Guys, now that we have this forum I'll list stuff that my Fusion's had go wrong after 860miles.
I've gone through 3 belts
While going across 1st conn. lake, my sled quit at wot. after 1/2 hr of looking, we found that the fuel pump harness was dangling and rubbing the secondary clutch only at wot. It eventually ground thruogh a wire.

My exhaust temp sensor failed after 300 miles and kept flashing the engine light.
We pulled off another sled at my deale and that fixed the problem.

I switched to C&A Pro skiis and 7.5" Shaper bars, this thing turns on a dime now. I'd like to try 10" shaper bars on the stock skiis. So far no one has got this thing to turn with those skiis. Any ideas?

ANyway I'll post other stuff later, now that I don't have to worry about the 'Cat guys. Hopefully this forum will work.
Pete

Guy I ride with; "fyoushun" on this site; switched the stockers out for the Polaris "Snowcross ski." Those seemed to work pretty well on the hardpack conditions I was riding with him on.

Hi 69 and matt,i switched to the same skis that matts friend is using,but for more agressive turning,i am using my old ski-doo precision skis,when i really want to carv. Has anyone been leaking coolant,not sure where it is coming from,when on trailer or ground,green blood,in little puddles,and when i opened up hood,some on head,and it did not look like it was from splashing around on inside of hood,and dripping down??? My dealer said to drive it some more and keep an eye on bottle,but bottle is low when cold and right up when warm........????? Still the absolute best speed on perfect cond. was 110 gps and digital was at 113 but last time on same conditions 108 gps than 104 and still holding 7450 rpms and i am down one tooth top to 24

hey redmach,I've been following all post regularly and I think your fusion work's better than most of ours.I have had reflash done(recently) and can only get 102mph on digtal speedo,vibration I don't find that bad but fuel mileage is terrible.I'm getting around 8-9 mpg after reflash.my engine light is still flashing(5 times) dealer thought it must have been loose but I guess it broke.anyhow let us know of any mods you've tried,I'm looking for topend #'s 110-115 would be great. :cn:

Hey parkindale how far are you running for your top speed of 102 and on what conditions were they,i thought mine was bad,at least i have seen 110 gps or 113 digital,but when we have two 700s and a 600 that run right with me,you can imagine how disappointed i am,funny my dealer was telling me how much faster this sled would be over my old 03 rx1 but it just has not been so far,no where in the powerband has it been better than my one ton after i got it clutched,it ran 117 gps with my fat ass on it 250# and it seemed to run the same way as the fusion,if you run on very hard cond. ice/very hard snow,it runs the fastest,if not it slows down alot more than some sleds,now we all know all sleds slow down in lose snow,but the fusion is just as bad as my old one ton,and that was terrible.

beast, how is the Fusion in deep snow? Curious about the track's approach angle.

when I reached 102mph I was on hardpak rd(very similar to ice),as far as distance I went about 1/2 mile(trust me there was nothing left) I really hope someone can help me with these issues or I'll be snowchecking something else.It is my first polaris and I had great hopes for this thing but so far not I'm not impressed.I'm glad to see that rob started this(teck talk) maybe you guy's with good result's will post them here. :div20: :cn:

Mine had the engine flashing 5 times, that's the exaust temp sensor and needs to be replaced, I made them pull one off the sled on the showroom floor. Also, We're finding that the secondary clutch spring might be bad. Mine was shifting at 7500rpm and dropped to 7100 as well as the 2 Fusions I ride with. I'm putting in a new spring tomorrow, Polaris says it has to run between 7400 and 7500rpm. Also guys, check your caster/camber. Mine was correct on the right side but had 0 on the left, causing the sled to pull to the left with my new C&A skiis which are very agressive. You may not notice it with the garbage stock skiis. Mine will do 109mph on hardpack. I weigh 190lbs and have 1.45" studs which I think help.

