This season I got into snowmbiling after begging borrowing and stealing friends sleds and bought a 1998 polaris indy 440 for her and a 1997 yamaha vmax 600sx for myself. My question is her sled is a long track 440 and has the Snow King Special sticker on the back by the taillight and I have been looking and looking for anyone that has one or wrote about one or for any info on it for that matter.
Its a great sled and its in awesome condition as i bought it from my friend whose mother rode it since new.
Is there such a model as a 440 sks or is it a sticker from something else. I would also like to change the clutching a little and maybe find a pipe for it. Any info on this sled would be greatly appreciated.

No factory 98 440 SKS. Does it have power valves, or piston port engine? Evolved or wedge chassis?

No power valves.
Not sure what a piston port engine is.

Evolved I would say.
I will get some pics and downsize them and post them.
The engine appears to be a plain 440 liquid cooled engine.

Put a new gold primary spring in, with 1-.090" secondary clutch shim in the spring pocket to raise engagement. Stock 10MB weights, put a new red polaris secondary spring in, and an R8 polaris helix, or hot seat HSP34, or 34S, #2 hole, 3-.030" shims under the snap ring. Verify the clutch alignment, engine torque stop set tight, primary clutch belt clearance set to .010" to .020" with a new 3211070 belt. Belt deflection set to 1 1/4".

damn pockets! you know way to much on tuning anything with a polaris sticker on it. keep up the good work. :div20:

Are you sure it is a 440. I've got a friend with a 500 sks evolved chassis. black with red lettering. Nice sled but he never gets to ride anymore. Gotta find people with more free time to ride with...

Is it this one?
Indy 440 sks

Forgot to add, check the needle valves, and float height, and the mains can be leaned out 1 or 2 sizes safely. This will wake that little thing up nicely. Back in 96 doing this made the little 440 run and often beat a 500 EFI, acceleration and top end.

So your unit is a 1995 not a 1998...........units worked good with the stock set up as per Pockets recomendations...........don't recomend a pipe. I found it would run with a 500 until you got into the powder.

It looks similar to the one it in the picture on that link except that it is a long track and the red one in that pic is a short track and its got a white hood with some green and blue stickers and accents. I will get some pics and get them posted shortly. It is about to get hibernated for the summer so its on the trailer with the cover on.
It is a 1998, and it is a 440.
If I print that post and take it to my local polaris dealer will they know more than I about transfering what you said into part numbers.

Thanks for the info.

If you take your serial # or VIN # to your Polaris dealer they should be able to idenify it. Another way to tell is look by your serial # and see if the Model # is there.

1995 440SKS would read 0952560

1998 440 would read 0982760

1995 was the last year Polaris produced a factory 440 L/C INDY SKS

If it is a 1998 it probably had an SKS kit installed by the dealer or previous owner.

Sks kits were sold as an option which included the back tunnel extension that had the sks decal on it. Both these units had the Evolved chassis.

If it looks like this its a 1998 with an optional SKS kit installed

That is what it looks like. I looked at it a little closer and the add-on extension pieces say SLP on the them so it has to be something added later. I will try the different cluth setup and ride it in the grass maybe, because the snow just is not in our favor this year.

thanks for the info

pockets :smilielol: you da man!

is it extended to a 133 or 136?

I am not sure, but my guess would be the 133 becuase it does not look quite like a 136, it keeps her happy and that is the important part.

Here is a 136. I'd think a 133 would be more than fine. Happy to hear she likes it!

It is most likely a SKS kit dealer option when the guy bought it new :cn:

Pockets, i am taking a honeymoon trip to colorado and need some help setting up her sled. I think i am gonna gear down one tooth on top but i need to know if you think it was geared down as part of the dealer installed long track kit (133.5" kit) or what size is stock. I also need some clutch changes for the elevation ( i think about 9000-11,000), jetting would also be appreciated. Anyone else is more than welcome to chime in but pockets, being the man, as earlier stated appears to be the man to consult.

