New to me 2004 F6 Firecat, 3,600 miles - HCS Snowmobile Forums

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Old 02-04-2020, 02:52 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default New to me 2004 F6 Firecat, 3,600 miles

Anything in particular I need to know about these machines? Coming off of a 98' ZL500 carburetor so it's an upgrade for me, I knew that machine inside and so i'd like to get up to speed with the common issues with these ones.

It's lightly used and I feel like I got a great deal on it.
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Old 02-04-2020, 03:12 PM   #2 (permalink)
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If you maintained your ZL, the f6 won't need much different as far as maintenance goes. You can clean the exhaust valves, and maybe check the bulkhead for cracking around where the sway bar tubes are welded on and just rearward of them. Remove rear clutch, lubricate the shaft, inspect oil line behind it for visible leakage
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Old 02-04-2020, 03:20 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stronger800 View Post
If you maintained your ZL, the f6 won't need much different as far as maintenance goes. You can clean the exhaust valves, and maybe check the bulkhead for cracking around where the sway bar tubes are welded on and just rearward of them. Remove rear clutch, lubricate the shaft, inspect oil line behind it for visible leakage
The old ZL was carburetor w/ no power valves so the exhaust valves is a new thing to me, seems pretty straight forward though. Any tips to cleaning those?

By rear clutch you mean the secondary, correct? What do you suggest using? I had put grease on my ZL's shaft and after I did it I read mixed reviews about leaving it bare metal so it doesn't get seized on there... I wasn't sure if thats correct or not.

How about the axle drive bearings on these, prone to go? Anyone of knowing their bad other than pulling the skid? I just did the ones on my ZL and you know to check from the speedo pin breaking but since this is digital dash i'm assuming it doesn't work the same.
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Old 02-05-2020, 01:59 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larueminati View Post
The old ZL was carburetor w/ no power valves so the exhaust valves is a new thing to me, seems pretty straight forward though. Any tips to cleaning those?

By rear clutch you mean the secondary, correct? What do you suggest using? I had put grease on my ZL's shaft and after I did it I read mixed reviews about leaving it bare metal so it doesn't get seized on there... I wasn't sure if thats correct or not.

How about the axle drive bearings on these, prone to go? Anyone of knowing their bad other than pulling the skid? I just did the ones on my ZL and you know to check from the speedo pin breaking but since this is digital dash i'm assuming it doesn't work the same.
yes a sensor on the fireboat for the speedo ...like stronger said all ur regular maintanance ..if it was me i would pull out the suspension and just check /repack or change all the suspension bearings as needed along with the hyfax..the rear spring sliders are gonna be worn ..while the suspension is out u can check the drive bearings ..all good insurance for peace of mind ...sled is 16 yrs old ...3500 miles on the clutches is not too bad for the chain case models ..i would just pop them off and inspect and blow / clean them up ...check the throttle body boots for cracks ..
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Old 02-07-2020, 12:02 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Good explanation there teaser61.
I always put Some lubrication, light, anything, on the Jack shaft where the secondary rides. just a wipe of oil or grease, then wipe most of it off, you don't want it flying out and getting in the belt. Do it once a season, and you won't be postng a "stuck secondary" thread like we get here pretty frequently. Pull the skid. Pull the clutches. Pull the exhaust valves, it's really just those two 10mm bolts and out they come. Note their orientation. Flop them over a towel, right there in the engine, few minutes with a scotch Brite pad and carb cleaner....or a zip wheel on a power tool...and put them back in. The gaskets are metal, and don't need to be replaced. There are springs above the valve, they stay right in place, just look that they are not rusted or broken. If you want to be good, re install the valves, then remove the cables on the other end at the servo motor, again, note their orientation, and verify that the cables measure the same length. You can google a spec. Also pull thrm by hand and feel that they open and close the valves freely and smooth. A frayed, rusted, broken cable will rob like all of your hp.
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Old 02-07-2020, 08:48 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stronger800 View Post
Good explanation there teaser61.
I always put Some lubrication, light, anything, on the Jack shaft where the secondary rides. just a wipe of oil or grease, then wipe most of it off, you don't want it flying out and getting in the belt. Do it once a season, and you won't be postng a "stuck secondary" thread like we get here pretty frequently. Pull the skid. Pull the clutches. Pull the exhaust valves, it's really just those two 10mm bolts and out they come. Note their orientation. Flop them over a towel, right there in the engine, few minutes with a scotch Brite pad and carb cleaner....or a zip wheel on a power tool...and put them back in. The gaskets are metal, and don't need to be replaced. There are springs above the valve, they stay right in place, just look that they are not rusted or broken. If you want to be good, re install the valves, then remove the cables on the other end at the servo motor, again, note their orientation, and verify that the cables measure the same length. You can google a spec. Also pull thrm by hand and feel that they open and close the valves freely and smooth. A frayed, rusted, broken cable will rob like all of your hp.
Good info, I was wondering how to clean the powervalves!
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Old 02-07-2020, 09:06 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Should be O-Rings (#18) on each side of the secondary clutch to keep the grease contained if you lube up the secondary shaft, but as Stronger said, don't be too generous.

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Old 02-07-2020, 01:43 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Should be O-Rings (#18) on each side of the secondary clutch to keep the grease contained if you lube up the secondary shaft, but as Stronger said, don't be too generous.

Thanks! I’ll check for the O-Rings. I greased the shaft on my ZL so I will do it again on this machine.
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Old 02-09-2020, 06:53 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Pull the seat. One nut in trunk and check for cracks in the frame. Make sure bulletins were taken care of. Fuel tank, steering, hose protection under engine. Firecat run hot. Install ice scratchers. Best thing I ever did on mine was install a boss seat
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Old 02-09-2020, 09:12 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Pull the seat. One nut in trunk and check for cracks in the frame. Make sure bulletins were taken care of. Fuel tank, steering, hose protection under engine. Firecat run hot. Install ice scratchers. Best thing I ever did on mine was install a boss seat
I did pull the seat and the tunnel supports wernt installed, on arctichat they were saying that was only for 03 but Is it 03-04? The 05’s came with it installed I guess?

The fuel tank neck doesnt appear to be cracked, the neck where the fill cap screws on to right? I think thats what the bulliten was?

The steering bracket was done.

I’m going to pull the belly pan to check the hose and add protection if it hasnt been done. The coolent res is an inch below the cold level so i’m suspect. I got it from an AC dealer and it went though their shop supposedly.

It has cable scratchers installed already.

I read another recall about a bulkhead reinforcement where the sway bar butts in, it’s prone to cracking? Neither side on mine is cracked
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