Some problems I have had with my fusion after 1176 miles.I'm on my 4th belt dealer gives me new ones at no charge which is good.My exhaust has melted a couple holes right through next to the exhaust hole.My weights were rubbing so I filed them down until my new primary comes in.Torque stop was at .055 I reset it at .025.I've tried a bunch of clutching and it seems like nothing works on this engine.Right now I am having trouble getting over 105mph on hard packed.I am reving at 7500rpm.Had an overheating problem and it was linked to a bad rad cap.Changed that and it was fixed.Rear light came lose and almost fell out,tightened that back up and it was not fun as there is no space to get your arm in there.Front springs came undone and rubbed all the paint off my WE shocks.The middle shock seems to bottom out very easy.Any help would be appreciated.The handeling is not to good.Likes to push through corners,seems to be fairly tippy.Things I like about my fusion.I like the bottom end torque from the motor just has no top end.The gas mileage is good for a 900 I am getting 11-12mpg riding powder and ungroomed trails and 15.5mpg or better riding groomed trails at speeds of 70mph average.The front suspension is awesome in the big bumps.The gauges are easily the best in the business and the rider select steering is very nice.

hey guys finally got in here,first just got back from a little ride at Cloughs.Sled now has just under 1200 miles on it. I'm still on my original belt and it still looks like new.Vibration doesn't seem too bad on mine but you feel the 1 1/4" track on the real hard packed snow and ice.I have 240 picks in it now and I still got 106 on the packed snow but wasn't done pulling just that the snow is too loose.Sled seems to run better everytime I take it out.I pulled off the piece of shit stock skis and put on a set of Simmons flex skis with 6" carbides, well worth the $400.I have the limiter strap in the stock hole and put 6 turns on the pre load of the front track shock, it doesn't bottom out now,I took half of the preassure off of the ski springs, ckeck nut is half way up the threads, I can take this thing into the turns at 60 to 65 and it stays flat and turns on a dime.The only real problem was when the intake sensor came unplug and the check engine light kept flashing three times, dealer told me what the code was for and I fixed it myself.I've been averaging around 11 mpg.My sled was one of the first delivered, got it Sept 28th
Chris

How was Clough? might go there tomorrow.

Good to see this forum, hopefully this will be a productive place for information.

My Fusion has had more quirks than any previous Polaris before it even hit the snow, but then again they're not the type of things I'd get overly concerned about. I suspected this from the beginning, first year sled anyone with any experience must have known this up front.

1. Oil line clip
2. Weights hit the spider.... I ground the spider sounds like someone may have ground the weights? oooops?
3. Reflash, although I was going to opt not to do it, the dealer talked me into it. To me, this should be a common thing with ANY modern sled ECU... Mapping only improves with age.
4. The temp probe instructions gave me a hanfull of Fusion hood not having undone the wire harness clip prior to pulling the hood loose from the bumper.

I've less than 200 miles on the machine which isn't much I know, but so far aside from the above, all systems are normal. Sled pulls hard, corners tight and puts a grin on my face whenever I'm on it. I did have some earlier concerns with belt longevity and the heat produced, I think the torque stop did the trick... Looking at the belt the other day and I verified it with infrared temp earlier, it didn't appear any different than I'd expect givin my mileage and related trackspin issues. Sled needs studs in a big way... I'm trying to get away from them for simplicity reasons mostly but am beginning to think I haven't spent the past 15 years using studs for nothing. As for mileage... I really CGARA but so far, I'm not disappointed in the sled's fuel use.

I do have an issue which hasn't been fully identified just yet but will know soon. My brake flutters when used... The flutter is more pronounced at higher speeds but seems to have the same frequency at lower speeds. I ran it on a trackstand and grabbed the pads with my fingers, I'm fairly certain I felt the flutter in doing this as well... Of course it was kind of hard to tell as I can't clamp the pads as hard as the piston does. Dealer will know soon.

I ran the machine the other day at a radar run... In 600ft the best it would pull was 80.7. I know disappointing... BUT actually was a respectable number I think for the conditions. Frozen dirt, no studs and a runoff 1/3 the distance of the run. Fusion spun 2-300ft down the run before grabbing... Pulled the coupler blocks and tried to pussy it 1/3-1/2 way down and got the same results (BTW - real hard to do this as I was afraid I'd get like a 49 or something if I didn't get traction 1/2 way down the run.)

Twin runner skis will slow a sled on top end while being operated on hardpack conditions. They seem to have little effect on ice. Tight center shock spring and tight ski springs will also cut top speed.

Grinding the spider is really the way to go. Grinding the weight tips will change the shift out characteristics. It doesn't take much if your pulling weight off the tip. If the weights are ground then they need to be balanced or a vibration up through the bars will occur.

I'm pretty happy with my Fusion. I have had it up to 108 across a lake in fair conditions. Fuel milage is around 10. I'm running stock skis with 8inch carbides and limiters up one hole. She turns pretty well, but it is a handfull when ridin hard on the icey trails we had in northern Wi. this past weekend with no studs.

