I am in the process of replacing the track. I have already pulled the rear suspension. My question is regarding the chaincase and such. What has to come off on the chaincase side to get the drive sprocket assembly out? I assume the whole chaincase has to come off, but thought I would check before I create extra work for myself. Any tips to help me out would be appreciated. I have a repair manual that covers my 88 Indy, but I know there are difference between the 88 and 98.

Mike, if you have only 2 cogs on then track shaft, you only need to pull the gears
out of the chain case and guts "not the chain case". typicaly the tripple sleds have 4 track shaft cogs that requires pulling the chain case itself..

then pull the 2ndary clutch and then speedo key / bearing houseing and then pull
the track shaft towars the key housing and wiggle the track shaft out

-Roger

Thanks, my 600 is a twin and I am pretty sure it only has 2 cogs. I will have to check. If so, it is great to know that I don't have to pull the whole chaincase, as that was what was next on my list. It sounds like it may be a pretty easy swap.

I know it was a pain in the butt, trying to get the cogshaft out of my old Indy a few years ago.

I just got finished swapping my XCR 800 to a 1 1/4 inch track it has 4 cogs so off came the chain case.

But it's done.


-Roger

Roger is correct,
Take suspension out, take secondary clutch off 1/2 inch bolt, take speedo gear out 3 bolts, be careful not to rip the gasket, then flip it so that it is laying on the clutch side with the hood open. Have something to hold the hood, then take the chaincase cover off (4 bolts) This is easier if you have the exhaust off, but you don't need to. Then loosen up the chain roller 9/16 and take the bottom gear bolt out (1/2 inch bolt) then take the cotter pin out and take the 15/16 nut off and remove both gears and chain. If the shaft doesn't fall out, then you might have to hit it with a rubber hammer towards the clutch side. Be prepared to have a little gear oil come out the bottom side, this is of course without draining the chaincase first.
Hope this helps.

Thanks everyone. Then...I am almost there. I have the secondary off and the speedo housing and 3 bolts. I have the chaincase cover and roller off, along with the lower sprocket. I quit last night when I was trying to get the upper chaincase sprocket bolt loose. I don't have anything to hold it from turning, when I try to loosed the 15/16" bolt. What's the trick here? I slid the secondary back on and the belt, thinking I might be able to hold it with the belt while trying to break the nut loose, but so far no luck.

Pump the brake a few times and then use the E brake lever to stop the
jack shaft from twisting.

PS Mine took lots of heat and a few minutes of a good impact gun and a 1/2 inch swivel that is now in the trash to get the nut to move and a few wobbly pops later my thirst was quenched and I was :drunk:

I'll tell ya what I started to think when I had the gears changed a few years back that the teck used thr red loc-tight


It was damn tight!!

-Roger