Went to the dealer today and picked up the 900. I asked them what recalls they had to do to the unit. To my surprise the list was relatively short. Apperently this sled was shipped at a later shipment date and did not require ALL that have been mentioned on HCS. I guess its kind of good I live in NY for that reason. As far as intial thoughts go: I did notice a few little things that I'm going to correct. I noticed that the cooling line coming off the front of the head is routed very close to the exhaust Y (3/4 to 1"). I was surprised to find no heat tape or any other form of protection. It will be an easy fix. I also noticed that the "spare" electrical plugs located at the front of the sled by the hood hinge pin, hinder the radiator door from opening properly when the hood is in the closed posistion.
I already removed the stock can and replaced it with a Dyno Port. Went on very easy. The only bad thing about the entire job was having to get a fork lift to pick the stock can out of the sled :doh: . IT WEIGHS ALOT! I am very impressed with the fit and finish of the dyno port can. Rich Dally knows his shizzle. :div20:
I also picked up some tunnel protectors at the dealer so I decided to put those on. After I found the correct angle to put them on, the job went like budder. I'm going to wait to put the snowflap back on. I purchase 192 1.520 Red Tips to get this pig out of the hole.

When I unloaded it, I did manage to take it for a short ride to the garage. I DID notice the vibration under 2000 RPM. Anything higher than that the vibrating did seem to subside a bit. I also thought it turned like a champ. Granted it was on grass, I HOPE it turns this hard on the snow! I'll try to post some pics....

Pic of the cooling tube in question after I put a little heat wrap on. It's a bit close in my opinion.

pic of the new Dyno Port can. I purchased for two reason. After hearing about the issues with cavity heat, I figured a can may help by reducing the hot surface area. I also figured it would be nice to save 397lbs :augen41: It was a very easy install. Oh yeah, It sounds NIIIIICCCEE :div20:

Installing the tunnel protectors

Not bad for 6800 bucks :banana:

Very nice! :div20:

Sweet!! I have the same color. How much did the dyno port can run you? where did you order it from? does yours have dual wear bars on the skis?

I purchased the Dyno Port can at the Syracuse Snow Show. I believe Dyno pOrt has a website. The owners name is Rich Dally. Very Smart Guy. I paid $250 for it. My ski's do have the dual wear bars. I'll tell ya', in my past experiences, sleds don't turn worth a $hit in the grass or on pavement. At the dealer when I was loading I had to turn the sled on his parking lot. The thing turned on a DIME! I was surprised to say the least. With all the negative feedback this set-up received I thought I was going to be struggling with turning the machine.

welcome to the family.......get rid ASAP of those dual carbides and put single ones.Sled behave much better in corners

A couple of thoughts... I had an 05 9 and now have an 06 9.

The coolant hose - Adding heat tape won't hurt anything, but have you ever put a dixie-cup full of water over an open flame? It won't burn....

The radiator door is meant to be used as a "cleanout" not let in additional fresh air.

The electrical plugs are for connecting the altimeter sensor and the ambient or outside air temperature sensor.

The openings in the front of the bellypan below the front bumper are for air to go into the radiator.

Fyoushun is right:

The radiator door is for access to cleaning out debris such as grass, leaves and twigs that has accumulated in the radiator compartment. This door should be closed when operating the sled, otherwise air flow may avoid the radiator and go into the engine compartment, especially if you have added venting in the sidepanel or console area.

if your going to put 192 studs in there your going to want single rods on the skis i have 168 in mine and i was just about in the trees several times on my first ride.

Nice sled. I have the same coclr also and have a HTG/Dynoport manifold, pipe, and can. Looks and sounds sweet.

You made a good buy at that price. If I would of waited instead of sno-checking, I'd have it paid off by now.

If you have any problems with the clutch backshifting, I highly recomend the EPI clutch kit.

Your right about the stock exhaust, makes a good boat anker. Havn't changed mine over yet. Looking into the BMI can. Shaving 20 lbs. is a good thing, especially when you want to service your chaincase.

Good luck with your new ride. :div20:

Thanks for all the comments. I'm in the process of drilling the track :doh: . I hate to do it to a brand new sled but WE MUST HOOK UP! I plan on posting pics of the stud job in stages.
About the radiator and door.... I was talking to a buddy of mine that just removed the entire radiator Has anybody else done this??? I heard a rumor that the current cooling configuration doesn't really utilize the potential of the radiator to it's fullest. I see that SLP is offering an elimination kit. Whats the low down???

good ?..........................................anyone know?

I beleive SLP recommends taking out front cooler on RMK models only,using their pipe setup.

Removing everything that doesn't work to it's fullest potential is probably not a good idea. There probably wouldn't be a lot left on any snowmobile.

XC8001 is correct...

SLP has a 7/900 Cleanfire air box kit for the IQ RMK type body that needs to remove the radiator to give space for a decent air box. Of course that RMK type body is normally used in a lot of snow.

I think all this panic about removing the radiator on Fusion body styles is very premature. If there is a plumbing problem, that should be fixed. If the brakes were not working to their fullest potential, I would not remove them, I would try to improve them.

O.k. So far I have the track drilled and I've got all the studs in place. I'm waiting for Woody's round backers. I don't really care for the square jobs. I have to be honest I like the stud template (pattern) Redtip puts out but I'm questioning the quality of the studs. They feel real light and the head diameter seems to be much smaller than Roetin (My Favorite) or Woody's. I also noticed that the head thickness looks as though it is half as thick. I hate to stud and ESPECIALLY HATE TO RESTUD. I have attached pics of the pattern and the stud height.

SLP has a air box kit for the fusion and the rad stays in ,it might not be on the net but they have ,call them for the P.N.

same stud pattern as i am using for the up coming winter. the dual carbides suck ditch them before your first ride get some singles :beerchug: