So I removed my rear suspension and just taking it out was a royal pain in the A$$! I took it out to be painted, replace springs and hyfax etc.... When I went to install it I installed the forward arm in to the tunnel all by itself. I wired it to the track to keep it out of my way. I then slid the other half of the suspension into place. I propped the track and suspension up with one of my ski dollies and a 2x4 on edge which held it at the perfect height. I pulled back on the suspension and ligned up the right rear mount bolt and got it started. For the left side it is handy to have a hot wife or girlfriend to help you out, so if you don't have one get one. I had to put my foot on the coil of the left rear spring and push back while holding the runner board and then my wife installed the bolt. Next I installed the forward arm to the suspension. To get this to line up you have to put weight on the rear of the sled, but it does not take much, bolts slide in. Next is the mounting of the forward shock. To get this to line up you need to stick a jack under just the front end of the rear suspension and jack till it lines up. While it is in this position install your limiter straps while there is slack in them. Thats it now just adjust your track tension and your done. It was a thousand times easier then by the book. :beer_cheers:
I just install my skid with the sping tension off, muscle it into place to get the bolts started..tighten it all down and pop the springs on. Doesn't take long once you get the hang of it.
I just install my skid with the sping tension off, muscle it into place to get the bolts started..tighten it all down and pop the springs on. Doesn't take long once you get the hang of it.[/b]
hmm...i owned a zr800.....and yes the springs have to be on the top mount...but the don't need to be on the bottum and loaded...you MUST relieve the tension on them to get it in...I cut the tops off of my spring holders...makes them way easier to just lift up and over..rather than fighting with lining up a bolt. All Polaris don't have the tops..and I haven't had a problem yet
Or strap suspension arms to the same distance as tunnel bolt holes, then just set the sled on one side, pull out the track, drop in suspension, fasten front bolt then rear, set on other side and repeat, done.
hmm...i owned a zr800.....and yes the springs have to be on the top mount...but the don't need to be on the bottum and loaded...you MUST relieve the tension on them to get it in...I cut the tops off of my spring holders...makes them way easier to just lift up and over..rather than fighting with lining up a bolt. All Polaris don't have the tops..and I haven't had a problem yet[/b]
Next is the mounting of the forward shock. To get this to line up you need to stick a jack under just the front end of the rear suspension and jack till it lines up. While it is in this position install your limiter straps while there is slack in them[/b]
You do all that after installation? That sounds difficult. Mines all together before I throw it back under the sled. The only thing I leave loose is the rear springs. If the spring blocks are on a solid axle for the shock mount, I slide a rod through to keep it in place and then use the actual bolt to push it back but I didn't think the ZR CCE had that kind of setup.
Like said above, I also cut the tops of the bottom spring retainers so I can put the skid in then pop the springs over and into the blocks afterwards. It definately makes the job easier when doing it alone.
I just install my skid with the sping tension off, muscle it into place to get the bolts started..tighten it all down and pop the springs on. Doesn't take long once you get the hang of it.[/b]
Ditto. I have replaced the rod that goes through that portion of the suspension with a threaded rod and cut a grove in each end so you can put a straight blade screw driver on it when tightening the other side. It allows you to take both springs off of it when putting the suspension back in.
they are talking about the spring slides.......same here, suspension is completely together before it goes in, cut the tops off the rear spring slides so that you can just pop them on after all 4 tunnel bolts are in......can do it by myself in about 20 minutes inlc. adjusting track.......learned about it on here about 5 years ago and been doing it since on 5 sleds without an issue
hmm...i owned a zr800.....and yes the springs have to be on the top mount...but the don't need to be on the bottum and loaded...you MUST relieve the tension on them to get it in...I cut the tops off of my spring holders...makes them way easier to just lift up and over..rather than fighting with lining up a bolt. All Polaris don't have the tops..and I haven't had a problem yet[/b]
I leave my front arm seperated from the skid and install it first in the tunnel. Then I slide the skid into place, install the front arm to the skid. I use that as a pivot to line the rear mount bolts up and then connect the front shock and then compress the suspension to install limiter straps. Works pretty well.
I think a lot of readers would be more impressed by seeing a pic or two of the cut slider holders... basically just a slot in the top of the plastic spring slider to allow the spring rod to snap in! When I first heard about it I was somewhat apprehensive on hacksawing some plastic holders.It has been the best suggestion on fitting of the rear skid... takes all the 'fight' out of it! Myself, I have the rear of the sled hoisted up (not too far), and the track pulled to the rear (rope). 10 minute 'slip in' of the skid, front mount bolts 1st, then rear, then lift/tension the springs and let the spring rods slip back into the sliders... Been doing it for years.... never had a problem. Unfortunately, I don't have any pics... Make sure your frt drive sprocket cogs are in the track slots, gives you an extra inch or two of fitment play!!!
best,
Sandy
I never flip the sled on its side to pull the skid or put it in...just use my jack roller snowmobile dolly,a homemade stand,and a ratchet strap....that dolly makes thing so easy
Easiest way I have found is to remove the rear-arm to rail bolt. Once the skid is in the tunnel, you can easily line up the front and the rear bolt holes and install the hardware easily. Then all that is needed is to bring the rear arm forward enough to the hole it needs to mount to.
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