Wondering how good their clutching is for the SLP single? SLP seems fishy that they only say to add 2g of heavier weights. Doesnt seem like it would do much. Thanks. Just saw today team has a clutch kit for an SLP single pipe.

Why don't you just use the recommendations a few of the guys on here have given you? Team isnt going to out do those. As for the weights...its totally condition dependant...If you're light and ride in more hardpack than powder, you'll probably be able to pull 66 weights, but the sled will not maintain rpm with a steep helix and 66's in powder. SLP gives you a "general" idea of what will work. That way you are guaranteed it will hold rpm in all conditions...they're trying to please everyone. You've also got to remember that the pipe needs a couple hundred more rpm over stock, so lighter weights will upshift harder with more rpm.

I ride in all conditions. Hardpack, loose, powder. I am 210 lbs. SLP is pretty much saying use the stock set-up. I mean there has to be different helix'sand springs to make the sled run better with an aftermarket pipe. I am thinking just to buy a kit, because if they sled doesnt run good with what you all say, then I would be pissed and wouldnt know what to do or how to fix it. Then i'm out like $200. TEAM's kit is only $133. I am going to give team a call tomorrow and find out the specs on their components and see how they compare and go from there. Whats the peak RPM with the SLP single to run at?

8100

not on the big block motor RD... shoot for about 7800-7900... the big block ves does not over-rev at all...

racer is right....... 8100rpm for slp 700ves single pipe

What Bonz said

Trust me, if you run 64 gm weights w/ almond/red and a 70/44.46 helix with a red/blue secondary, your sled will be 90%. The extra 10% could only be extracted if you're really good with clutching, and couldnt be guessed by anyone on the board. You'd have to have a calibrated tach and run a setup and then report back. My guess is that you'll be overrevving slightly...I personally like to run the motor a little higher on the rpm side to make it more responsive in powder and changing throttle positions.

where can I get my tach calibrated? Dealer? I might try your set-up. First tho, I am going to call team and ask them what helix and springs they are running. I will post what they have on here, then compare them. I will more than likely try one, then the other. Nut, is the helix you have new or used? From TEAM, they have new helix's for $89.00 in there magazine I believe.


So I go to my dealer and tell them I want to order a Red/blue secondary spring and an Almond/red primary spring? Whats the specs on them?

Reason I am asking the specs is because the colors of the springs through a deal are different that ordering from team. Because stock spring color from polaris was black and its yellow from team. So whats the specs on the primary spring and the secondary?


Polaris Nut, I might be buying the helix from you. Contact me at roskoski@mchsi.com and send a few pics if you can.

Anyone now what the part number is for the team helix 70/44/.46???
love to get one but haveing trouble ordering it...thanks alot

[quote=bonz50,Oct 24 2004, 05:14 PM]
not on the big block motor RD... shoot for about 7800-7900... the big block ves does not over-rev at all...

[/quote}

Tony, here's SLP Dyno curve, if you have something more accurate, or first hand results, show me.

there probably refering to to dynotech dyno runs,of all the pulls they made with different combos,they made most power between 78-7900.

this was 04 700 ves

subscribe its cheap, bad thing,there really into testing mostly cats right now.

where can I get my tach calibrated? Also, what are the specs on the red/blue secondary spring and the almond/red primary spring?

What color Polaris Springs?

What color Team Springs?

I have 2 team springs I need to return, so if you could give me specs on their springs, I can look up the part numbers I need and just get them exchanged.

Also, Polaris Nut, How many miles on the helix you have?

alm/red is 165 310 pol spring

and the spring colours should be the same for ,team or polaris

I just looked at teams site and 165-310 is an Orange spring from team. You can look here

http://www.tpspro.com/aftermarket/products/page10.aspx

So I know I would need an Orange Primary (165-310) from team. Now what are specs on the secondary Red/Blue Spring?

Polaris Nut- Looked at Teams site and the helix you have is $89.00 Brand new. How much will you take shipped? Also, how many miles on the helix?

you can get a high quality spring from polaris with the same specs.... almond/black #7041816

The prices of the helixes went up again this year. They are 119...trust me. Their website is junk. Last year the price was 100. They now upped it again. The helix has about 500 miles on it. Buy a TEAM red/blue secondary 140/200. Polaris doesnt make springs for the team, so whether its a poo part or a team it will still be red/blue.

The DynoTech article showed the most HP at 8100 with SLP pipe.

Polaris Nut, E_mail me at roskoski@mchsi.com about your helix. I guess I will buy it. Contact me there

If you do not have electronic reverse, (PERC) the cheapest way to order that helix is to go to a Polaris dealer and order part #5133721. That is the stock helix for a 2003 440 Pro-X. It has two sets of angles. A 70/44-.46 and a 66/44-.46. And it lists for $74.99. I ordered one for my sled last spring. It even has a heavier duty bushing in it. Works fine.

I'm not trying to shove it down your throat. I was just offering it to you to save you some money, and I wont be using it anymore. I'll eventually sell it later. If you can get the one above from the dealer for that price, do it. It will work exactly the same. I just called my dealer and it is indeed $75...I never knew they were that cheap from the dealer. Probably just because its a production piece.

Racer

whos going to run 390 mains to get the max HP.?

and feel safe with that

Those 390 jets were for warmer temps...not for -10F...The jetting would have to be corrected for colder air.

So what difference would I feel with the 440 70/44-.46 - 66/44-.46 helix compared to a 70/44.46-70/42.46 helix? Where would the difference be and how?

Nut, I am interested in your helix. When will you be able to sell it? How many miles and its in igood conidition? I am going to take everyones advise here and give that set-up a try. Also Where can I get my tach calibrated at?

for one, the only thing you'd notice is the difference between the 70-44 and the 66-44, the other 70-42 cut is such a small change that it would amount to a tweak that most people wouldn't even notice... the 70/44 - 66/44 is the one i'd want so i had a little more range between them... just me...

