I have about 700 miles on my XR800 since I had the Polaris 136 kit installed. 800 miles last year before the extension. Rear spring is on the middle setting.

Until last weekend, when I lifted up the sagging rear suspension after getting off the sled, it would stay up. Now, it drops back down to the sagging position. Is this a problem? Should I turn the rear spring setting to the highest setting? Thanks.

Also, what effect does the rear spring stiffness have on ride/handling?

The ride in is normal.

Also your picture looks like you have the front cranked up. If that is the case it makes it sag down.

I am having the same problem with my 03' Pro X. I was told that it was bacause the shock in the rear of the suspension is blown. You get off the sled, and the rear suspension stays in the coupled position. Even if I lift up on the rear bumper of the sled and let go, it falls right back to the coupled position.
I had tried to tighten the spring tension, but it didn't do anything???

I also found that my springs (700 x 2) have sagged out a bit. I expect some, but not this much.

I pulled all of my shocks and gas was down on fronts and center, but rear was full - Time for rebuild #2 in around 1000 miles

POCKETS HOW MUCH RIDE IN SHOULD THERE BE. ALSO I STRAP MINE DOWN ON THE TRAILER HOLDING THE SUSPENSION DOWN, AT TIMES FOR 1-2 DAYS. THIS PROPABLY ISNT GOOD EITHER IS IT.

strapping it down will cause the spring to sag faster how much? who knows. It is not your shock. Ask MBR44 and Proxrider. both mounted rear shocks upside down and tore the remote reservoir off and lost all the oil and gas. Sled came up just like normal. The springs carry the sled not the shocks. The shocks just control it.

crafty, how did you tell that the gas was down?

I measured it with a guage

fronts were like 100/150
center was 130ish
and rear was full
Walker wants these shocks at 200 all around

I have new stack and pistons because this was set up for grandma but now we will se it may be set up for levi.

Walker has been VERY helpfual and I appreciate that, but if they blow again I am going to be very upset. (They did the last rebuild themselves)

Mine didnt used to do this when new. I used to be able to lift up on the bumper, and it would stay. It now sags a good few inches. Its the springs sacking out. I've seen all Edge sleds suffer from this. Just crank up the springs one notch. Its what I did and its fine now....till next year. I've heard some say that square wire spring does this faster than round...Who knows?

I believe the spec is 3-4" from no rider to rider. It should say in your manual. I always start with the factory specs.

MINE HAS ABOUT 4-5 INCHES OF NOTHING. LIFT IT UP AND IT DROPS 4-5 INCHES. I HAVE EVERYTHING SET AS LOW AS IT WILL GO. IS SOMETHING WRONG OR SHOULD I PUT MORE STIFFNESS ON SUSPENSION.

This topic has been brought up before as I had some issue on my 03Px7. When I would get off sled it would not rebound up. I got shocks rebuilt by deycore here in MN, and wow what a diff, when you get off sled, rebounds back up the 3 inches or so. Granted once I get off I can still lift bumper up another 3 inches or so but this is normal from what I have been reading.......

so poo x7 how do you explain that a shock can hold a suspension down? If a shock has preasure that preasure wants to get out. That preasure then works against the area of the shock rod and piston in attempt to equalize. The shock rod ultimately tops out in the shock. The gas/preasure does not care which side of the floating piston it is on, It just wants to get out. and pushes the shock shaft out. It can be a completely blown shock and still exert the same force on the shock shaft. You can have a low presure oil shock and it will exert no presure and the suspension will return. Same as the 2 guys that had no oil and their suspensions still returned to ride height.

There is one exception I have seen to this and that is on old poorly taken care of shocks. I have seen some with lots of rust and trash. That the entire vavle stack was plugged and the gas got to the top side of the piston. This actually held the shock shaft in. These pro x sleds aren't old enough to be that bad.

I am not saying shock can hold suspension down, all I am saying is that it is normal for you to be able to lift rear bumper a few inches, what matters is when you get on and off sled, it should rebound up. I trust your judgement better than mine as you rebuild shocks........

3" sag is normal in all the Pro X line,it's the way the back suspension works.The least ski pressure in the front will get rid of the sag,the more u tighten the front ski pressure the more sag in the rear.The best setting is the 2003 Pro X 700,it sags about 3"s.It's the way the suspension is coupled,under full acelaration the suspension moves back and tightens the track and gives full travel.You can run the tracks real loose on all the Pro X line because they tighten under accelaration,there's nothing wrong with ur spring or shocks,the rear skid is made to work this way.

How many miles did you have on this sled when you had the shocks rebuilt? Did you store it with weight off the suspension or have it sitting flat on the track?

I was out riding a few weekends ago and could have swore that I heard my rear shocks topping out. This is common on bikes but never heard of it on sleds. Anyone else ever experience this?

thank you brock. thats what i wanted to hear.