It wasn't necessarily geared down, but I would go to 20/39 at the least, preferably 19/39, or 19/40 if it has 1.25" or more lug. Keep the stock primary spring, go to 10MR weights, secondary as mentioned before. You should have a jetting chart under the hood. If not, check with your local dealer for a main jet change. I would think you will end up with 180-190 for mains. Set the air screw out 1/2 turn more than stock settings, and you may need to put the needle clip one position higher than stock. You may also have to tighten the secondary to #3 position.

I am thinking about putting a 1.375 track on it and will be clutching to the specs you gave earlier and want to know if the same setup applies for the flatlands.
I also contacted a dealer in the area of colorado that we are going to see what they might recommend for settings and they recommended 10MW (busched) weights and about a 200 main jet with the same springs the 3rd position in the secondary and third clip on the needle.
One thing that was not the same as your recommendation was the air screw, they said to go 1/4 out from seat instead of the stock 3/4 turn out from stock, what difference will it make as you said to go out another 1/2 turn (1 1/4 turn out) as I read it?
Also they recommended a 10 mw (busched) weight and you recommended a 10 mr, what is the difference in the two?

thanks again for the knowledgable info pockets you still the man

They are probably not as high an elevation as you mentioned, that is why they say heavier weights, so you do not overrev. Go with the same for flatlands, but definately the HSP34S, or progressive erlandson 42/34 as I mentioned in another post. Red secondary #2, as when you gear down you need the secondary to upshift quicker. For a quicker backshift, use a hot seat white secondary spring, #2. I would get one to see which you like better. Sometimes when going up in elevation, and dropping the mains quite a few sizes, you develop a lean hesitation when initially opening the throttle. That is why you sometimes richen the air screw setting. I used to run 18/41 gears in my 96 440 XCRSP, for snocross and drags, and with the secondary set-up to match, it was lightning quick off the line, and acceleration. It would spank a 700 until 40 mph. If you do the 1.375", go to 19/40 gears, for all around, the 18/41 for high elevation.

What size chain will fit the two gear setups you recommended. Do you recommend the different helix and spring (hotseat) for the high elevation or for the flatlands or both?
The dealer that I talked to should be at about 8000 ft but only goes up from there as you get into the snow. At what rpm should I be with a desired clutch setup?
I think I will leave the air screw and if I get some hesitation like you talk about the I can richen, would going further from the seated position correct?
I hope that the old lady poops her pants when I get done setting up her sled for this year, because she keeps whining about how its gonna be a dog and no fun, but I will change all that this winter.
thanks again pockets

I tore into her sled last night and found a blue primary spring and the weights said 10-46, I am not sure whats in the secondary becuase I dont have a snap ring plier or a spring comressor which is what I am assuming I need to get it apart. The gear oil in the chaincase was a milky chocolate color which needed to be changed and the gears were 19/41, I think I am gonna get a 18/40 and try a combo of the 19/40 and 18/41. What difference will I see from the 40 gear on the bottom as opposed to the 41 gear with the 19 on top. I have heard of using regular ATF tranny fluid in the gear case instead of the factory stuff, what are your thoughts.

The stock 66p chain will work with either gear set-up. The helix change is for both low and high altitude, the white spring for high altitude, but for low either one may be what you like, the stock red or hot seat white. You could also try the red secondary at high altitude, as the low gears will give good backshift, and will need the secondary to upshift quicker. You want 8000 rpm, no more. The air screw leans as you turn it out. The polaris gear oil is a dark dirty color as it has graphite in it. You could run the synthetic polaris chaincase oil. I did use synthetic dexron III in my sled, but I would only use full synthetic, and dexron III. For the secondary all you need is snap ring pliers, you compress the helix with your hands. The 19/40 will be a better ratio for low altitude, more top speed. The blue primary spring has a bit high of engagement for the 440 for trail riding I thought, and it will not allow as much top speed as the gold with that engine. Even in deep snow you do not need a really high engagement rpm, as it will spin more. The proper clutch alignment, gear ratio, a new belt, and .010" primary clutch sheave clearance, and no more than 1.25" belt deflection will give it good take off power. The 10MW are 46 grams, but they should have the 10MW stamped in them. If they do not, get new weights.

