I just picked up an M7 and I was wondering if any of you guys/gals have any advice or opinions on the direction of the track. I know it can be switched around for different terrain (but I don't think its something I'll be doing very often). Which direction works best for you? I know riding style and terrain comes into play but I'd like to hear some opinions.

if you are riding in mostly deep snow ie:climbing boon docking then leve it scoping for take off,other wise scoping for braking, :beer2:

I'd leave it where it is

See the paddle needs to let the snow off or it will fill the tunnel. I think you would break them off if you put it on the other way. I don't have any experiance yet with it. My M6 is on its way and I have not seen it yet. I might just try to flip it to see what it dose too. I am not to sure if it will scoop snow up. I know there is no way I would want it on backwards trying to run water.

Don out.......

From what I've read if you ride in powder leave it in the powder postion and when the snow sets up turn it around to the hillclimb position.

As far as the lugs breaking off, arctic cat in the manual says you can run either way. I'm going to try powder first and maybe as the snow sets up i'll switch it over. A friend of mine last year flipped his track around (not attack 20) on his king kat and man it was a rooster throwing ditch witch but he liked it. ( He never had to ride behind it) so I was just seeing if there was a prevailing opinion I know the powder position sucks on the trail, but after I get some riding in I guess I'll answer my own questions. Thanks for the replies

If i were you I would change it around as soon as possible! I rode a King Cat last year that had some slight mods done. Went riding with a buddy who had a regular MC 9 stock. The track was the way that it comes from the factory. He beat me in every catagory. We turned the track around the next day and went riding. He couldn't even touch me. It took off fast, it pulled harder up the hills, and in the powder top speed was higher. Down side, it throws a roost that is unmatched.

I bought an m7 this year, Took it riding for the first time with the track stock. Some hills on the trail were a pain because of the hard pack on the trail the track doesn't grip it just slides. When it came to the hill same thing. There was about 2 inches of fluff on top of hard pack. Doesn't maintain speed at all the track just spins. So I changed the track around. Peice of cake, took an hour. Tons easier than the King Cat. Went riding Saturday, I was going places and doing things I shouldn't have been able to do. 2 feet of poweder I stopped up hill (maybe 15% incline) Started right back up and started picking up speed as the incline increase. It was amazing. I will never go back. The stock way is great if all you are in is flat ground and bottomless snow. Add any incline or hard snow at all and it sucks. And changing the track on the m7 is so nice. Just undo a couple of bolts. No oil mess to clean up or gears to get back in with a chain. If done in the right order.

Well I ride with lots of guys who mod there sleds but I'm Joe Stocker (READ TOW TRUCK) And I may not get as high as the mod guys but I sure have a great time without some of the headaches I've seen. I've pulled suspensions before but this is a totally different looking deal. Could you give me those steps in the right order? I'm going out to break it in this weekend and of course that will be mostly trails we're still waiting for good snow. I would assume the hillclimb position is best for this riding. Thanks for the info. Also what track are you running? I wanted a 153" but they were long gone by the time I decided to buy. So were all the black hoods.

Set by step

1. Take bolt out of drive shaft. Brake side. (kick in the pants Cat put 120lbs of Torque on it)

2. Take Clutch off.

3. Take nuts of boats around ACT Diamond Drive. (NOT THE SCREWS, made that mistake the first time. It was neat to see how the Diamond drive works though. but had to buy gasket maker and oil) Also remember behind the rubber spacer there is a nut. Spacer is some what easy to put back.

From there you can take it a couple of different ways. This is what I have found to be the easiest.

4. Take suspension out. remeber loosen track all the way so skid frame comes out easy.
I use a rafter and a tie down to hold tunnel up and a strap to hold the top of the track up. makes it easier for next step.

5. Take nuts off where on a regular dive would be a retaining cap for the bearing. Only on the brake side.

This is the sweet part.

Slide drive shaft toward brake side, pull diamond drive case out (that is neat!) you might have to loosen the bolts on the break caliper to be able to get the track past the shaft.

Thats taking it off. here is the easiest way to put it back together.

1. Put drive shaft and diamond drive together and lock in place with nuts.

2. Skid frame. undo the spring supension it will make it easy to put in. Put the front bolts in. Then the rear, with the springs off make sure the shock is in the right possition. So you know they come with the spring off from the factory. *(mechanic for sled shop in West Yellowstone). This will take a lot of the hassel out of trying to mess with the torque sensing link that Cat has. I put mine in the bottom hole in the rear. Drops it maybe an inch, but I like how it worked, your discression.

3. Put clutch on.

4. Put bolt back in. I only put about 100lbs of torque on it. It broke my Socket at that point. I needed new tools anyways. hahaha

5. Tighten track....

6. If you had to loosen the Brake caliper bolts you might need to bleed the brake and and get some brake fluid. The first time I just took the brake off. Second time left it on, it was alot eaiser to get the track out with the brake off, but then I had to bleed the brake and get fluid before I could tighten the clutch up and the drive shaft bolt.

Also so you know they bolt is a safty precaution. The prototype and even some of the test sleds Cat had out at the shows for people to ride didn't have that bolt. They didn't have any problems that I know off, but I feel a little safer with it myself anyways.

Let me know if you have any questions. I probalby won't be able to help on the weekend. I'm moving so Internet will be down until Monday. If you have problems I know there are some guys on the Snowest Forms that have done it acouple of times. Also I'm in UT currently and I can give you my cell number call if need. What ever works for you. Don't know where you are.


Oh yea I Video taped it I'll see if I can get it up so you can see somewhat I'm talking about.

I have the 153" Wanted the 162" but couldn't afford it or the can i would need to put on it so I would have the bottom end performance I want. I haven't been with anyone other than my buddy who has the same sled. The only difference besides color is my i set with the 39" ski stance. His he Kept at the 40". only thing it help is we had some tight spots through the trees that was nice to have an extra inch to give. Handled basically the same saw no difference really. I can see this sled haning with the 159" vertical escapes and revs easily. Only time i can see them out performing the 153" M7 is on a really deep day and only straight climbs. Any time you need to through the sled around this is the one you want to be on. I think I will wait for cat to come out with a m9 or m1 before i get another sled and go the the 162"

The only thing i wish my sled had on it that the LE does is the Float Shocks. Those really are a better shock. Oh well beggers can't be choosers.

Thanks for the instructions. I really appreciate it.

Turned my attack 20 around last year, so so , throws snow, marginally better in corn snow, been riding my m7 in loose powder, best looked up track I ever been on! Very impressive

This is what I said a week ago but have changed what I will be doing. It will go on in the hill climb. It is the best for me with 50/50 boondocking and trail riding.
I spoke to a few guys that ran them last year in the hill climb and they all said the they never had any tair outs and they will leave it on that way. On the trail it keeped the sled cool and if you got into some hard pack it would hook onther than spin.

Don out.......

Just rode this weekend in hillclimp, left the wives in powder pos, it is amazing the differenc, alittle noisier on the trail but man will it go in the snow, climb anything, trees rocks just kidding, it is a big difference though, i will change the wife's this week

What was braking on long steep downhill chutes like with the track reversed(hillclimb pos)?
chris

PS- the track is made for either direction from camoplast.

braking about the same as a normal paddle ttrack that is not attack 20
not as bad as i expected