what,s the proper procedure for bleeding the air out the the coolent system starting with filling the system with anti-freeze? don,t want to end up with air in the coolent system, thanks..HAWK!!!!!!!!!
Full Version: bleeding air from coolent system
what,s the proper procedure for bleeding the air out the the coolent system starting with filling the system with anti-freeze? don,t want to end up with air in the coolent system, thanks..HAWK!!!!!!!!!
I fill it with coolant, then put it on my trailer and tilt the trailer and run it till its hot. That works for me. :beerchug:
Kevin
Kevin
i never bleed my zr's by the book it never was a issue they burped on their own well. Your suppose to elevat the front
I do most of them on the Rec-lift and add a 4 X 4 between the crossbar of the lift and the bellypan to really get it up in the air. Fill the system as much as I can through the thermostat housing and then close it off, fill the bottle 3/4 full, squeeze the lower hose a few times and install the cap. If its a fresh motor I pull the oil pump up and tie it off with a coat-hanger, start it and run the first minute at 2000, a minute at 3000-4000 and than alternate between an idle and up to 4500 until the exchangers are hot(8-12 minutes). Shut it down, let it cool completely overnight, add coolant to line, and repeat the heat-cycle. I do this three times, they will burp well this way. After the second cycle I release the oil-pump and let it run on the 100:1 I add.
:beerchug: thanks guys. hugh, i,ll try that this weekend and refer back to your procedure.thanks......HAWK!!!!!!!!!!!!!
QUOTE(hugh @ May 15 2005, 09:33 PM)
I do most of them on the Rec-lift and add a 4 X 4 between the crossbar of the lift and the bellypan to really get it up in the air. Fill the system as much as I can through the thermostat housing and then close it off, fill the bottle 3/4 full, squeeze the lower hose a few times and install the cap. If its a fresh motor I pull the oil pump up and tie it off with a coat-hanger, start it and run the first minute at 2000, a minute at 3000-4000 and than alternate between an idle and up to 4500 until the exchangers are hot(8-12 minutes). Shut it down, let it cool completely overnight, add coolant to line, and repeat the heat-cycle. I do this three times, they will burp well this way. After the second cycle I release the oil-pump and let it run on the 100:1 I add.
100:1?????????
just a suggestion for those that do enough of these to take advantage of it. for work(Ford) we use a tool from Snap-on called a Rad Kit Plus. It works by pulling a vacuum on the coolant system using shop air and then you suck the coolant into the system. It 100% eliminates and sort of bleeding procedures, i started using mine on sleds last year and will never fill another cooling system any other way.
kind of expensive but can be had on ebay for less
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P6...ore&dir=catalog
kind of expensive but can be had on ebay for less
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P6...ore&dir=catalog
QUOTE(mombo @ Jun 3 2005, 08:25 PM)
100:1?????????
Always after a rebuild. May not be needed after the initial cycle with the pump yanked open but old habits die hard so I continue to run the first tank through like that.
QUOTE(hugh @ Jun 5 2005, 11:28 AM)
Always after a rebuild. May not be needed after the initial cycle with the pump yanked open but old habits die hard so I continue to run the first tank through like that.
Sorry I misread it! :beerchug:
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