That vibration is sickening. I put a shok bloker on and it still buzzes the bars. Its not real bad,but is always there. Some one said its not worse than a 800-Wrong, I rode my old XC8 this weekend to and its buttery smooth compared to the Fusion.I also like the soft seat the 8 had. The old 8 was a GREAT sled but sure doesn't suck up the crap like the Fusion does.

Have you guys noticed that it seems like the ripsaw needs a lot of loose snow to keep cool. maybe its just cause I'm a big guy.

How are you checking track temp Roger? Matt and I noticed we had built up black colored snow on our skids while his dad had pure white on a full clip... No visible wear on the closed windows? I'm swaying further into studs tonight and a set of them SLP hifax doohickies. BTW - I don't think down the middle only will do the trick as there's no support???

was not bad for this time of year.They groomed all the main trails completly.It needs more snow in the wooded trails but the roads were full throttle.You can buzz back and forth on drew lake and the spill way,if you head towards hillsboro there is a trail closed but they cut a new one.if you come to the fence turn around and you'll see the new trail that shoots off to the left about 500 yards back that will bring you to the covered bridge in contoocock.
Chris

down the middle was no good, you need to put some on the outside.

Not sure yet joe,as the snow the last time out was only 4" now we have 1.5 feet sled back in shop,for coolant leak,and a leak down test,will post later.

My sled is totally stock. It has run 116 on glare ice conditions.

Same day 10 minutes later on a groomed trail, top speed 101.

Dealer certainly scratching his head over this one.

As I never ride on glare ice I am going to go 1 tooth smaller on the top gear and see if this will get more top end when pushing some snow.

Good luck been there done that,no differance,if anything lost top end speed,and in 4-5" of snow no better,my boys prox7 goes right on by by...

Well joe i just got back from the trails and lake we now have 1ft. to 1.5 on ground,and fusion goes the same as it did in 4" about 90 gps or a little under and 98 digital on speedo thru 1 ft.of snow up to 1 mile but it dont take 1 mile to top out in that much snow,and rpms are 7500-7600 on hard pack or light duff down 1 on top gear.

While the ripsaw track is awesome for holeshots, I wonder if it cuts top speed. Matt and I swapped rides this last weekend. He has a Ripsaw and I have the 6 pitch 9819. He noticed more vibration at higher speeds with the ripsaw. I didn't pay much attention. Vibration equates to lost energy. So, has anyone tried a different track on a good running Fusion? Results?

:cn:
hey redmach when your exhaust temp screwed up,did it afect your top end? Just wondering if this mite be why I'm not seeing any good speeds.

Didn't seem to make a difference. You should change it though, I think it does hurt cruising fuel mileage and performance.

Hey mnm, are you saying that 600s are staying with you from top to bottom? Top end I could see but bottom through mod....no way. Not only that but by 1000 feet you should have enough of a lead it would take them a mile to catch up.

AFJ, about the powder thing, I've yet to ride a sled that will go through powder like the Fusion will. No comparison to my Pro-X or XCs. It is so easy to control in deep snow but get it burried and...Yikes! Although even a 500 lb sled is no fun to dig out.

Only problems I've had are the vibration and gas mileage. Did I mention the gas mileage? Also, checked my track tension yesterday and it is waaaay loose. Might have something to do with the vibs.

As far as performance gains, I just got off the phone with a guy who knows his sleds(Fusion included) and he's cut the head, ported his cylinders and tried every clutching/gearing combo known to man with no luck. Also, he raced three different Machs and the bone stock out of the box Machs would have 1-2 lenghts in 1700 feet. Clutched they were 10-12 lengths ahead. Would be nice if we could get some results like that from clutching the Fusions.

Also, I spoke with Polaris Canada today and there is another reflash coming as well as fixes for vibration and clutch issues(overheating). Wasn't told timeframe but sooner than later. This is good news.

You are right wood,my bottom end is much stronger than a 600 but not a 700 and i do top end my 600 but it only tops out at 95 gps with me on it.

The fusion must hold its rpm between 7400-7500 the whole time during a run or it will fall on its face. I can pull between 113-115 consistently on good ice if it stays in that range. Otherwise it just will not give good top end speed. The weights hitting the spider and the fact that the stock springs go away in 600 miles all have an effect on performance of this sled. It seems to be very picky as to what rpm it will run at.

