04 F7 Helix issue ? - HCS Snowmobile Forums

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Old 01-19-2020, 11:57 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 04 F7 Helix issue ?

Hi guys,I picked up a 04 F7 and have a issue. It runs great on the trails. My problem occurs on high speed runs. If I start out dead stop or fairly slowly and hammer on it it goes like a banshee, but if I back off a little and hammer it again it will burble and sputter till climbing out of it. My question is - could the secondary cause this if it's not back-shifting due to soft spring or wrong helix ? It acts like fuel issue but runs too clean at all times for me to accept that. It only does it at say 70-80 mph when I let off and then peg it again? Anybody else experiance this? It has a D&D or Speedwerx helix that shifts out fast.Any idea's ?
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Old 01-19-2020, 01:05 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I went through this same scenario last year. Thought it was clutching. But kinda felt it could be fuel. If the sled is efi then I would put money on your problem is smart valves sticking. Some guys disconnect the tss also. But weak smart valve springs is where I would start. Fixed mine with springs from a bic pen. Lol
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Old 01-19-2020, 01:06 PM   #3 (permalink)
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If carbs. Start with unplugging tss
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Old 01-19-2020, 01:08 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zr8rider View Post
If carbs. Start with unplugging tss

It's efi
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Old 01-19-2020, 01:50 PM   #5 (permalink)
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It could very possibly be the secondary clutch bushing, been there. Check the bushing in the secondary they get sloppy and even spin out.
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Old 01-19-2020, 05:04 PM   #6 (permalink)
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How many miles? When I wore out 2 secondary clutches the symptoms were the same. The clutch would get stuck in a slightly open position and not grab the belt. Sounded like I stripped out the diamond drive. Awful noise. Worked fine trail riding. Get off trail into deep snow and it wouldn’t move. Both went at 4500 miles. Replaced the first time. Had rebuilt by Mel the second time
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Old 01-19-2020, 07:23 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I dont think 04 were diamond drive yet, but I would bet the clutching is fine if its d and d or speedwerx stuff should work better than what he is saying or else it would have been changed out, unless belt is whipped, probably smart valves like what was suggested,
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Old 01-19-2020, 09:52 PM   #8 (permalink)
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yeah the sled has 3500 miles. I've only put 80 miles on since purchase. It's in great condition,new primary,etc. I'll check the smart valves first thing. Going to put it up on a stand and let her sing and check clutch action, not sure about the backshift. I think it's helix'ed to get into top gear quick but it doesn't down-shift fast enough when I let off and then mash it again. Usually this causes a bog but this machine spits and sputters like fuel. I'll be going to the cabin where the sled is this week and be able to spend some diagnosis time. I want to Thank You for responding.
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Old 01-20-2020, 10:46 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Like you're thinking, heavy/aggressive clutching would make it be sluggish or boggy midrange (set up for shifting Out....not backshifting) but if you're motor is sputtering...its a fuel issue. Wouldn't hurt to look at the reeds and check the APV valves n cables either.
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Old 01-21-2020, 11:04 AM   #10 (permalink)
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check for oil in the accordion just before throttle body very comin issue
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