I bought a set of bars off the 440 race sled that comes with the hooked ends, and all told me the brake side controls will go on fine, but the throttle stuff wont go on because of the hooked end, so im wondering if this is true or not, and if it is, how did you get it on? I really havent looked how my controls come off.

i am pretty sure the throttle block splits in two after you remove the 4 screws.

yeah i think it doea as well...if not just by the throttle that goes to the 440xr/iq
i know its easier said then done, but with the stuff you have put into your sled i assume you would have the cash for it if needed...

As you can see by looking at the picture on the left, I've added the same handlebars to my Pro-X. If the hooked bars that you bought did not come with the aluminum two-piece throttle block, you will have to buy one.

The one-piece plastic block that comes standard on the Pro-X and the XC will NOT slide over the hook and it does not come apart. I learned the hard way after using every tool in my toolbox, even a Dremel...

I can get part numbers for the two-piece throttle block if you need them. I can also answer any other questions you may have about the whole installation process.

It was definitely worth the hassle.

yeah i will wait and look for a throttle block and stuff down at haydays, its like $80 from the dealer for everything. Do the throttles come with a thumbwarmer on it, or would I need to add that as well, thanks. Shouldnt take much to take stock bars off and put everything else on.

I used the throttle lever (and brake lever) that came stock on the Pro-X. The thumb warmer was already on the throttle lever, and the new handlebars had heaters on them.

The easiest way to get the grips off without damaging the heaters underneath is to place the nozzle of an airgun into the handgrip hole and blast 100+PSI into the grip. The grip will slide right off.

I did the same thing, you have to buy the two piece aluminum throttle block and the kill switch from Polaris. Those were the only two things I needed to make the transition. I also saw that Powermadd makes a two piece throttle block which is cheaper so you might want to check into that. Also, the racer bars come with the grips on them already.

yeah the bars i got came with the grips. so i dont need a new throttle lever? i just need the block? i see i can get a kill button from Dennis Kirk for $8 also. so i need to know if i need to get the whole deal or just something else, and if you could point me to what im looking for that would be great. also if i could get a pic of what im looking for, that helps too

I bought an aftermarket universal switch at a snowmobile parts store for $12. The guy who runs the store had me bring in my old switch so he could hook it up to some kind of amp meter in order to figure out if the switch was "hot" in the up position or in the down. I liked the look of the Polaris racing switch, but it was almost as expensive as the 2-piece aluminum throttle block.

is the kill switch an open circuit or closed circuit, because i can order either kind of kill switch. also is it just the block a piece the throttle i have mounts to, or is it a piece that goes on the bars with the throttle. Thanks

Someone else will have to let you know about the open vs. closed circuit thing. Maybe you could start a new post, or you could "PM" Nickels or Pockets.

As far as the throttle block is concerned... It's basically the same thing as the black plastic housing on your current set of handlebars, except it comes in two pieces and it does not have a built-in kill switch. The 2-piece design allows you to clamp it together on the bars so that you do not have to worry about sliding it over the hook.

Now for the throttle lever... All you have to do is remove the throttle lever from your old throttle block and attach it to your new one. It's a simple procedure that involves removing a clip from the bottom of the pin that holds the throttle on. Take a look at your throttle assembly and you'll see what I mean.

I PULLED THE GRIP OFF, CUT THE END BEFORE THE CURVE, SLID THE THROTTLE ON AND WELDED THE HOOK BACK ON. CLEANED UP THE WELD WITH DIE GRINDER, A LITTLE PAINT AND SLIDE THE GRIP BACK ON. :beerchug:

Are the 440 bars wider and staighter? Also what years will work? Thanks.

If you line up the original Pro-X bars with the 440 bars, you'll notice that they are an exact match except for the hooks. What appealed to me about the 440 handlebars is that they are only an inch or so wider than the stock bars. I did not want to simply add hooks to the stock handlebars because I did not like the fact that they added too much width (in my opinion).

You can buy a set of 440 bars (complete with handwarmers) from the Pure Polaris website--look for the "aggressive handlebar" package. Expect to pay $80 or $90.

As a side note: The aggressive handlebars are the SAME exact bars that are found on the Firecat.

hey rosko i got a killswitch if u wanna buy it?