Boondocker on a stock 2003 f7? - HCS Snowmobile Forums

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Old 01-06-2018, 05:36 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Boondocker on a stock 2003 f7?

The racing association around here allows boondockers and bigger injectors on efi sleds for the stock class.

How much more power can you get out of a boondocker? Can you add and subtract both fuel and timing?

I was thinking of running a fuel reducer and that was it on my 03.for starters i will make a run bone sock as it pulls pretty hard.

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Old 01-06-2018, 06:10 PM   #2 (permalink)
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No on the timing , Boodocker is a fuel controller that changes dwell time on the injectors. If you want improvements for racing find a grass 20 box.Plug and play make sure you run good fuel and add weight to clutch.This would be for short (400'-1000')runs.That box is timing and fuel Not trail friendly.
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Old 01-06-2018, 06:11 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harmonysnowmobiler View Post
No on the timing , Boodocker is a fuel controller that changes dwell time on the injectors. If you want improvements for racing find a grass 20 box.Plug and play make sure you run good fuel and add weight to clutch.This would be for short (400'-1000')runs.That box is timing and fuel Not trail friendly.
Can it survive snow drags on 94 octane? 660-1000 ft?

With the grass box would i need completely different clutching? Primary weights/spring,helix and secondary spring?

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Old 01-06-2018, 06:44 PM   #4 (permalink)
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We ran ours in snow drags.We ran 100 octane. Long pulls in heavy wet snow will melt the pistons on the exhaust side.I'm sure there are many opinions on clutching but I add weight in the primary. I think stock was like 63.5 grams and we run in the neighborhood of 68g for snow you want a lower engagement so the stock spring is not a bad starting point, but the spring should be new, old springs can leave you w/ inconsistent results.I think almost everyone was running a progressive rate 52/38 or very similar and a slightly stiffer spring(new).
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Old 01-07-2018, 11:47 PM   #5 (permalink)
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The organization also allows you to tie down the suspension. Where abouts on the rear skid do you run the chain? Front shock in skid as soft as can be? Limiter straps loosen 1 hole?
Can you remove the rear couplers if running studs?
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Old 01-08-2018, 08:10 AM   #6 (permalink)
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There so much more to it than you can imagine. Strap it off the rear scissor. Strap front shocks. Pull fri to straps up til the track sits flat. Thrn it still won't be right, so you have yo go test it and adjust. Then go to a race, and pay attention to what the fast sleds look like. They won't have straps. They will have custom shimmed, shortened, and revalved shocks. Which is the correct and legal way.
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Old 01-08-2018, 08:11 AM   #7 (permalink)
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You talking snow, or ice/grass?
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Old 01-08-2018, 08:16 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Snow drags.

Rules say oem suspension in oem holes,but strapping down is permitted. I assume cant change out suspension parts.

Sitting on a cement floor i noticed the front of the track doesn't really touch the floor.

I tightened up the belt deflection,so the belt rides about 1/8 inch overtop of the secondary.now that its getting all power at take off to the ground it has trouble hooking on really hard packed.

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