Dropping a tooth shouldn't hurt top end much.
When I went to Canada the other week I ran everything stock but had 120 studs down the middle and put on powder pros. Had a chance to drag on a lake about 900ft. 98 mph was the highest I hit at 7300 rpms. The primary still had 3\4 of an inch left on it when I got home as I marked the clutches before I left. Rode about 650 miles. This sled oulls so hard on the trails it made my hands swell. I loved it!
As for the clutching...........I think it sucks. I just put in 76gr belly busters with the green\black 62-42 helix with red\black spring and 23\39 1.69 ratio. Pulls like a rocket right up to 105 and stays there at 7600rpm. Clutches shift all the way out. Although this low of gearing will never go any faster it get there without any hesitation. Not into 1\2 mile lake runs just like a quick sled for the trails and un organized lake drags.
The gearing and the red\black spring I believed has helped with lowering my clutch temps. I have 78 and 80gr weights yet to try and may buy a steeper helix after some more testing.
Also put in the rest of my studs (192). Was hoping not to have to put them in but just studing the center doesn't cut it with this much power.
Still testing.............................

Yes black you are on the right track,with your clutching,now once you get it set up,go back to stock gearing,i bet it will shift out and still pull it,i am back to my base weight supertips that base 60 grms. and have them up to 81 again,but have the secondary soft with the blue/red spring but have the rmk helix 64-38 .360 it pulls very hard,and black/green primary 7500-7600 no matter what cond.i am in hard ice 2 miles soft deep snow,lose wet snow,just pulls and pulls with the proper rpms,but will not go over 110 gps on perfect ice????? I think my skid is slowing me up,as i have 9830 camo track and it has a very loose back end and heavy front,we are working on it as we speak,and getting 10 tooth installed tomorrow,should help attack angle.

Yo! Back to my question about the Ripsaw track. Does it cut top speed? Has anyone tried a different style track?

of course it does the lighter the track the faster you go on top

I understand that. But it wasn't my question. I'll be more specific. Has anyone tried either a 6 pitch or full block track? Whether it be 1.25" or 1".

I have a camoplast fully clipped .75" track with 192 ice picks in it and dont see a noticable difference in speed over the ripsaw even on top end.

Thanks, wfo. That's the info I was looking for.

its not the ripsaw. the rx-1 has less hp and more weight with the same ripsaw and gets 115 radar without much fuss. do any of you guys have 2-3 inches of susp sit in? mine is really stiff. dont like the seat either. too slippery. any ideas?

Velcro? :beerchug:

Strip it! The seat that is... Try washing it with some Simple Green or similar. I weigh 175 and can get a couple inches sit in on low spring (basically stock setting). Love the fact I can adjust the headlight beam quickly after adjusting transfer.

Just got back from Quebec last week and completed a 1500 mile loop: I now have 2300 miles on my Fusion.

A few ramblings:

My sled had the walker evans upgrade package. They work incredibly well and the adjustability feature is great. I'm a big fan. I have my ski shocks set pretty soft (about 1/3 preload on the threads) and the WE's set at 4 clicks preload. I weigh 215.
This front end is the best I've ever ridden. Flat handling and predictable. My rear skid shock is set at 6 clicks. My front skid spring is set at 1/3 preload and the WE is set at 4 clicks. Only issue with the Walker Evans is that the hose clamp screw rings holding the external clicker adjuster to the shock body on the rear skid shock aren't stout enough to hold the adjuster tube to the shock tube when you have a bunch of ice build-up in the lower section of the skid. When the suspension cycles the ice can cram the adjuster tube upwards, jaming the top portion of the clicker wheel into the the suspension frame, boughering the finger adjustment wheel. I've had to move mine twice.

I run at "middle" on the torsion spring setting when running with no touring luggage, and on the "high" setting when on a cross country trip.