So how does the range affect it? Will one have more top end? Just curious where is affects the sled.

the helix with less angle will be better in powder/off trail use.... Not to say that a 66* helix is for a RMK its not , it will not over load the motor as much in deep stuff and it will not spin the track as fast out of the hole (trenching) 70* is a good hard pack /lake with light snow helix. more angle faster upshifts, less angle slower upshifts

what he said... ^^^^^^^

Now that I know that, I'm not too sure how these helix's work. Someone said they will use the otherside of the helix if the track is spinning. I will probably start with the 70*. How will I know where this is and how to put it in? Is it marked where to go or? If you could post a pic of it and how it works that would be greatly appreciated. This is my first TEAM clutch, so not too sure how everything works in it.

ALso, how long would it take to change the side of the helix youare using? So when I am trail riding, and lake riding, I would want steeper helix for more acceleration? Would it backshift good? and 66* because less track spin? Is that how it works? So 66 is less acceleration? I think I will run the 70 at first or do you think this is too much? 66 is more than stock correct?

In my stock 600, I always ran the 70/44.46 without any issues whatsoever. Even in deep powder, the motor maintained rpm...Honestly, you'll never ever tell the difference between a 66/44 and a 70/44...nothing personal, but you're just not aware of the differences enough to notice. For the angles, the first number is the initial angle...the second is the finish angle. The steeper the numbers, the harder the sled will accelerate, as long as the motor can pull it. The 42 finish angle is nice for continuous deep powder riding...When I used that setup, I would run the 70/42 side when water crossing, for more grunt.

Here is my final input on this topic...Go to your Polaris dealer and order part #5133721 for the helix ($79 440ProX helix), ask for an almond/red primary and ask for a red/blue team secondary spring. Install on 66/44.46 and go... The sides are marked. You'll be impressed with the setup. We can sit here all day explaining why this does this and that does that, but in the end, it just does. "How does the Posi-traction in a Hemi work? I dont know, it just does"-Joe Dirt!

so there's only 1 way to put the helix in then correct? not like I have 2 choices on what to run?

Also, where can I get my tach calibrated?

I'm not getting the whole 2 numbers thing. I want the harder acceleration. So I have a choice on the helix whether to run 66 or 70 on it? how do I know what 70 is?

Trust me, there is a noticeable difference between a 70/44.46 and a 70/42.46...The finish angle is very sensitive.

The first # is the angle the helix starts at. Between 66 and 70 you probably won't be able to tell much difference between the two. Unless the starting angle is to much for your sled. The finishing angle will make a difference in rpm's. So there you will see a difference in 42 and 44. The higher the finish angle that will lower your rpms. So say your rpms need to drop down a little you would want to run the 44 instead of the 42. 70-44 is what you want for hard acceleration.

So the 440 helix is what I want, 70/44/.46 and 66/44/.46? Wil my RPMS be right at WOT and everywhere with that helix, ALmod/red and the red/blue springs with 64g weights?

Yes! Go buy it.

2° of finish isn't a huge difference, can you tell, sure, a little but we're talking about 100-200 rpm and the snow conditions are what will make it noticeable, imho

Would you suggest the 440 Helix in a PROX 800?. If so, what other components would you include to get maximum performance and top end. Would 10-66, almond/blue, red/blue with the stock 25-40 gears work well? Thanks....

In my 800 with twin pipes, I used 68g dalton weights, SLP blue yellow primary spring, but later switched to a EPI pink primary spring. For the secondary I used a 72/48 .46 helix for hard packed snow conditions and dropped down to a 70/46 .46 helix for heavier snow conditions. I used a team red/blue secondary spring. This was with stock 25/40 gearing. The sled had good performance all the way up to top speed with this setup and pulled past 120 on the speedometer and was good for 112 mph on radar. I am sure it would have gone faster with a gearing change, as the sled was able to produce this speed stock, but with much less acceleration.

:doh: I purchased this pro-x 800 at a auction last year and dont know what they did with the clutching except I see the almond coler primary, Is there Stamps on the clutch weight so I can see what they did? I also installing the slp single cant waite to hear it.
P.s Its quick till 60mph then its a slouch I think and top end isnt all that great either. My RPM is always in the 7200 range if i remember correct.
I know about moters but clutches im aahhh ummm yea OK What was that again!

On the spring if it's a almond/red it will be all almond color with a small red stripe. The weights are stamped with what they are. Should be running cose to 8000 rpm's. I would go through the clutches to see what you have.

My dealer said it was $95 for the 440 helix. I thought you said $75 new? Where can I find it cheaper on here? Post a link if you can. THanks

http://www.partsland.com/index.cgi?N=10990...R-DRIVEN-CLUTCH

Your dealer is ripping you off. My dealer doesnt give great deals, but does sell right at retail price. I actually get 10% off of any parts (since I bought my sled there), so I could get it for less than $70!

i guess he is. he's given me good prices on other things tho. weird. should i print it off and walk in with it and be like yeah

remember a dealer also has to make money to stay in business. if he has given you his time and knowledge, don't quible over a few dollars

its $20 different. he hasnt really given me any time or knowledge. i just bought a raptor from him and he says hows the wheeler running. doesnt do much else. Also, I am 16, I just spend all my money and a pipe and everything else for it. $20 is alot in my book right now. I am dead broke and I have to buy clutching parts, and pay for gas. $20 is a ride or 2 in my books i can pay for....

have you thought about offering to trade some work for the parts, clean the shop, wash/uncrate sleds wheelers etc?

i havent thought about that. I will look into it. He seems to like me, but doesnt really give deals to anyone here. Thats why we usually buy our stuff from somewhere else.