Don't worry about it. It's due to the tilt in the ProX bulkhead. Even AFJ's ProX with the Edge skid does this same thing.

I had about 1800 miles on sled when I rebuilt shocks a few weeks ago, not sure about storage as I bought sled used with 1400 on her. GOt a hell of a deal though.....3500 in the summer, dudes wife was prego and he needed cashola. Rebuilding the shocks helped a TON! PUtting new clutch springs and weights helix in it next week to make her go better.

I have 600 miles on my 03 Pro X and the rear suspension basicly sits on the ground.. I hardly even been jumping the sled or nothing, i tried all 3 settings and they didnt even effect it.

This is pissing me off, dont even try to tell me its sapose to be like that because its not. This sled basicly sits on the ground with rider off. What is the problem? I find it hard to believe the shocks are already faded same with the spring.

I'd tell you it's supposed to be like that, but since you wouldn't believe me anyways...

The Pro X in the photo at the bottom of your post is not sitting on the ground. Mine does not sit on the ground. Which way is it supposed to be?

pro x 600 it is not the shocks. Maybe the springs are shot. Try a new set or measure the open angle of the springs. Anything outside spec is junk.

Ok, let's clear up the confusion on the Pro suspension. I'll start with saying that for the first time,since I bought mine, we have had local snow. I got tons of "tuning" time in. Here is what I have found:

First off, IMO the sled comes from the factory with an extremely retarded set up. It was set up for cornering, and that is about all the sled was good for outside of very high speed bumps.

Second. The sled can be made to ride VERY well with the stock components.

On to the info your all waiting for. :div20: On the front of the skid there is a cross brace/bar that is also the bar for the limiter straps. Going down the rails about 2 inches or so there is a set of holes (one on either side). Take the bar for the limiter straps and move it to the LOWER set of holes. This in fact loosens the limiter straps allowing the skid to be "freed up" more. Makes the skid work very much like an XC skid now. Now I have PP ski's, so from hear on out is MY set up, it might NOT work for you, but it's a start. I have my front springs set at 5 turns from snug (snug means the springs were loosened to the point of , well, being loose. Then they were tightened up until moderate pressure could not get them to be pulled off the seats. In other words the springs were "seated".). The skid shock spring is 2 turns loose from factory setting, and the torsion spriings are set on medium. There is no more "set in" and the ride is very nice. This set up, with the PP skis, and the sled just rails for me. I have yet to bottom out hard either, and I've taken flight pretty good with it. Good luck. Pic attached shows the holes in the skid rails and where the strap bar should be.

The manual says that the track should be run loose, much more so than the xc. Since the skid is now set further down, do you still run the track loose?

I think I will try this set up tonight after I get home from the kids basketball game if it does not run too long.

Didn't have to touch the track tension. I run about 1 1/2 inches sag, unweighted.

look at this picture http://partsland.com/index.cgi?N=110808145...RO-X-SUSPENSION

Part 19 goes in that hole. It is a cross brace added in 2004 to keep the shock hose out of the track.

It's wrong. #19 does not go into that hole, it goes into a hole farther down the rail. Atleast that's the way the factory Pro-X manual shows it. Actually, I think they have the nut and washer lined up with the correct hole, and the trace line for the bolt going to the wrong hole.

I think I figured out why my suspension was sagging so much.... Went to put my 2 1/4" track on for Wyoming and when I too the rear suspension out, the aluminum brackets which mount the suspension to the tunnel were destroyed. All the splines were worn right out of the brackets and the suspension shaft. It must have been loose for a while, because it wore right down to the bolt that holds it together. Have never seen that before, but may want to check....... Hopefully that will fix my problem????
Also noticed my inner wheels on the bottom destroyed. I read some old postings, and it seems like people are taking them out. Anyone had problems with this????
Thanks..........

I better be checking this out on mine. I have not had the suspension saag yet....

I question loosening the limiter straps. My sled with a little more front spring tension, a little less front track shock tension and RSS on the low setting (stock hole) transfers a ton when on the throttle. I would think this would make it transfer more which would not be desirable.

I know you said you had powder pro's but I don't think changing skis would help me because they don't touch the ground!


Jeff

The PP's are about a half inch taller from the bolt hole, to the ground compare to the stock ski's. PP's touch the ground no problem at all. Another thing to try with stock ski's is shorten up the limiter straps while the rod is in the lower position. It might do the trick. IMO, the limiter straps are at a much better angle in the rear hole position. I have my rrss set on forward hole, high and get very little transfer on the trails.

Interesting.........

A little off topic but....

For JB shocks and or AFJ:

Will a Edge skid bolt into the PROX tunnel or are the mounting holes different?
if they are can you drill new holes in the existing mounting plates where they are without relocating them?

AFJ, did you put a edge skid in your prox?

Yes, AFJ put a 136 EDGE skid under his Pro. He also has said something about being banned from here too, so I'm not sure if he will respond. Go to Ultimate snowmobiler to ask him.