I ordered a bunch of parts yesterday and I ordered the 10-mr weights becauase the 10-mw weight is the same weight as the ones in it and the 10-mr is only 2 ounces less than the 46 of the ones in it now. If it pulls more than 8000 up there in the snow the polaris dealer can help me change them.
The skag are shot and I am also wondering what I should replace them with, I have not done much reading on this topic and am looking for some insite, we do mostly fields and ditches and some trails but mostly making our own trails.
The dealer also had some problems finding the .090 shim you talked about and so I think we found a .050 and 2 at .020 to get to the .090, is that a problem.
The secondary had a white spring in it, which probably matches the blue for the altitude in the black hills of south dakota not the flatlands of the eastern part of the state which is wear I bought it, so hopefully that is some of the problem with the sled not being as quick as it could be.

I also tore apart the handlebar cover (to add a two inch riser) and wow I think by the time I had it all apart I think I had about 8-10 screw clips and had lost 2 of the 4 bolts on the front part and almost missed the four screws underneath. Wow, that thing is seriously put together almost a little excessively I would say.

I might be back when I get into changing the track out but I think that will be pretty straight foward and hopefully smooth.

thanks again pockets for all the info and replies I will let you know how it turns out, hopefully I don't rip up too much grass trying it out.

The .030" shim is used under the snap ring on the secondary clutch. The .090" were used in 1994 and older sleds between the secondary clutch sheaves to adjust belt deflection. You could also use just three of the .030" shims instead. Those shims do not come in any other thicknesses. The white spring may not be a hot seat secondary spring. The only way to know is that it should be the same thickness as the red polaris spring. For carbides, go with a 6", or a set of the new easy steer carbides. Go to Woody's website, they will show some recommendations for different track depths. Look at something for a RMK.

What is the difference in the 10-46(stamped on them), 10-mb (stock) and a 10-mw weight from polaris becuase they are all suppose to be 46 grams, and I think I saw the shape might be a little different.

Also I am having troubles choosing a track to put on it, I want to put on a 136" x 1.25" or so track but am confused by all the different "tread or lug patterns" I also assume weight might be a small factor but they should all be about the same. I think I am looking for a paddle style lug and not a notched style paddle as we are riding mainly in fields and ditches and some trails.
I would like to find a nice used one and then with the sale of the one on it come out a little better than buying a new one.
I have looked at tracksusa and they have used tracks as well as new.

Polaris weights will not have 10-46 on them, they will have 10MB, or 10MW. Unless someone wrote it with a pen. 10MB are heavier than 10MW. 47.5 I believe, 10MW 46. Go with a new style from Camoplast, they have some good ones, such as the ripsaw.

Your sled does not have large combination heat exchanger/tunnel protectors on the inside top of the tunnel. The notched tracks are to provide clearance to these heat exchangers, so you do not require a notched track.

Your sled has heat exchangers on the running boards which I prefer for keeping the snow and ice buildup off the running boards and leaving good traction for your boots.

Pockets, I need one more favor, my dealer is having troubles finding a part number for the shims you recommend, can you find me a part number for the shims you mentioned, thanks
It almost threatened to snow this weekend and my wife about flipped becuase her sled is still in pieces, and has been for a while now due to my dealer buddies dropping the ball on my order.

thanks again for the help my dealer could never handle, I love this place.

#7556804 will be the .030" ones.

What is the thickness of the large gold washer that is between the two secondary clutch halves and is that what you were referring to as the spring pocket?

Thanks for the part number, not only did my dealer have troubles finding clutch shims for this sled, but they ordered me ones that dont fit on the shaft so I just took them the part number and I ordered it myself on their parts sheet.

thanks again pockets

Sorry I re-read the post again and I assume you are reffering to putting that secondary shim in the primary to raise engagement. Sorry

This is just an update, I got all the mods done and I got the track (136 x 1.375 camo) in with not too many problems.
The springs are shot and can not hold up the sled with me on it and the track rubs the tunnel extension every once in a while and so I have some new springs ordered and we got three inches of snow so I have been out testing the new clutching and I must say that pockets you are the man when it comes to this stuff, its a whole new sled.
I just cant wait to get into some real powder like 2 feet of it and see how it handles it.

