Sled is a 96 XLT Sp

SLP triple pipes, air box and heads 145,147,145 compression with a snap on gauge.

Jetting is almost spot on at 280 mains, 35 pilot's idle is set for 1800-2000 rpm's

Currently trying a EPI red pri (145-300), EPI yellow secondary (46-71), w/a Polaris 36* helix (Have tried both the second and third hole)

We have tried, 46g, 47g, 48g, and a set of 51g weights.

The sled comes in right at 5000 rpm's, (which is OK, was shooting for between 4500 & 5000 RPM engagement) But the shift out RPM is way too high, shoots to 10,00 and then settles down to around 9500 in only 300 feet, need to get it down to around 9000 and hold there until full shift out.

Any ideas???? I need to get this sled set up for this weekend, this is our first trip of the season and this sled belongs to the guy whose house we are going to, so he needs to be able to ride or we are out of a place to stay!!

I don't need a drag clutch set up, just a good all around aggressive trail set up.

Thanks for any help you guys can give Bob

First, take the SLP airbox off. It pulls underhood air, which gives inconsistent jetting, as it will pull hot or cold air depending on the speed of the sled. Put the stock airbox back on, but completely gutted. Lift the gauge plate on the dash as high as you can with spacers, you may need longer screws. Get the vent fittings from a 97-98 XLT Ltd., install one for each carb, just above and to the side of the carb hole in the airbox. Vent each carb to it's own fitting, removing the hoses from the handlebars. If it seems jetted right now, you will need 3 sizes bigger mains. The 96's I set up made power, and liked to bang 10,000, without a multi angle helix. Use either the stock red #3, SLP black, or the best is a hot seat white #2. Use a polaris light blue primary spring, hot seat white, erlandson black, or white. The primary needs to be a 280 finish rate. Use a R12, or hot seat HSP36, 36S helix. At the least a R8 helix (50/34). For weights, 10MB most likely. The 96's I put SLP pipes on would overrev with 10MW, which they were supposed to run. Gear down a bit to 20/39, or 19/39. Make sure the clutch alignment is good, th eengine torque stop set tight, and the primary clutch belt to sheave clearance set to .010" to .020" with a new 3211070 belt.

Thanks, I have read about the air box deal but the old box is gone and long forgotten, so that is out of the question for the near future. We tried a 42-34 multi tonight along with a set of 46g weights and the thing is still pulling 10,000! The thing is that the thing runs like a scalded dog with the clutching being what it is right now but I know that this motor won't take that kind of abuse for long before blowing sky high. !0 grand is just too much for this little triple. We were hoping to get by with the parts we had on hand, but it seems that we will have to order up some more helix's and some springs!

The 42/34 may work, but with 47.5 gram 10MB weights, and the stock red secondary spring #3 most likely. With the SLP airbox, still vent the carbs to the airbox. Much more consistent carb venting. You also need a 280 finish rate primary spring.

I forgot to add, I had a guy who had 144" his 96 XLT SP, and I put the SLP triples and heads on for him. I had to use a 44/40 helix, and 10M5 weights to not have it hit 10,000. It was geared down quite a bit though, for the mountains, about 70 mph top end. It ran hard with that set-up though, way heavier weights and more helix than I would have thought though. I used to use the 44/40 for drags with a ported, piped, 95 XLT SKS.