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Old 05-17-2019, 05:13 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I had a 05 XC 800 I 136ed. Traction was night and day over a 121. On trail never noticed a difference. If you want to do top end runs on the lake I'd go for 136 hacksaw with studs. A deeper lug will slow you down on the top end. Short runs a taller track is better.
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Old 05-17-2019, 05:19 PM   #22 (permalink)
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You can't think of a track length like tire diameter. The tire in this case is the drive sprockets on the driveshaft. It's still the same size no matter what track it's turning.
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Old 05-17-2019, 07:40 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by too slow View Post
Not sold on c&a skis, a buddy ran them, can't recall what model he had, i think he said they were razors or something, but said the steering was very heavy and took too much effort after a long trail day, wished for something else. He put some slp slt skis on his 136 stretch prox...says its the best improvement you can do for a sled thats been stretched to 136. I took his advice for my 121'' edge and ordered a bunch of the skis components .....we'll see next season what difference they make compared to the stock skis which i was perfectly happy with till one cracked pretty good.
can't speak on the razors , I know the mtx c and a's are like you said, brutal steering effort. the c and a trail skis 6 ' wides with a 6 ' cardbide are as near a perfect balance ive ever felt in a set of skis.made my 144 rail like a 121 and the effort wasn't brutal at all.


its all in the thickness of keel.I love my c and a trails.wouldn't go back to a factory edge ski .wouldn't consider it.(hence my other thread about switching my dragons over to my switch before I sell the dragon).

I still have a set of 7 ' powder hounds I picked up a month ago that I may try also.
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Old 05-17-2019, 09:01 PM   #24 (permalink)
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SLP powder pros on my edge worked great on trail and off.
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Old 05-18-2019, 08:46 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Don't know about all c&a's or newer ones but i saw a hard seasons results on an older pair where the ski bolt mounting holes were all egged out in the skis plastic where they mount to the plate, making the skis sloppy, basically junk. I wasn't impressed.
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Old 05-18-2019, 09:27 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Some guys who run longer tracks for racing will port the track to lose some rotating mass.
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Old 05-18-2019, 11:04 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Don't know about all c&a's or newer ones but i saw a hard seasons results on an older pair where the ski bolt mounting holes were all egged out in the skis plastic where they mount to the plate, making the skis sloppy, basically junk. I wasn't impressed.
seen no sign of it on both pairs ive owned? maybe they didn't use the proper sized bolt?
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Old 05-18-2019, 12:33 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Well I guess I'll either look for a 136 or I'll keep it 121 dont think I wanna lose top end. We race on flat fields about 1/4 mile so I dont think it would be worth it. I'll probably save the money and time and just keep the 121 I got. If i want a longer one i could just buy a different sled. Made with a 144 and maybe reverse too. I will look for some skis later on I'm happy with how she rides now.
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Old 05-18-2019, 02:50 PM   #29 (permalink)
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seen no sign of it on both pairs ive owned? maybe they didn't use the proper sized bolt?
They were off a
semi pro snocross racers sled here. I realize not all of us can ride that hard.
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Old 05-18-2019, 04:09 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neverfinished800 View Post
Well I guess I'll either look for a 136 or I'll keep it 121 dont think I wanna lose top end. We race on flat fields about 1/4 mile so I dont think it would be worth it. I'll probably save the money and time and just keep the 121 I got. If i want a longer one i could just buy a different sled. Made with a 144 and maybe reverse too. I will look for some skis later on I'm happy with how she rides now.
in a 1/4 you wouldn't lose much i wouldnt think.


if top end is paramount go with a low lug height track , like a 1 inch or less and a few picks.
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