Pockets, I have a couple questions, first when I use the red secondary spring I have no problem getting to 7900-8000 on the tack but when I switch to the white spring from hot-seat it will only turn like 7500-7600. The white spring seems to be a little stiffer and I am assuming this is the reason for the difference in rpm, is this going to be different in the deep snow or should I stick with the red spring. Second, I have not changed the weights out yet they are stamped 10-46, which my dealer buddy assures me is just the old style weight, it should have 10-mb weights factory which should weight 47.5 not 46 should I leave this alone or change the weights.

I would bet that you have not tensioned the secondary spring properly when putting the white in. Because it is long, it is more difficult to install. The rpm should not change with the white spring. What altitude are you riding at? That will determine if you need to go to the heavier weights.

I am riding in the flatlands of south dakota and I am at like 1500 or so if that. The weights were probably part of the changes made to ride in the black hills of south dakota(3500-5000ft) because the clutch springs were similar to the elevation setup used in that region, but I have changed both springs and added shims per your setup.

Do I need to move to the second hole in the helix or move the washer/cover on the front of the secondary?
Why is that spring so much longer?

Thanks for the speedy service, are you sure you dont want to get back into the toy stores again, you could probably make some good money, but maybe the furniture business is less stressful.

Use the 10MB weights, for 1500ft. The hot seat spring has more compression poundage, do it will backshift quicker, and squeeze the belt harder. Use it in #2 position in the helix. The cover on the secopndary clutch is to adjust your belt deflection. The closer that the notch in it is to #1, the tighter the belt will be. Put the spring in the hole in the clutch sheave, then but the other end in the helix, in#2. Then rotate the lower clutch sheave until the keyway in the helix lines up with the keyway in the shaft. Then push the helix down until it goes halfway down onto the shaft, with the keyways lined up. Put the key in. Push the helix down a bit more until it is still about 1/4 inch above the shaft yet. Hold the bottom clutch sheave, and rotate the upper sheave 1/4 turn counter clockwise, hold it there, then push the helix the rest of the way down. Hold the helix down, and keep the sheaves from changing positions while you put the 1-.030" washer on the shaft, then the snap ring. I use my knee to hold the helix down, one hand to hold the sheaves from turning, and one to put the snap ring on.

The trip was awesome and I learned alot. I have a few things to ask about, first how did I break a main jet in half putting it in I didn't turn that hard but it just popped so the 190's I wanted to put in were 200's and they were a little heavy because she used more gas than my 670ho skidoo and that never happens. I didnt touch the air screw but I moved the needle clip and changed the main jets. It idled real low and almost died is that part of the lean hesitation you mentioned or just the altitude, it ran great otherwise. I have yet to try the white hot seat spring but otherwise it ran good even in the deep snow.
I tried to turn the carbs and sneak in the bottom to change the jets but I kept dropping them and so in the future unless I find a better way I will just take the carbs off and replace the jets it will take me less time the right way than the sneaky way I tried. Is there a better way to change jets?

Did you move the needle clip up? The air screws probably needed to be turned out to lean the low end a bit, and usually the idle needs to be turned up as you go up in elevation.

I moved the clip up one spot on the needle so it was second from the top stock is third from the top.
What would make it use so much gas we only put on about 80 miles and I thought it was going to run out. It should ealsily do about 120-130 on a tank. The temps were about 15-25 the whole time and in the lower areas maybe 30-35 so the jetting was rather rich.

The richness will kill the mileage, but also the smaller engine has to work harder than the 670 does, so it will use more fuel than at low altitude.

Pockets, I have to hand it to ya, i have tried every setup I can think of with the parts I have aquired lately and the setup i keep going back to is the one you mentioned on the first page, it just plain hauls and carries the skis like 600 or 700, its crazy, so again thanks for the insite.