Why isn't there more of these helixes? seems like the low third angle might really help top end as well as running a little steeper in the middle for a harder pull. I just ordered this one and i was wondering why its the only one listed??

i run 70/44/.46 they are the helix off the 03 pro x 440 liquids. thats what mine is from, and just get it at the dealer. also has 66/44/.46 on it.

Team , slp, EPI and HSP all have piles of angles and combos. On a 700 you may find the 46 finish angle and higher is to much finish angle, the 700's dont have the TQ the 800 and larger motors do!

what is the cost for a new helix? Just curious in case I want to change.

I think he's talking about team helix #420719.

$99 for a helix. $109 for the LW helix's. :augen41:

yes nickels thats the one i mean. Theres 3 physical angles not 2 angles. both have a finish angle of 42. Im not sure of the length of the first, if its .46 or not?

70-44.46 er the .46 isnt a angle its the distance the first angle runs befor the 2nd angle starts.... so the 70* runs for .46" then changes over to a 44*. get it?

xc-mark
70-44.46 er the .46 isnt a angle its the distance the first angle runs befor the 2nd angle starts.... so the 70* runs for .46" then changes over to a 44*. get it?

your right

but he,s talking about 3 angle helixs finishing with a 42

How can i put this any clearer i said 3 angles not 2 get it???????????????
Im not stupid i know how a helix works and i know what .46 is now read it again one more time (from the top)

420719 helix 66-44-42ER(.46/.25/.25) 70-46-42ER(.46/.25/.25)

There is also another one like this 420720
66-44-42ER(.46/.25/.25) 70-48-44ER(.46/.25/.25)

there it is, i was looking for those, does that make more sense?

I'm not sure why there aren't more of these type helix's. They came out with the two of them last winter. I'm using the 420719 helix myself.

Call Micro- Belmont in MI. or performance clutching in Baldwin WI. they will make anything you want

They are making Team helix's?

Has anyone tryed the SLP 66/44.56-54/42 F helix ?

The 420720 on my piped 700, 70-48-44. Runs strong.

I haven't tried any full progressive helix's with the team yet. I think I might try one this year. :cn:

I have one on order just wondering if anyones tuned with them yeath. I only have to wait 3 months before i can start testing. :banghead:

I tried a full progressive last year 52-42F? i think, Lots of bog when dropping into powder, seems like you need a lot of power to run these, or big springs.


Nickels, are you stock? what do you run for spring, how about the primary?

i guess a full shift out occurs in under one inch of travel?? .46+.25+.25??

Bone stock :smilielol: I have ran red/grey, red/blue,red/black,and black/red. Primary 165/310 titanium spring,64gm and 66gm weights.

I think I am running a red/black with the 420719 helix and 66gm weights. Team said they used stock weights, but I was over reving with 64's.

yea, your stock :beerchug:

oops

Full progressives work great for open trail and lake riding, you can get decent backshift with a stiffer spring. For tight trails and deeper snow I like the regular helixes. If your into draggin your buddies I would highly recommend a Full progressive, I run a 54-40 F in my 800 and she pulls like a freight train all the way to the top. The only time a switch back to the 70-44 .46 is if I know I will be in really deep snow.

So what would you guys recommend for a bone stock Pro X-2 700, 1.25" Track with 128 studs.

Which helix would work best for both lake riding and trail riding, would probably prefer the tri-cut, but which one, the ...719 or ...720.

I think most prefer the red/black secondary spring and the 165/310 Primary. Weights I would test for myself.


Thanks for any and all help.

personally i like the 140-310, on anything bigger than a 600 and a lot of 600 twins, it seems like theres enough power down low on these engines to run a low engagement.

719 for the 700

As far as the other guy knows. :smilielol: :beerchug:

Also the angles are straight for their duration not progressive. I wouldn't run a 70* helix in anything. It allows the clutch to open too easy & allows for too much belt slip/heat. On the 800 the 44* pulls much better then the 46*. The 42* angle realy doesn't make a noticable difference in performance, & if it raises peak rpm you can add some wt. to the toe to compensate for it. It's the best helix I have found to work with adj. weights.

I have the EPI 54/40 - 54/42 full progressive in my XC800 and I thought it pulled hard. It does, to a point. After I did some mods to the sled last year, then I noticed it layed down from mid to high. Came out of the hole really hard, then mellowed out from 55 mph on up. Didnt seem to have the pull it once had. I going to try the Team 720 helix or EPI's 54/44 - 54/46 and see what does better.

:celebrating:

Why would you go to a 44 or 46 finishing angle when it sounds like you can't pull the 40 or 42. Now it will shift out even faster loading your motor down even more. I tried even a 50-40, recomendations from some nutty clutch wt. manufacturer, & in the end couldn't get it to work the best with any clutch wts. that I tried. I would try the 719.

Isn't this the helix in the new 600Ho Switchbacks..?

on the Fuse 600HO, its a 64-42.36

Why not the 70*? Ran all last year on the 70 with no heat problems, 1200 miles per belt and they still look good but stretched to much.

I love Glen Erlandson, but the set up he sold me doesnt work to perfection. The problem lies with the weights, I think. I have 74 gram belly busters with this helix and like I said, it comes out hard but then does not seem to pull from mid to top. The rpms never fall. They stay right at 7900. I think that from mid to top the primary is shifting out to fast for the primary to catch up. I am going to start with the weights and go from there. As for not pulling a 44 or 46, the stock helix, as you know, was a 62/46.46 helix. But with 64 gram weights. It will pull a 44 or 46. Especially this year!!

:div20:

Your going from a 62* to a 46* in the first .46" movement of the helix. After that first .46" you maintain that 46* for the rest of the shift out. With say a 50-46F the shift out starts at 50* and ends at 46*. Therefore at .46" on the Full your probably around 48*. Thus loading the midrange more. If memory serves me correctly, those Belly Busters are no more then Polaris profile wts that are just heavier then you could get from Polaris. Get a 46* & a 44* finishing angle helix & see which one you think is better for overall performance. As far as that 70* starting angle, to make it easy to see the difference, try a slow pull away on the grass with that, & then try a 66* starting angle doing the same thing. You will notice that the 66* will get the sled moving with better authority. And it seemed funny that the clutches were noticably warmer with the 70* vs the 66*. Not sure if Erlandson just sales TEAM helixes or if they cut their own. If they cut their own you can't make a direct comparison tho the TEAM helix. Manufactures of, lets say, a 50-40F may start at 50* & end at 40* but the angles at which they do it may very greatly thus causing increased loading at differnt points on the shift out then the other.