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HCS Snowmobile Forums > Snowmobile Forums > Polaris General Discussion > Fusion/IQ chassis
RippinFusion
I was out yesterday playing in the new snow and busting drifts. I opened my hood and reached my hand in near the clutches and noticed that the belt was pretty hot and the clutches were also really hot. I have been hearing about this but had never checked it myself. Are there any cures for the this?

Is this a common issue?
fusion900
My 50th is the same and Polaris has no fixes. My belts only last 150 km before they start to fray.
trail5sledder
your fusion should be running in the range of 7400-7500 rpm. check the following for you guys that are not shifting out high enough. torque stop( should be in the .010"-.030" clearance) check clutch offset. this shoud be 5/8" of a inch.also make sure that driven clutch has float in it. at least .030". make sure that the weights are not hanging up. also check center distance of clutchs. have seen some bad motor mounts already. also for you guys doing alot of trail riding you can go to a 41 lower gear and need the longer chain but this helps with belt heat. epi makes a clutch kit that work great for the fusion. hope this helps out
ColdHeart
QUOTE(trail5sledder @ Jan 24 2005, 12:35 PM)
your fusion should be running in the range of 7400-7500 rpm. check the following for you guys that are not shifting out high enough. torque stop( should be in the .010"-.030" clearance) check clutch offset. this shoud be 5/8" of a inch.also make sure that driven clutch has float in it. at least .030". make sure that the weights are not hanging up. also check center distance of clutchs. have seen some bad motor mounts already. also for you guys doing alot of trail riding you can go to a 41 lower gear and need the longer chain but this helps with belt heat. epi makes a clutch kit that work great for the fusion. hope this helps out
*



What longer chain? The Fusion runs a 92p and it is my understanding that this is the only chain there is.
mike500
QUOTE(trail5sledder @ Jan 24 2005, 08:35 AM)
your fusion should be running in the range of 7400-7500 rpm. check the following for you guys that are not shifting out high enough. torque stop( should be in the .010"-.030" clearance) check clutch offset. this shoud be 5/8" of a inch.also make sure that driven clutch has float in it. at least .030". make sure that the weights are not hanging up. also check center distance of clutchs. have seen some bad motor mounts already. also for you guys doing alot of trail riding you can go to a 41 lower gear and need the longer chain but this helps with belt heat. epi makes a clutch kit that work great for the fusion. hope this helps out
*




Leave the gears alone. You'll have xc 500's passing you with a 41T lower gear. This thing has plenty of power down low and it shifts out all the way as it is. For cooler belt temps, I have installed two of SLP's flow rites into the tub of the sled directly in front of the drive clutch (behind the shock tower) and also added a heat removal vent (from SLP) into the removable side panel. This has helped tremendously with high belt temps. I will use my infrared laser temp guage this weekend to see exacly how hot the belt is.
RippinFusion
Can you post a picture of the flow rites and side panel so I can see what you did exactly?

Thanks!
kurtz
polaris wants dealers to change to 40 tooth gears to cut down on belt heat part # 3222099 which will loose a couple MPH. Thanks Polaris there to slow already.
mnmsnowbeast
QUOTE(mike500 @ Jan 24 2005, 02:41 PM)
Leave the gears alone.  You'll have xc 500's passing you with a 41T lower gear.  This thing has plenty of power down low and it shifts out all the way as it is.  For cooler belt temps, I have installed two of SLP's flow rites into the tub of the sled directly in front of the drive clutch (behind the shock tower) and also added a heat removal vent (from SLP) into the removable side panel.  This has helped tremendously with high belt temps.  I will use my infrared laser temp guage this weekend to see exacly how hot the belt is.
*

I am glad someone has added the slp removable plate with fins on it,i was thinking of cuting the slot for it in the door thru the foam,but i have already added the flowrites several weeks back and most of my heat went away.
Pol900
now have 1256 miles on my original belt.
Twotoes104
I have just under 400miles on my first belt. I have not been parking inside after a run, which added a million or so pounds of ice build up. Took three days to get rid of it all. Changed the original plugs, and wow, 109- 111 not a problem. Still not enough, but better than before.HAve not had an issue with my belt as of yet, but putting in the flow rites seems to be a good idea.
bonz50
QUOTE(RippinFusion @ Jan 24 2005, 10:10 AM)
I was out yesterday playing in the new snow and busting drifts.  I opened my hood and reached my hand in near the clutches and noticed that the belt was pretty hot and the clutches were also really hot.  I have been hearing about this but had never checked it myself.  Are there any cures for the this?

Is this a common issue?
*

hyperlight secondary will drop 20-40 degrees out of your clutch... and improve performance like you wouldn't believe...
sideways
If i owned a Fusion I would scoth-brite the Primary faces, and in the secondary i would disasemble and crosshatch sand the faces with 80grit,yes 80. Sno cross guys been doing this for years. No slip,no heat, better acceleration , and better on the belt. slippage rasises hell with belts. I have been doing this with my sleds forever and they perform . m2c.gif flag_usa.gif
ROSEAU ROCKET
get rid of the foam !! it's a heat soak and install 2 flowrites in side panel,i would stay away from putting one in the shock well ...or front , if a stick or a ice chunk put a hole in it you would be ingesting snow all over your clutches!! that would really suck!!
ExcursionPSD
Well it looks like Trail5Sledder took good notes during the Friday Conference Call. Maybe some of the people on the forum should read and follow these notes.

Hyvo Chains 3/4" wide for 11.35" Center distance Fusion Chaincase
90p 3221158
92p 3221157
94p 3221156
96p 3221161

Also, for those of you who have have been looking at the chaincase gearing and MPH chart. Read it carefully. The MPH it gives is based on JACKSHAFT RPM. You will have to factor in the overdrive effect from the clutching on your own.

In our area, the clutch kit from Reichard Performance (RPC) has fixed a lot of top speed, belt life problems.

I am not aware of any Polaris recommendations for airbox modifications, as others have mentioned. They did say they are working on belt cooling problems, but primarily for the RMK models.
mnmsnowbeast
QUOTE(bonz50 @ Jan 24 2005, 08:58 PM)
hyperlight secondary will drop 20-40 degrees out of your clutch...  and improve performance like you wouldn't believe...
*

Are you running the stock hyperlite or the bearcat O.D. and how much speed increase have you seen compared to stock set up.
bonz50
stock hyperlight... put it this way, last year with a 121x1 track, stock 25/41 gearing, and a dialed in team clutch mine would run about 107-109 on the speedo, now, with a 136x1.75 track, 21/40 gears, and the hyperlight clutch (not even completely dialed in yet) i'm able to hit 103 indicated and sled is still accelerating, this is down a rail grade on a short burst, less than 1000' rolling from about 20-25mph on up... the team clutch does not overdrive well at all, the hyper does and still manages lower heat in the belt and clutch (you can literally grab it and hold on as long as you want, both belt and clutch instead of burning yourself)... simply one of the best mods you could do to any sled
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