.





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Old 06-10-2019, 11:55 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Some factory grease is purple, and if you or someone greased it they probably used store bought grease which normally is darker.
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Old 06-11-2019, 12:28 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by XCR1250 View Post
Some factory grease is purple, and if you or someone greased it they probably used store bought grease which normally is darker.
This is correct.
Polaris factory grease is purple.
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Old 06-11-2019, 06:22 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Current Sled(s): 2007 Dragon 700 ////05' switchback 600
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19-20 Mileage:
18-19 Mileage: not enough
17-18 Mileage: not enough
16-17 Mileage: not enough
Age: 5
Riding Since: 1990
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the noise in the jackshaft sounds like the pads touching the disc or something?partially stuck on maybe?they should auto adjust as the pads wear no?

normal operation or should I be concerned?
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