I agree that the stock skis with the dual carbides aren't real inspiring in the corners. I switched to the polaris snowcross skiis with an 8" shaper bar and they were a noticable improvement but still not agressive enough for me. I put my Simmons flexi's, with 6" of carbide on, and they were pretty good, but varried too much in consistency when encountering changing snow/trail conditions. {Though the Simmons ski's ability to "widen" your ski stance can be beneficial}. As a last resort, I drilled out the stock skiis, took off the dual carbide, and put the single 8" shaper bars on. I was pretty surprised that this set-up performed noticably better than the .cross skiis off the Pro X, with the same carbides. Reflecting on this i noted that the keel profile of the stock ski is actually more aggressive than the one on the snowcross ski. The stock ski profile is deeper and more "square", with less "rocker" profile than the more rounded keel on the snowcross ski. So for me, in the conditions I have encountered, the best setup is the stock ski, drilled out, with a single 8" carbide shaper bar. (PS. since I settled on this ski set-up, I ran into a guy in Mt-Laurier who had come up with the same set-up as I did, with a special twist: he was running a single bar with 8" of carbide {not a shaper bar} PLUS he kept the OUTSIDE stock carbide on each ski. Kinda a "modified dual runner set-up. He was raving about how it cornered; specially on icy corners).

My sled's top speed (as taken from the digital recall feature) was 106. This was on a lake run with 3-4"s of snow on top of good ice. This was with 35 lbs of touring luggage on a cross country trip. For me, accounting for what I bought this machine for; "fast trail riding", I am quite satisfied with its top speed performance. What this sled is exceptional at is corner to corner. There is none finer. It has more grunt than Elmers hog.

I am on the original belt. No issues there. Vibration is not a mega issue. Yeah, it vibrates more that a 600, but little more than my 04 800 touring. The more miles I have put on, the less vibration is an issue.

The sled is well balanced and confidence inspiring. It is the 27th Polaris I have owned. It is the best sled I have owned.

My only bitch is/was the hard pulling when starting in really cold weather. Three morning last week we were below minus 30F when we fired em up in the morning. that sled pulled like a bitch. The last morning I busted a pawl on the pulley on the recoil. A kindly Quebecquois poo dealer pulled a new pulley off a 900 RMK he had on the floor and got me going again after only a 2 hour wait.

My only other issue it that I'm tach-ing out at 7200 - 7300, max. Have since day one on my first ride in the Mts-Valins at the end of November. I need to address the spring issue and get her up to 7400 - 7450 where she belongs. I'm leaving a little performance on the table.

Hey timbo, how's your gas mileage?

Guys my sled today and yesterday is cutting in and out in the power band almost like I had water in the gas but that now is ruled out and it is still doing it.It is bogging and sounds like it is going to blow up.Any suggestions.

Happened a couple times to me today. Nothing as persistent as you, just cut out for a second. I would be rolling at 20 mph or so(4000rpm +/-) and when I would pin it, it would stall for a second like a lean bog and then take off. Thought nothing of it. My secondary is making some strange noises at low rpms too....kind of like rocks in a blender but only around 4000 rpm(+/-). Sled's just getting old and wore out I guess.

[quote=Wood,Jan 30 2005, 10:33 PM]
Happened a couple times to me today. Nothing as persistent as you, just cut out for a second. I would be rolling at 20 mph or so(4000rpm +/-) and when I would pin it, it would stall for a second like a lean bog and then take off. Thought nothing of it. My secondary is making some strange noises at low rpms too....kind of like rocks in a blender but only around 4000 rpm(+/-). Sled's just getting old and wore out I guess.


lol they are getting old fast.I was hoping mine would blow up yesterday or today but nope it hasn't yet.

check your fuel pump/guage connector. mine was hanging loose, rubbing the secodary clutch and finally broke the wire and the sled quit.

thanks 69mach I will check and see after I get it back from the dealer or I will check when I go see about it.They tried telling me it was due to bad spark plugs,it's funny because I just changed them about 200miles ago.I checked them yesterday and they were chocolate brown.I guess I will just have to go see what they say about what you recommended checking.

do you still have stock exhaust or did you install a can?I installed an slp can and now it flutter's a little now and then.A friend of mine noticed same problem with his,must have something to do with backpressure

I was having problems with just the slp can on and I have changed spark plugs again to see if that makes a difference.It seemed to make a difference but I blew another belt and that was the end of my day.

Just try putting your stock can(35lbs suitcase) back on and I'll bet your problems with engine cutting out will be cured.I dont see how changing your plugs is gonna cure anything?

That's what I told the dealer's mechanic but he said plugs.I am going to switch out tomorrow after I get 2 new belts and I will let you know how it goes.

I put 100 miles on SLP can,right out of the garage it had a bog at 6500 6800 rpm. Switched back to stock problem gone. Returned can this morning for full refund. Dealer said because machine was making more HP probley would have to make some clutch changes,which i do not believe as i have had several sleds and just added cans with no clutch changes. :div20: