Just picked up my new/carryover '03PROX800 from the dealer today
for $7500CDN. Pulled most of the info from the site re:jetting/clutching
Only real concern is to what helix to run. With the cost of the Teams
I don't care to experiment any more than I have to. Will be keeping
the 1" track for now. All insight will be appreciated. Thx Glenn/HPJUNKIE

2000' elevation,no groomed trails,no studs,some river/lake running,
190lb rider ,stk engine w/gutted box & re-jetted,24/40,alm/blu pri,
red/blu sec w/shims. :banghead:

Team says #420720. It is a new type of cut, more aggressive than a .46 helix. 66-46-42 on one, and 79-48-44 on the other. For jets you will be safe with 420 to -30C. 24/40 may not fit the case, you may have to go 24/41, or 25/41.

Pockets- thx for the response. As for the gearing 24/40 = no chain adjustment
left I would assume?

Thx Glenn/HPJUNKIE

I would also do the 10-66 weights. Yes, no chain adjustment, or may not fit at all.

Pockets- Sorry swapped the 64's for 66's with the dealer at purchase so I'll
start with those. Thx again for the heads up on the gear info. I've got a 24th
from my '98XC700 which I had geared down (before it got stolen), I'll just have to pick up a 41th and go from there... Thx again Glenn/HPJUNKIE

Also lean the needle 1 clip to #3, and make sure the air and fuel screws are set to the factory specs. Many times they are not from the factory. If the idle hangs up, richen the fuel screws, rather than richening the air screws. The air screws will affect fuel mileage more than the fuel screws.

Pockets- Had the sled out today for a few runs, Ran alm/blue 70.5 cat weights
(My mtn sled is a 03.5 900 MOD) stk helix w/red/blue & derlin washer @ each end,
24/40 gearing fit but my 41 is on order. 410mj 1.5air screw.1.75 fuel screw gutted box w/vari-flow installed. Seldom ride below -20C. Sled still fairly tight(no long pulls) Sled spun & pulled down once achieving traction to 75-7600 & seemed to build slightly to 7700 on 1/8mi pull. This was at approx 0C/1950'. I will be putting on my racepack from my mtn sled to verify tach next weekend. I agree, the idle does "hang up" & I was going to turn in my air screws, but I'll try the fuel's first.

Thx Glenn?HPJUNKIE

The weights are a bit too heavy. Go to the 10-66's. As long as the rpm does not go over 8000, just a touch below 8000 on a long run is ideal. Turn the fuel screws out just 1/8 turn at a time to richen it. If the idle hangup is after hard running, then idles high for a while after stopping, this is normal for a Polaris. It is because the pipe is still hot. If you richen it to the point that it idles down quick, you will lose response and mileage. I would only richen the screws if it won't idle down after hitting the throttle when the engine has been warmed up, but not rode. I would also be putting in the titanium ves valves, before the stock ones fail. How does it feel?

Also make sure it has had the CDI update, and check the clutch alignment, and set the engine torque stops tight, no air gap.

Pockets- The CDI has been updated. "Hang Up" only occurs after a run and not w/
blipping of throttle so I'll leave as is. Once I have my racepack installed, I'll try some diff weights. The air gap at the stop was eliminated before I took the sled out.

Thx Glenn/HPJUNKIE

Hey Pockets, does the same go for the torque stops on a 700 prox2? Should there be no gap?

How are these new helixes cut? Are they 3 straight cuts or a progressive to 2 straight cuts or two progressive cuts to the final straight cut?

It's too bad TEAM doesn't let anyone make aftermarket helixes for their clutches. It's taken WAY too long to get some selection besides the straight and partial progressive .46 cuts. They did the .46 cuts half azzed backwards for the flatlanders. I think the true progressive will be a good set-up for flatlanders. Unfortunately testing sucks at $100 a pop!

any body cut these helixes for dragracing?

EPI has a hole buntch of progressive helixes for team