I've just installed an SLP ceramic single to my sled. I also have the SLP air box conversion. I'm at sea level and would like advise on the recommended SLP carb settings. For my riding, they suggest 500 @ 3.5. I ride to -15f and no higher than 1300 feet. Thanks for all advice....

we run at sea level,started at 500s when you nail the throttle you could see black smoke out the exhaust(looked like a diesel) ended up with 470s still a touch rich,but on -10 to 0 on cold drive away the det would come on occasionally,top end seems the same,we had needles 3 position with a .020 shim thats 3.5 ,position4 seemed rich and position 3 would have a flutter at 5000-5300 rpms the .020 took care of that ,this is on a 04 800 with slp single ,v force, cheater head with a/c 70.5 weights and black/green primary,cant remember the secondary set up ,turning the engine 7900 rpms :div20:

take the shim out and run 430 just no wide open for 1 mile will be fine to -20 get it clitched and add 2 flo rites I see you don't have the head either well my opinoin is get 1

keep a eye on your plugs and wash start around where slp says. In the end you will be around stock jets and stock needle settings ( 460 , in the middle clip) My 700 with a few more mods runs nice with 440's and I can do a WOT runs for more then 1000'. I havent seen the EGT over 1150*f on any WOT runs so I should be able to run 430's in my 700 so figure 2 sizes or 3 sizes larger then 440.

With the jetting chart from slp they use the air box kit and gutted with flowrites. If you use there set up the jets will be close to start with. My 700 with the suggested set up was really close to there jetting charts! With 470 at 30 degs the plugges were white an the det light was on! You can call slp for more info, they helped me alot on the jetting side! But! There clutch set up sucked big!!

i found SLP's jetting to be way off. I did all the slp conversions also and i am currently running 450 mains and i know i could run 440's. I am keeping the 450's because i am planning on contacting Indyhead and having him to his head mod. i say start at 450's. you will be plenty safe

Thanks for the replies guys. I will start at 490 @3.5 and move from there. I thought SLP may be a little rich on their specs.....

on my 700 with the slp stuff,with a tempa flow im at 440s,stock main, trying 430 this year ,1000ft elevation

they are more than a little rich. when people told me to start at 460's i thought they were crazy. but trust the guys who know it all on here like xc special, nickles, pockets etc. theres alot of them. start at 460's if you must. you will be down at 450-440's. guarentee it

fwiw - with a single pipe, reeds, and RKT head i'm using a 450 main with ATACC installed... i've ran this down to -25 with no issues... if you are starting at 490's you are gonna be PIG RICH... SLP's jetting and clutching reccomendations are always WAY off... when my 700 was stock with only a pipe i was running 420's down to -25, you should be able to run 440's easliy if the pipe is your only mod...

Rouki, is that your RXL in your avi? got any bigger pics you can post?

RacerDave; That picture was taken at the Roseau museum. It's a 340 TXL. here's the picture...

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Bonz; My only other modification is the SLP airbox mod. Last winter in some of the conditions I ride in, my plugs were ash-white with 450 @3.0. I stayed with 470 @3.0 most of the winter and down to 450 in early spring.

Our trail system let's me ride 70-80 mph for five or ten miles at a time. Well groomed, little traffic, very little altitude change (0-1300 feet). I rarely ride in temperatures higher than -5f, the colder the better. Problem we often get is high humidity. Sometimes, snowdust can linger in a trail for quite a long time. Third sled in a group usually stays back 1/4 to 1/2 mile. Not being an expert, I can only assume the humidity makes the intake charge leaner.
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Nope, that is a 78 RXL 340.

Sorry....had TXL on my mind. It's an age thing....

rouki
I found the slp set up to go lean on long wot runs, be safe and start rich. I check plugges and piston wash out on the lake where I can run wot for 1 to 2 miles! A short run setup can be leaner but you will need to let off on long runs which sucks! Every sled will be some what differant so do your own testing. Brass is cheap! There are several good people on this site with good info and they are right most of the time. Good luck!

prox700man, how can you guarentee a set up? Last year you did not even know what piston wash was! Now you are an expert? You are still wet behind the ears!

