TO stiff of primary spring I assume......new to this clutch tuning so I am still trying to learn.

It is a ProX700 and I am running 68 gram weights, turning just shy of 8000 rpm on tach, right where I am supposed to be, I am thinking my primary is too stiff.........

if your spring was too strong, the rpms would be higher. if your center distance on the clutches is to big or your belt deflection to tight, your belt can hit the hub of the driven clutch and keep it from shifting out. alignment from bad motor mounts can also be a factor. i have seen some aftermarket helixes that were not cut deep enough that also keep the secondary from shifting out, which in turn limits the primary. coil bind on the primary spring, shift weights hitting the spider, wrong shift profile on weights (to much heel), bad bushings and worn belts are also things that need to be looked at. after checking deflection, belt to sheave clearance (0.10"-0.15") center distance and deflection, remove the clutch and spring and check the simple mechanical stuff first with the weights and sheaves. then install the spring and compress the clutch to check for coil bind. make sure your driven with open far enough to shift out, i use the tool to open the Team clutch and check the belt thru its shift range with the primary spring removed, with the motor not running of coarse. they are all pretty simple checks that will help you figure things out and get a better idea of what is happening and aid you with future tuning. good luck, Brian.

I do not have team tool to spread driven clutch because I bought sled used. Shall I just get one at Polaris dealer or is there something cheaper and yet still effective?

Also, how do I check "if your center distance on the clutches is to big or your belt deflection to tight"?

Thanks.

the dealer has a bunch of the little angle wrenches for spreading the team clutch, they are a couple bucks and easier to store for trail use. you can use a bolt, but not my first choice. as for center distence, measure from the center of the retaining bolt on the drive clutch to the center of the driven clutch. center distance gets screwed up with bad motor mounts. make sure the measument is straight from front to back, don't rest the tape measure on both bolt heads. you should get 11.5" inches. http://www.hiperf.com/acatalog/Clutch_Alignment_Bars.html a tool like this and a clutch puller are a VERY good thing to have in the tool box when tuning. together they will set you back $50, but will more than pay for themselves over time. belt deflection is done with a straight edge laid from the drive to driven clutches on top of the belt with the belt all the way at the top of driven clutch. having the track off the ground and rolling the driven clutch by hand will get it there, or slipping the belt in a reverse rotation around the secondary clutch will also allow it to close. press down on the belt and measure the distance from belt to straight edge, it should be close to 1.125"-1.25". the tighter it is, the better low-end responce you get. loosening it increases speed and sacrifices bottom-end. play with it and find your own sweet spot, everyone has different ideas of what it should be. too tight and your sled will creep forward at idle and the belt squeals, to loose and performance goes bye-bye and you smoke the piss out of the belt. it is pretty cut and dry once you play with it a little. i like mine on the tight side.

All good idea's above.Can I ask you what you have in your primary,secondary,gearing ratio and any mods done?

Here is my current set-up:

Stock gearing
Primary = 68 gram weights and Goodwin Purple (140-360)

Secondary
New CCW spring with red/dark blue
helix = 68-44.46

Airbox is stock.

Have slp pipe/can

Jetted right now with 460's on the safe side

I have a lower gear for the top gear to take one tooth off. Also, I am going to put a 136 inch track on it this summer with a 1.5 inch track. Let me know your thoughts on spring, gearing, etc...............thanks.

Oh, and I have puller but need that alignment tool. Thanks for your help.

you could be only at 7800 ,if your tach is not calibrated,?
to much finish on the pri ,
geared to high,24-41 is about right,
to rich 440 mains,450 max

imo

Get rid of the Goodwin Purple. Too stiff of a finish. almond Primary 140-330 is a good starting point with those weights. I run 66's with a black white 140-320. Pulls like a train. My secondary is almost the same. 360 finish is too much.

I have the same set up as schmeg, I have found the primaries on most polaris require shimming to 10-20 thou max.

Not to change thread but I am running 470 mains at 1100 ft. When you recomended 450 max with a SLP exhaust what do you think mine would be with stock tuned pipe and a less restrictive modded stock can. Thanks Bob

your 02 has totally different brass in the carbs,air box,cdi .your jetting should be pretty close as is.

my 03 runs 440s at 700ft elevation

Too rich, off the powerband (8100 with proper jetting and hot pipe), too tall a gear, too heavy a shift out poundage primary. Proper primary belt to sheave clarance is critical as well, and spot on clutch alignment, engine torque stop adjustment. Also snow conditions and temps play a factor.

Thanks, it didn't seem rich

Thanks for all your help guys. Here is what I am going to do. Drop one tooth on the top gear as I have it already. Get new primary with a 310 or 320 finish and jet down to 450 for the time being from 360.

I may try going with 66's as well. How can I get my tach calibrated? Can I buy a tool? I don't like paying people to do things, I would rather learn myself.

Is there anything else I should change when I go to a 136 inch track with a 1.5 inch lug?

Thanks.

dealer will charge you around 15 $ for calibrating,
there is a way to do it yourself,but you need special meters,something thats reads hertz i believe,that i know nothing about,
probably need a stiffer sec spring with the new track

I will take it to dealer to get it done if it is that cheap. Thanks.

68 gram weights work great,who did you bye them from?,Dalton,EPI or OEM Polaris weights.There all different profiles,heels and tips,this will determine your primary spring to use.For instance I use a 310 to 300 finish rate primary spring for 68 gram EPI bellei busters.Gut your airbox and add the SLP big mouth air kit,it's a great investment(air is HP).Jet down and gear it as noted above.Around my area it's only about 15 bucks to get your tach calibrated by a dealer,I have ETG gages and do this myself.Add a set of V-Force and also get a SLP torque strap to keep your engine aligned under heavy torque. :div20:

I have a slp pipe, VF3's, gutted box, 24-41 gearing, tempa-flow, RKT head, 136 x 1.25" track on my prox.....

My current set up for running 500' ~3500' above sealevel at temps -10 ~35*f

140 - 330 RCS Ti primary spring
10-66 OEM weights
red/blue
70-44.46" helix
24-41 gearing
SLP pto and mag side engine mounts to keep everything in line!
stock belts with the spider shimed to .015" clearance and belt deflection set right around 1"
440 main jets EGT is always under 1200*F!!! I can go leaner still....

The SLP pipe must be run HOT to make more power then the OEM pipe , my clutching started changing once it was leaned out, I picked up 200 RPM when I went from 470 mains to 450 mains! Mine runs right at 8050 on a long pull.