Any body out there still using them?? :no_bashing:

-Roger

Roger, how do you like your '00 XCR? If I recall from the last time we spoken, I believe you told me you have 180 shimkit? Have you done any racing with it - if so, how did you do. Let me know - WL.

Hey WL

Howz Things??

I have been Trail Riden and lake Runnin once is a while and got spanked buy a
skinny Mo FO on a cat last season, he Got me outa the hole and I picked up a few
sleds in the middle but not enough to pull by him on the top end..

So I am in the process of loosin bout 150 Lbs and makin some suspension mods for the upcomin season to include a Polaris 1 1/4 track Shockwave, and I am gona go back to the HT's with my redline helix and Gray/Blue Polaris spring..

Yeah It's shimmed with HTG Heads and Ceramic coated HTG pipes with V2's
jetted at 440's I don't have any temp gauges so I am runnin on the safe side

I had been runnin the HT's with the Stock XCR 800 Gray/Blue 2ndary spring with
Redline helix, for well over 1000 miles with Great Performance and no issues.. and the tring pulled like a freight train..

I decided to play and I bought a 2nd set of clutches and setumup with 10-62's with a black EPI 2ndary and a 38X hotseat helix and gave that a pull and I found less pull from this setup as compared to the HT setup I had runnin.. Same Top end speed

I then tried the HT primary clutch with EPI Black n 38X helix and I exploded the belt that tore the hammers off the weights and destroyed the clutch with in 5 miles of riden... and I wasn't hard runnin either I was on the lake riden easy with my kid..

I could only put the blame on the extra belt squeeze from the HT's combined with
the EPI Black and Hotseat 38X helix.. So I had to run the 10-62's EPI and 38X
for the remainder, and that setup what I was runnin when I got spanked.

L8tr
-Roger

Good to hear from you again Roger. As I was reading your list of your clutching spec - 38x helix is made to set up for racing with no backshifting. Im assuming this helix is 50/38. Im not sure what revs you were pulling but you should be aiming at 8.5k revs for peak power with the shimkit/pipes.
Im getting a '00 XCR with Dynoport pipes real soon. Im planning on installing a shimkit, just the same way with my '99 XCR was setup. My '99 XCR had a different clutching but thats the way I bought the sled from the dealer. I didnt fiddled with it until I got some seat time - it didnt do too bad but I felt the power range was a little flat so I installed a heavier weights to slow the spin down - it worked. When I first bought the sled, I didnt know it was shimmed - I happened to found out about it last year when the waterpump went and I cooked the motor. When I rebuilt it, I noticed it had (gasket - aluminum plate - gasket, all 3 combinded together) so when I put two & two together, my mind flew a red flag - thats how I knew it had a shimkit in it. I bet the last owner prolly took the HTG pipes off and sold it before trading the XCR in. No wonder, this '99 ran pretty well for what I had thought was stock. :beerchug:
Anyway, back to the subject - dont use the 38x for trail riding and also, the HT - I heard it didnt live up to its name. Thats based on what I have heard from others. WL (Mike)

PS - is your airbox one hole intake version or two? The '00 XCR came with one hole version in a stock form - who knows why Polaris went to that route. The sled I am getting, has a second hole cutted so its pretty much like the same airbox as the '01 - '03 version is.

Use the polaris blue/orange with the 38X.

BTW, pockets was the one that helped me on the clutching setup on my '99 XCR few years back. He's a good guy. WL.

it has this exact clutching an gearing, EPI maroon primary, 10-62's, epi black secondary, HSP52/38X helix, #3 24/40 gears, 2 holes in the air box.
192 1.075 trail studs, stock track, pretty much stock trail suspension limiter straps
out almost all the way.. 1/4 or less on the threads..

can't remember what I was pullin for rpm's that age thing and the abuse from the 70's n 80's is creapin up on me.. It was around 8500 maybe just over.. but the sled pulled a ton better when it was back at 8300 thru the mid-range to top..

I am also thinkin bout goin back to 25/39's

I'll pick up the Poo blue/orange give it a shot..


here is another recomended setup I am gona give a shot

ALMOND PRIM 48/34 PROGRESSIVE EPI GREEN( 56/91) 66 GRAMS 25/39 GEAR

-Roger

Here's what I came up with:

To make your sled run faster

- tighten up the limited scrap up a bit.
- take the rear/rear block out for tranfer out of the hole.
- move the front/rear block and set it to the highest setting. to help lowering your rear suspension closer to the ground - less drag = faster sled.
- loosen up your front shock springs.
- stock gearing is 24/39, if you use 25/39, you might not have enough hp to pull full shiftout.
- EPI maroon is for racing and your engagement had to be way too high (personal opinion) Use Poo Almond to lowering the engagement. Use 38x but use EPI silver to shift up sooner (or use blue/orange per pockets) and not overrev the motor out of the power band.

I think this will help you run your sled a bit faster - ask pockets if he agrees with this setup. WL.

on the trail i have had good luck with stock primary spring 10-62 weights with a black spring with straight 34. or blue secondary with stock helix.


on the ice the more wieght with less helix and spring the faster it goes. and them kits on the trail work out great for milage.

I used this set up and it beat many modded sleds at the races