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ADAM ANTHONY
TRYING TO HELP A FRIEND WITH GETTING HIS SLED GOING. HE HAS A 1989 PHASER.

I LOOKED AT IT LAST NIGHT, HERE'S THE PROBLEM

THE SLED WILL ONLY START WITH THE CHOKE AT THE HALF WAY AND THE THROTTLE AT ABOUT 10%

ONCE IT STARTS (1 OR 2 PULLS) IT WILL STAY RUNNING WITH THE AIDE OF THE THROTTLE AND THE CHOKE STILL ON.

IF YOU LEAVE THE CHOKE ON AND GIVE IT GAS IT WILL SPIN THE TRACK

IF YOU TAKE THE CHOKE OFF IT WILL ONLY RUN FOR A COUPLE OF SECOND THEN DIE. REGARDLESS IF YOU ARE AT HALF THROTTLE OF 10%


THIS IS WHAT WE DID:

REPLACED THE SPARK PLUGS, THE ONE IN THERE WERE PIN TOP REPLACED WITH NEW BR8ES (STORE WAS OUT OF 9')

CHECKED AIR INTAKE/BOX FOR POSSIBLE BLOCKAGE - NONE

TOOK OUT CARB'S, CHECKED FUNCTION OF NEEDLE. DID NOT TAKE APART AND CLEAN, BUT THEY WERE ABSOLUTLY SPOTLESS

NONE OF THE ABOVE ITEMS HELPED.

ANY SUGGESTIONS??

THANKS, ADAM
Brand-Newtral
QUOTE(ADAM ANTHONY @ Mar 4 2005, 12:28 PM)
TRYING TO HELP A FRIEND WITH GETTING HIS SLED GOING.  HE HAS A 1989 PHASER.

I LOOKED AT IT LAST NIGHT, HERE'S THE PROBLEM

THE SLED WILL ONLY START WITH THE CHOKE AT THE HALF WAY AND THE THROTTLE AT ABOUT 10%

ONCE IT STARTS (1 OR 2 PULLS) IT WILL STAY RUNNING WITH THE AIDE OF THE THROTTLE AND THE CHOKE STILL ON.

IF YOU LEAVE THE CHOKE ON AND GIVE IT GAS IT WILL SPIN THE TRACK

IF YOU TAKE THE CHOKE OFF IT WILL ONLY RUN FOR A COUPLE OF SECOND THEN DIE.  REGARDLESS IF YOU ARE AT HALF THROTTLE OF 10%
THIS IS WHAT WE DID:

REPLACED THE SPARK PLUGS, THE ONE IN THERE WERE PIN TOP REPLACED WITH NEW BR8ES (STORE WAS OUT OF 9')

CHECKED AIR INTAKE/BOX FOR POSSIBLE BLOCKAGE - NONE

TOOK OUT CARB'S, CHECKED FUNCTION OF NEEDLE.  DID NOT TAKE APART AND CLEAN, BUT THEY WERE ABSOLUTLY SPOTLESS

NONE OF THE ABOVE ITEMS HELPED.

ANY SUGGESTIONS??

THANKS, ADAM
*



Your problem has to be the carbs from what you described. All carbs will look clean, escpecially the slide area. Drop the bowls and remove the mains. I bet their plugged. If it were electrical like a voltage regulator it wouldn't matter where the choke is at. The only other thing to look at is the fuel pump, but that's a stretch. I bet you will find that both bowls are full when you drop them.

Good luck. Nice sled though, just a simple 485 fan, not much to them.

George
fife88
replace the fuel lines too........there might be something in there too
Octane
I had a '90 Phazer II that had a similar problem.
It would always start on the 2nd pull and would run great for about 30 seconds. When you first started the sled, it would idle really nice at about 2500 rpm. Then the revs would slowly drop untill the sled would stall. Now, it would stay running if you used the throttle. It didnt matter if you left the choke on or not, the sled would not idle on its own at the point.
It would idle just fine if the engine was warm, but if it was halfway between being warm and being cold it would not want to idle.
I never looked into seeing if the jets were clogged. I simply put all my gear on before I started the sled, and then when the idle dropped to 1500 rpm I would start riding the sled at an easy pace for 1 or 2 miles. It wasnt a big deal because I had to ride the road for about a mile to get to the trail anyways. After a mile or 2, the engine would idle just fine on its own. I figured that because its a fan-cooled sled, that it was set up so rich that when the pipe was cold it wouldnt want to idle on its own.
However, I would check the jets on your Phazer, they might be clogged. However, dont be surprised if your sled does just like mine did. If it does, just use the throttle to keep it running and ride at an easy pace for the first few miles. Once the pipe warms up it will run just fine.
Hebi
whanker57
Phazers generally have an idling problem. Many of the phazer owners I have heard from say theirs will not idle at certain temperatures. Mine won't idle right sometimes either. Its just a Phazer thing....
cdnredline
Full carb dissassemble and clean (maybe by a shop that has worked on these butterflies before). They need to have the pilots removed and cleaned and likely the jet in the top of each carb under the welch plug. Again, an experienced shop knows how to remove these and glue them back in.

Float heights very important on these as well. Also, the plugs in one or two of the three jets must be in correctly (sorry, can't remember which should be where).

Fresh fuel!

Proper plugs (unless you want to melt down).

Compression?

Reed Valves (a broken reed can cause very poor lowend and idle).

Plug caps (not likely your problem but very common).
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