Last year I ran this setup:

SLP single
Indyhead cylinder head
Flow rites
SLP airbox mod
Tempa flow
Needles in stock location
460 main jets

I ran it all year but always new it was very rich , dark brown on the plug. Probably way down on power.

This year I plan on running 440 mains and putting a 0.10" shim under the needle to slightly fatten it up. I like to ride a lot of WOT trails so I don't want the risk of a burn down.

i knew what piston wash was but i didnt know how much i should have. now after all of last year i picked up a ton on tuning and all of this summer i did some racing and mods to my four-wheeler and i learned a ton. this fall im planning on shaving the head on the sled and installing some EGT's. You would be surprised how much i have picked up and how much i enjoy playing with things.

03 PROX7 running @ sea level down to around -20F
SLP single/Vforce reeds and SLP airbox with no flowrites.
I had good wash and light brown plugs running 430 mains and the middle ( 3rd) needle position.

I would not hold it clamped for more than a couple of thousand yds without letting off and or burping a bit.
Awesome response and power for trail riding and on/off operation.


The SLP specs are not nec "off".
They are a starting point for one. More importantly SLP is primarily a mountain and elevation company and they spec their pipes to be used in that application.
Climbing/deep snow/mountain riding means........Lot's of heavy load WOT operation which is a lot like clamping WOT for a mile or more of lake running.
You can't expect your sled to survive miles of WOT use running on the edge crisp jetting. If you want or need jetting that will survive this then you will have to compromise.

If you had ash white plugs at any time you ran the gauntlet and were lucky.
Something in your setup is too lean and or your riding style demands richer jetting than the norm.
Do yourself a favour and put the needle back to the middle ( 3rd ) hole.
Regardless of your main jetting that setup doesn't need or want a leaner needle setting.

Such is the life of carbureted sleds. If you want it all you need to go to a computer controlled EFI multi probe techno wonder.........and pay the $$ up front.

Personally I'll stick with a carbureted naturally aspirated "simple" motor that I can afford and enjoy tweaking......prolly coming to an end I know.

Meat head, sounds like you have a serious lean problem with your 700 that is not normal. If you had 470 mains in your sled on a 30 degree day and your plugs were white, thats an abnormal problem. I have a 800 with 440 mains that runs pig rich. I went down to 420 mains at the end of the year and they actually looked good after a 1/4 run. They were tan. With the 440's I could run WOT for quite a long time without a burndown or DET coming on, but in my opinion, anybody who runs 2 miles at WOT is asking to grenade their motor. Your 700 is not the norm. Something is causing a serious lean condition, whether it is an air leak or carb problem. I see you live in MI which is not a high altitude state, so I'm stumped. That sled must like to suck the fuel!!

:beer:

maydaze
My 700 runs very well, It just likes lots of fuel. I get 10 to 11 mph running hard. When getting gas the sled does not take much more than other 700 if any. As far as wot for 2 miles, Its all in what you like to do. If you are afraid to hold it wot you are to lean! When on the big trails in the UP you may not let off near wot for several miles. Im just jetting for the way I ride. :augen41:

There are lots of posts of modified 700's. Have any of you done the crank bearing mod? Has any of you had a crank or bearing fail? I'm also curious on how many miles are on your water/oil pumps belt.

my clutch side driveshaft bearing was on its way out. thats a common problem tho in the 03 700's. got a new one from polaris, no problems yet. also im waiting for my team to go down the shitter. 2500 miles on it and its doin good so far

6000 miles on one of my belts,highly dont recomended it,2 cogs were gone,

havent looked at this belt yet,bought changing it 4000 miles,but its still working

for CDN guys,royal dist has belts 20.00 GOODYEAR on the belt,

Crank problems,dont here much of that on the 7

I run a 03 800 with all the SLP stuff as well as an RKT head with 450's for most of the season down to -10f and needle at 3 1/4.
maybe still a little rich, I started out at SLP recommendations and quickly learned they where way rich. Don't be afraid to jet em down a bit, you will really notice a power diffrence from the SLP recomendations, just watch your plugs and wash and don't hold them wot for miles. I have never trusted even bone stock sleds enough to holdem for miles.

My prox has about 6000 miles on it and just went through everything, all 4 driveline bearings where on there way out. Pto bearings got replaced with wide upgrade and opened the oil hole on that side of the case. New pistons and rings.
Water pump belt was half of it original thickness with rubber dust everywhere in the recoil, normally I wouldn't wait that long except on the pro you have to pull the motor to get at it. Suprisingly both clutches looked very good, with only the primary cover bushing getting replaced.
I just fired it up!!!! It's like hearing a baby cry for the first time, I think I am going to have to go rip up the grass!!

Also put a 136 extention with a new ripsaw track on it, it's going to be a great winter.

sledge8

Did you send the crank out to be done or did you do it yourself? You wouldn't by chance remember the number of the new bearing would you? I'm considering doing the bearing update on my 04 800. Figured I'd just pull the crank and change the bearing myself. What exactly did you do to the oil hole? Just smooth it out or did you actually go larger in diameter?

I sent the crank out so I do not have a number for the bearing. (Cranky Joe)
Wide bearing with pin on the inside and stock bearing on the outside with a new pto end of the crank, pto end dialed .009, way out of spec!! she was ready to grenade. came back at .001. I blew a belt at full cry at the end of last season and made a mess of my clutch guard, foot rest and I imagine that's what bent the crank. Never had a belt let go at 110 mph, I thought the whole motor went.
For some reason Poo does not drill the inner case on the PTO side for oiling as on mag and center bearings. The casting mark is there so all you have to do is drill down at a slight angle to open up the hole with the injector fitting so the pto bearings are getting oiled form the injector as well as fuel oil mix.
Cranky Joe did the oil hole mod as well as machine the case for the bearing pin.
I believe SLP sells just the bearing??

On the 03, stock mains, needle #3 with a SLP 1/2 step shim is safe ok to all temps. Brother in law rode at -35C at 1500 ft., no problem with 1 mile full throttle runs. Run only RN57YCC plugs though, and preferably 91 octane only. If only 87 available, be sure to switch the key setting, or if you have 91 octane, and want to do a multi mile wide open lake run, set it on the 87 setting. 490 or 470 it will be slower than stock, guaranteed, been there done it.

I have an 03 700 xcsp with the slp. My advice would be to watch your wash closely. Everyone has a different style ride and conditions, I echo those who are wary of the long WOT run. I will add to the watch list the GPS, holding WOT for that extra couple seconds to get that extra mph can be costly.

My pipe loves it hot and falling in love with making your pipe hot can cost $$.
440's are safe in mine . Sea level to 500 ft.

Start with rich jetting,460 or 470, watch closely, check wash often ( old plugs) and go down carefully.

This year I am adding a tempa flow hopefully that will give me some additional margin of error.

This what I have learned from my mistakes. Good Luck

After reading all this I think I will go back up to either 450 or 460's (from 440). When I'm in the UP I like to ride at 80-90 mph on some of those grades and I know with the 460's it was fine.

I know it was rich with the 460's even with the tempa flow but I never worried about it going lean.

with reeds , gutted box, slp pipe ,RKT head you will be fine with 440 mains.... take any one of these thing away you should think about being richer and reading your wash and plugs from there..... I could run for a mile with mine no problem EGT never got over 1230*f at -5*f. Its not often its colder then this in NH.

Does anyone know what the equivilent main jet range you achieve when you turn the Tempa-Flow screw 1/4 turn iether way from the reference point? I have 430's in and am thinking of starting the year with it 1/4 turn CW (rich).

schmeg--each 1/8 turn is appox. 2.5 % of jet size. 430s 1/4 turn cw (rich) will equate to about 440s. Per my discussons with Holtzman. I run 500s on mine so the change is more drastic than yours, checking my wash and plugs seem to verify this change. Caution, when using the various posters jet recommendation, because of your t-flows. Yours will already be leaner than the other w/o t-flows.

Thats true, hense is why I've decided to bump up on the safe side, and work down. Thanks for the info. Jay.